Hey Guys,
I have a VK with a stock carby 202 and a trimatic behind it.
It drives pretty good, but when you plant it, it will go fine until it goes to shift into second. When it goes to shift into second, the engine will flare like as if the transmission was in neutral and power isn't being passed through and you will have to play with the accelarator a bit to make it shift.
It is also a bit clunky with the automatic downshift at higher speeds.
This was reconditioned by the previous owner 4 years ago and my brothers HX with a stock 202 and trimatic doesn't do this. He has the original trimatic and it is perfect.
BTW, I did a service that included changing the fluid, filter and gasket, pan gasket and servo cover gasket. I didn't adjust the bands because I didn't have a torque wrench. Could we be looking at bands that require adjustment, or something else.
An ideas?
Thanks guys
Timing could be your problem with her playing up on 2nd gear, possible the accelerator being to tight or to lose.. The band must be done on the trans if you want to see improvement as ive recently learned.
Look at your timing - idle and mixer screw.
Accelerator cable.
Trans band.
Also there's another item but i forgot it's name atm, it sits on your manifold " like a small metal cylinder item with an adjustable pin that sits against your throttle.
Do you have a manifold gauge at all? if so does she sit about on 50 when this happens? between 40 and 60 .
Hi
Its a berlina so I have the tacho instead of the vacuum gauge.
I rebuilt my carby a few months ago and I am pretty sure it is all correct.
I was very thorough with this.
I can definately tell you that my timing is out. I don't have a timimg light so I've just adjusted it by driving around the street and when it pings, I retart it a bit. Very inaccurate eh?
Accelerator cable. Interesting. Do you mean that adjusting the cable would possibly put it out of adjustment with the detent switch, or is it something else.
I am going to have to adjust my bands, I am sure it will help quite a bit.
I checked the vacum line today, it is unblocked and the short pieces of rubber hose at the ends are OK. I changed the rubber hose anyway just to make sure and it is still drives the same.
Is there any way to check the vacum modulator to see if its leaking a vacum or if it is functional?
That little cylinder metal thing with the pin on the end with the green wire coming out the otherside of it, sits on top of your manifold .. "well it might, i'm thinking of a blue motor here" I've noticed pushing the pin in with decrease her idle and pulling it out will up the idle..
ps. if i could find my camera i'd post a picture, but atm im still looking for it![]()
Im sorry, but nothing comes to mind with my black motor and the metal thing.
Also, so that no one gets confused, as you know, the black motor has an EST module and the timing is unadjustable. That failed a while ago and I have put a distributor etc in from a blue motor. This is why my timing is adjustable and it is out of wack.
when you serviced transmission.. was there any metal filings in it when you opened it?
DaZ
Project: Shifty1 commences Feb 2007
The_Monk says:
im a leech
No there wasn't. There was a fine layer a grey stuff everywhere and that was also in my mothers 1993 tarago when I serviced her auto (which is all good). I just wiped it off with a rag.
on the bottom of your gear box, just above where the pan bolts on, on the rear right hand side(where the vaccum line plugs into is the unit) which reads the vaccum and tells the gearbox when to shift. I had mine replaced because it wasn't kicking down correctly. it cost me about $50 and fixed the problem
Could you please tell me what is involved with changing this vacum modulator.
Can you do it with the transmission installed, does it just unscrew etc etc.
Once again thanks
yep, with the transmission in the car. I did mine during the service, just unplug, then unscrew and replace.
although my box's symptoms were the same as yours i can't say for sure that this will fix your problem
Of course you can't say thats what the problem.
I will be looking into it though and I much appreciate your input.
I changed the vacum modulator today and it unfortunately wasn't the problem. But a new vacum modulator couldn't hurt anyway so its all good.
I will be doing the full service and adjusting the bands very soon.
However, with the clunky kickdown, I had a look at my detent switch. When the accelerator is on the floor, the pedal hardly moves the switch, but on my brothers HX, it moves it quite a distance.
Could there be an adjustment problem here where the engine is revving out too much before the kickdown happens causing it to clunk when it does.
What do you reckon?
You rip out all the EST stuff and set it up to run off a standard dizzy.
After all, it is just a standard 202 with a varajet.
It is possible that it may be the switch, but I'd be more inclined to say band slippage and or valve damage?Originally Posted by 85berlina
Often I've found, a "reconditioned" box has simply had the bands tightened and sold as is.
But if you can get a good second hand switch or a cheap new one, try that first.
I had a similar problem with my VK. when u would go to plant it, it would some times slip into nuetral and u would have to shift back into drive. so my options were to either reco the existing transmission or just replace it. So i replaced it.