Hi just wonting some ideas on whats the best alram and central locking would be best at a cheap price?
Have a look at Jaycar and also ebay.
i suppose a factory central locking be alright. Also there is some new ones out that aren't to bad either
For alarms well, me personally i would get one with immobiliser as well. I don't like the cheap ones. Best thing to do is go to an Autobarn or car audio store and ask them, they know there stuff.
Cheers Damien"SL/ENUT" Smith, The SL/E Fanatic!
A lucky owner of 2 SL/E Commodores, a rare VB SL/E and a 2 tone VC SL/E. Just need a VH SL/E and have the set!
No sales pitch here, but the Jaycar stuff is good.
Central locking kits are < $35
Steel mate brand alarms start at $99 and go up.
The Shadow brand immobilisor is $99. The alarm upgrade kit is another $50. The Shadow immobilisor is Australian Standards Approved.
I have a Shadow in mine, a steelmate in my brothers HX, Shadows in my two friends cars, another steelmate in my sisters car and the paging steelmate in my mothers Tarago.
Just go to Jaycar.com.au for more info.
I thought the Jaycar Enhanced steel mate $149 alarm looked not bad.
I actually used to have that alarm in my VK but I upgraded to the Shadow because I could.
The shadow is good because it is approved, so it has three immobilisation points, black wiring, no main connector on the module etc etc.
thanks for every one's imput so far, keep the ideas coming. thanks
hey please help im using a steelmate 838t just for locking at the moment my problem is within 2 mins of unlocking it lock itself..i have 1 pink wire not connected ive tried it on acc but still the same thing any ideas
The negative trigger wire probably isn't conected up correctly.
This is the blue wire and it connects to one of the door switchs.
If this is connected up incorrectly, it doesn't detect you opening the door and it will automatically rearm itself because it thinks you havent entered the vehicle.
So, connect this to the closest door switch.
BTW, the pink wire goes to the siren and the white wire without the inline fuse goes to the ACC.
Thats right,
refer to two posts above
thanks heaps for that mate...also thers red,yellow, and an orange any idea for them...
Don't you have an installation manual?
Of the two connectors, which one are theses wires connected two?
Are there any stripes on any these?
nope no manual..wires im on about r on the harness with reset switch the smaller connector....and no stripes that i can see
Last edited by figjamidhVK8t4; 27-09-2006 at 01:59 PM.
Go to the shop and tell them to give you a manual.
went to jaycar yesterday nogo on the manual also emailed steelmate themselves..
fixed the self locking but now after i lock it the alarm goes after about 20secs treid ajusting motion sensor no difference...
sorry for being a pain in the behind..
k
Check to see if the negative trigger wire is grounded when the doors are closed. If they are, then there's the problem. Use a multimeter for this.
Check to see the ACC wire is only recieving 12v when the ignition is turned on and when the engine is cranking. If it is receving a constant 12v then it will trigger the alarm.
Unplug the shock sensor and see if there is a diffrence.
Also check to see if the orange wire for the brake switch is recieving a constant 12v. If it is reciveing constant 12v, the alarm will sound. It is only supposed to recieve 12v when the brake pedal is pushed to lock the doors while driving. I find this a pain in the back side so I disconnected it.
Please see attached the wiring diagram for the 838 (If it worked)
You may have to print it, it was a bit small on my computer.
BTW, Hooch, is that a dig at myself or the crap that we sell.
thankyou been trying to find this diagram for so long and jaycar didnt ave em in stock cheers....
Last edited by figjamidhVK8t4; 27-09-2006 at 07:01 PM.
My brother has this alarm in his HX and I have the model up from it in my VK so I have the manual lying around.
.the yellow wire to engine power out circuit...is that a relay
Yes, it is a relay.
yeah i ment 1 i have to put in or is there one that i can splice into sort of thing coz im not to sure on how to hook up that part...and now alarm triggers 2mins after locking....went to coopers auto electrics and they were bout as useful as tits on a bull....
Last edited by figjamidhVK8t4; 28-09-2006 at 11:30 AM.
with the diagram it doesnt show where the first orange, and white with fuse goes to....help please
Mods-Conversion
4 Speed Manual conversion,
VB Dash,
EFI conversion,
Straight Gas,
VH seats and door trims,
5" tacho,
POD Filter,
hey man i have a cyclops alarm and imobiliser packages in my vh. there more expencive but i havent had any probs with it and my brother in law only uses cyclops in the 7 cars hes had and hasnt had a problem yet. also just use standard holden central locking from a vk or sumfin you might just need to replace the motors and you will need 2 new relays all up mine cast $460 but thats a full package it does retail for $600 but im good mates with the suppliers. that price included professional instalation new motor for passenger door 2 new relays, alarm with keyless entry, central locking, 170 bd screamer, glass sessor (for window breakage) shock sensor (if the car is hit etc.) all black wiring and the bonet and boot alarmed.