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Thread: VK flat spot down low

  1. #1
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    '97 VS II Statesman 5.0L 5-Speed

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    Default VK flat spot down low

    when i put my foot down off the line in my VK, its really sluggish untill it gets to about 2500 - 3000 RPM (estimate, never really looked at the tacho to see where it kicks in) then it starts accelerating pretty hard and pushes you back into the seat (as much as a 202 can )
    is it normal to be really sluggish off the line or not?
    i've heard it could be something to do with the AFM (its EFI) or the air filter..
    any help appreciated cheers

  2. #2
    Mr_Calais's Avatar
    Mr_Calais is offline go the K's
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    MIne has the exact same problem and it also surges when you have the foot at one spot somtimes and was going to ask about this it just started on the weekend i heard it could the fuel pump or injectors but ne ideas from anyone would be a good help for both of us lol

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    craigvk's Avatar
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    This might sound strange, but after I did a minor rebuild of my trimatic, the sluggish-ness went away. The minor rebuilt consists of getting a $12 kit from Autobarn, replacing the filters and gaskets in the tranny and adjusting the band. Then refill the tranny. For some reason that fixed up my lagging problems.

    Like I will give you an example. Before the rebuild I'd put my foot down and it would cough (lag). Now I put my foot down, and it wants to do a burnout to China
    Of course the car is warmed up when trying the above.

  4. #4
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    yeah thats kind of like mine, but mine after its above a certain revrange, you can put your foot down and it will take off like normal, its only the very 1st few seconds off the line that it lags

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    Goon's Avatar
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    Did you have to remove the transmission itself? if not its sounds like something i could do even though things are running sweet, just to make it sweeter
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie-b View Post
    well i think a "headjob" would be better than stroking it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goon
    Did you have to remove the transmission itself? if not its sounds like something i could do even though things are running sweet, just to make it sweeter
    No, you don't need to remove the whole tranny. Yes Goon, I'd recommend you do it. The reason is because with Trimatic transmissions, the band needs to be adjusted over some period of time. Not sure when though. Basically the process is you buy the kit, comes with the gaskets and filter. Take the tranny pan off. (A pit helps ) Plenty of bolts here. I found it best to loosen the back half bolts a bit and then take the front bolts off and when it's done, the fluid will then start pouring out. Have a bucket to catch all the fluid It makes a big mess if you don't catch it all. Inside you'd find the tranny base and then using your manual as a guide, unbolt the strainer and replace it with the new one. With the gasket as well. Then take the servo cover off and loosen the band adjusting bolt and tighten it up to 4.5Nm, then back off exactly 5 turns. Do up the lock nut and that's done. Replace that gasket and bolt the cover up. Replace the pan gasket and bolt up the pan. I did mine up firm. There is a certain torque to do it up, but I did mine tight but not super tight. After all, the gasket is only made of cork. That's about it. Refill the tranny with about 2.3 litres. Add a bit at a time, checking the dip stick so you don't overfill the thing.
    I couldn't find a drain plug on the torque converter, so I had to do without draining that. It just means that 3/4 of the fluid still in there was older fluid.
    The Greg's manual should give some info on the tranny.
    Hope this helps

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    Oh yeah, I forgot to say. You need a 5.5mm hex head to do up the band head. When I was up at the farm, I had to go around the corner to the uncles to get one that fit. It was a bit of a swine. I had all the other sizes but not a 5.5mm hex. We used a mini click style torque wrech which worked well. Make sure you have something accurate.

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    Yeah mate - I got the exact same problem...and posted it somewhere too...I was told it could be the diff?? or the gearbox? I dunno though...It seems worse when going through roundabouts and you sorta just let it go with no acceleration for a while and let it sorta roll and then give it a boot full to beat the other cars coming towards you lol...and you just can't bloody move!! Sorta dangerous lol.

  9. #9
    16 vk boy Guest

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    i have the same slugish problem no guts throu 70 to 80 but as soon as it hits at she flys wat the f#^& is this problem

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    no mines fine through 70 - 80, and once its moving, it's just right as i take off from a standing start, it has no throttle response whatsoever, but once it gets to around 20km's it really takes off, even just granny footing it off the line you can feel when it "kicks in", i just want to know why it doesnt want to move straight off the line

  11. #11
    Majesticknights's Avatar
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    replace the plugs, and test the leads, leads can be checked with a multimeter and the maximum resistance through the lead is 12,000 ohms per foot, clean out the dizzy cap, there will be heavy buildups on the contact points and clean the end of the rotor button. this should pick her up a heap. is there a air flow meter on the efi vk???? if so clean it with carby clean, also clean the throttle body with carby clean as well. when you start it after this she wil smoke really bad for about 30 seconds to a minute and then be good as new
    cheers, chev

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    my 5 spd had the flat spot too, i worked out it was the carby, the varajet isnt the smoothest unit around, and when it opens up the secondary u get pushed back into the seat

  13. #13
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    mines auto and EFI

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