Need help, Buy a standard Reco. diff "for a VC" or something like a LSD???

[DANVSUTE]

I dont know what to do???
mines about to go BANG!

[SL/ENUT]

LSD diffs are hard to find here in tassie. I would be looking at a VL diff, lot stronger than the 6 banger small Salisbury diff.

[DANVSUTE]

ok thanks, will look for a vl diff

[jd hot stuff]

Id also would have to say that a vl diff' would be one of the best options for a diff as they can handle a nice amount of punishment and power.

[DANVSUTE]

so if i was to get a VL diff it would take a lot more than the one I have now. would it have to be modified or anything to fit??
also any ideas of where to look for one and how much it would cost me??

[SL/ENUT]

You need to change the rear section of the tailshaft. The VL uses a flange, the VC uses a U bolts. You might need to get the tailshaft rebalanced as well.


I see your from Launceston, there is a couple of places, Steve Orders Autos out in Mowbray, he wrecks a lot of VLs, also Forster Street wreckers too, might have a good diff for you.
Oh and another thing, how low is the VC, what rims are you running and what width tyres too. This VL diff is a little longer than the Salisbury, might rub on the guards

[DANVSUTE]

thanks, ive been to steve orders and had a look for some stuff for it before but didnt think to look for any VLs,
it has been lowerd, but not properly. the guy that ownd it before me just chopped the springs instead of getting smaller ones. "a full car load scrapes guards." but I will have to get new shocks and springs soon anyway.
I only have 14" Centerlines and the tyres are 8-9 inches wide.

[jd hot stuff]

"a full car load scrapes guards." but I will have to get new shocks and springs soon anyway.

Man thats bad, what spring to the guy chop soft ones. The only way if you are going to chop springs is if they are heavey duty spring as it takes more for them to compres.

[DANVSUTE]

they are just the standard ones......... as they are crap.
the car isnt even really that low, its just because they were crap springs and he chopped them. "obviously I dont drive with a car load that often"

[jd hot stuff]

Well hear is a pic of my car with choped heavy duty spring in it, and the the rear end bearly moves when weight is in it.

[Nobody Actually]

well i can attest to the fact that a vl 6'er diff will hold up to a v8 vc, mines been in there now for about 6 months and doesn't look like breaking anytime soon.

it was origionally a temp fix, but since it hasn't gone pop. i ain't changing it till it does..............

[DANVSUTE]

sounds like the VL diff is what I need then, anybody know af a prics for a reco. one????

[Nobody Actually]

you shouldn't need to buy a reco one, try and find a vl (auto) that looks like it hasn't been driven into the ground and nab it

[atrail308]

easier way with the vl diff is to get the later vk tailshaft, will go straight in and its a flange fit too...

[Nobody Actually]

easier way with the vl diff is to get the later vk tailshaft, will go straight in and its a flange fit too

good point

[DANVSUTE]

so a VK tailshaft will fit straight on, "no mods" and then a VL diff will fit straight on the VK tailshaft.....

[atrail308]

this is correct!

[phat_com]

how much better are the vl diffs to the vk ones? might invest in one if there better

[SL/ENUT]

Well i'm sure the only differences between the VK and VL B/W diffs are the ratio and the length, thats about it.

[traindriver]

so no point in putting a VL diff under the VK??

[SL/ENUT]

Well what diff does your VK have now?. If it has a Salisbury diff then yeah be good to put a VL diff in. But if your VK already has a Borg Warner diff then no use replasing it with a VL.

[DANNY8]

I did that conversion to my VH. Blew 2 Salisbury 8 bolts so decided to get something stronger. I bought the VL diff and tailshaft off of a mate for $80. As it came out of an auto, and I have a manual, I needed to use the rear section of the VL tailshaft and the front section of mine. But that didn't work coz the VL tailshaft is a little bigger in diameter and the bolt holes didn't line up. So I went and got a VK EFI tailshaft for $50, used the rear section of that and it all went together with no problems.

Here where I live we have a local wrecker which mainly deals with Commodores. He charges $150 for a complete diff (drum to drum, disc to disc), and $50 for a complete tailshaft. Another wrecker which deals in most cars, was gonna charge me $325 for a VL diff.....but thanks to Spirit77 (not sure if he's a member here) I got a diff and tailshaft for $80.

[vkberlina]

The Salisbury & 78 series Borgwarner diffs are quite different diffs internally the main advantage is the Brogwarner has much thicker axels. I used to twist the splines off an 8bolt salisbury in my VK then I swapped to a 10 bolt which was much stronger. The Borgwarner is stronger again.

For the LSD diffs the VL turbo (3.45:1 ratio) or VL V8 (3.08:1 ratio) they are a 28 spline 4 pinion LSD where as the 85 VK or NA VL LSD are a 25 spline 2 pinion. The 2 pinion LSDs are pretty good and can handle a mild V8 quite ok.

The main killer of diffs are burnouts, you excessivly wear very quickly the hemisphere bearings, once they are worn it will inturn wear out the diff gears. Also hard gear changes or sudden shocks in the drive train such as dropping the clutch in a manual is the most likely cause of broken axels.

Dont forget if you change diff ratio you will need to change your speedo gear otherwise your speedo will be out.

cheers
Scott