central locking installation

[bigg_vin]

hey
im currently installing central locking into the VH.

i have strong enough actuators and i am certain that all the wiring is correct.

there is quite a but of strain on the rear actuators but when the doors actually work they dont seem to struggle on any of the doors.

what happens is:
i lock all the dorrs
i connect the battery
go to the drivers door and turn the key, nothing happens.
i go to the passanger door, and sometimes, every 5 or 6 times, i lock or unlock the door, the actuator will force my key the other way, and all the other three actuators will then follow.
so if i was trying to lock the door, the actuator will force the lock open, and the other doors will open.
then, the next time directly after this that i try and lock the doors, they all lock.

i rang both jaycar and JBHIFI but none of the guys i spoke to knew anything about anything.

i have a slight feeling it might be the little control module.

does any one know if all those little modules are the same for different brands?

if i operated the locks with out the key, nothing ever happened.

any help?
thanks

[Pub247]

You could tell us what type/brand it is

[yobbo88]

i had almost the same thing but needed one to go backwards because i couldnt mount all actuators the same way check your wiring at the master actuator... any crossed wires and it sends a backwards signal making them sound like they are fighting themselves... hope that helps. it gets hard if the wires arent colour coded...

[bigg_vin]

the brand is TaiGer International. 4 door central locking kit. no remote.

there are two master actuators though.

and luckily they are colour coded.

so maybe one actuator needs to be reversed but the others dont?

[85berlina]

Hi Mate,
I actually work at Jaycar, are you using the inbuilt switches in the actuators to trigger the central locking relay or are you using external switches that mount in the middle of the locking bars inside the doors.

[bigg_vin]

hey
sorry, i guess im ignorant now, i dont understand what exactly you mean!

there are no other parts besides the actuators, the wiring and the control module. so i am guessing its inbuilt.

is that what you mean?

thanks buddy

[85berlina]

If the switches are inbuilt then I doubt that they would be playing up.

If the system was working against the key every time, then I would say that wiring from the trigger switches in the actuators are swapped around.

Because it is working every now and again, then it most likely the relay (control module) as you said before. This should be a simple unplug, plug in job like most relays.

It could even be a combination of mixed up wiring and a faulty relay so I would suggest checking both.



BTW, the reason I asked about the switches is because if you are replacing an original stock system (I'm unsure), then the original switches mount in the middle of the locking bars and these tend to play up after twenty or more years. I have had quite a bit of problems with these on various cars.

[bigg_vin]

oh, no. i did not originally have central locking.

thanks for the help.

when i did un plug the control module, with the battery power on. all the doors unlocked.

ive checked the wiring, so i guess the only other thing it could be is the control module.

do you think i will be able to buy any control module and use it?

thanks again

[85berlina]

You should be able to use any standard relay but the connectors and pinouts are probably going to be different. So, if you wanted to use another relay, you will most likely have to cut and resolder the wires.

If this is a new system you should be able to go back to where you purchased it and get it swapped.

Before you do that, can you please try to lock and unlock the doors from the inside and tell us what happens. Make sure you don't forget the drivers door.

[bigg_vin]

hey, yeah if i do that nothing happens. at all.

i found that if i gave the central locking remote outputs from the relay a negative pulse via test light, the doors unlocked and locked every time.

i am currently fitting an alarm system as well. hopefully the central locking will work via remote even if it doesnt work via the key.

with the alarm system, you will probably know this as well 85berlina, it need to be tapped into the indicators and stop lamp switch. can i justtake this from the fuses? does that make sence?

thanks

[yobbo88]

i know your questions are directed at 85berlina but a trick i came up with (im sure other people have thought of it though) is chuck the alarm onto the interior light... this makes all doors protected from opening. i didnt have time to connect to the ignition etc i would also assume at the fuse is a good a place as any along the line to pickup a surge of electricity

[daron]

the reason why it pushes ya key back is its out of adjustment fuill stop
make sure all clamps and in the corect places
eg. pull look button down pull motor down then conect clamp
ive been fitting this stuff 15 yrs and its always the same story when ppl dont do it right
its easy fixed

[bigg_vin]

so when i install it, should i open lock and open actuator then clamp together?

or lock door and puch actuator down then clamp?

the instructions say the first option, but obviously that hasnt worked....
thanks

[bigg_vin]

also, with the engine immobilizer/ignition cut out relay, i dont have a diagram to show me where the wires from the relay go....

does anyone know or are they all different?

[85berlina]

You should probably do what Daron. has said first. (I assumed that they were adjusted properly)

If you still run into problems, then it sounds like the relay is negatively triggered. My system is negatively triggered.
Make sure that the common contact on the switches in the actuator is grounded and the other two wires are connected appropriately.
If you have a dodgy earth or you have one of the other switch contacts grounded, then that would be a problem.

To test to see if the relay is negatively triggered, put a multimeter on DC volts and connect it across one trigger from the relay and an earth on the vehicle. If there is a voltage there, then it is negatively triggered becuase the switch in the actuator will gorund the trigger wire and trigger the relay. This should be done with the actuator disconnected from the relay and power is connected to the system.

To test if the contact is grounded properly, put the meter on ohms or continuity and put the meter across the common contact on the actuator and a suitable earth on the vehicle. This should be done with the actuator connected to the relay and power is connected to the system.




If the relay does turn out to be positively triggered (By what you have said, it seems very unlikely), then check you have +ve 12v at the common contact. This should be done with the actuator connected to the relay and power is connected to the system.

I know that this might be a bit to take in but these are actually quick 5 minute tests.




About the alarm, the indicator and brake wires can't be connected at the fuse. This is because it will connecting before the indicator switch and the stop light switch. This will mean that the indicator lights will not flash unless the indicator switch is switched on and the stop light wire will constantly have +ve 12v applied and the alarm will be constantly triggered. So, the wires have to be connected after the switches.
Could you please tell me what brand this alarm is.


Also about the alarm and the relay, are you talking about the immobilisor relay inside the alarm module, or an external relay that is triggered by the alarm module.

I am terrible at explaining stuff so if you don't understand something just ask me to clarify.

[85berlina]

Sorry, it posted the above twice.

[bigg_vin]

no i understand, its cool!

firstly, the central locking actuator is negetavily triggered.....

the alarm is from Jaycar... belive it or not!

its the "full feature car alarm" in the brochure. LA-9005.

im talking about the external relay that needs to be wired into the control module.

[85berlina]

The LA9005 is the exact alarm I have in my car. It is a very very good alarm when set up properly.

I can tell you that the alarm uses the brake trigger wire to tell the alarm when to lock the doors while driving. This is a security feature and it will unlock the doors when you turn the car off. I found that it was very annoying and so I never connected it. That is all that wire does so if you don't want it, then don't connect it.

If you leave the car unlocked, the alarm will beep three times telling you have left it unlocked. I also found this annoying and it can be disabled by changing a jumper inside the alarm. There are 2-3 jumpers in there for various features and if you want to disable it, then I can tell you which jumper to alter very soon.

Another thing is that the indicators will flash when the door is opened. Once again, I didn't like this. I solved this by using a relay that is triggered by the doors opening and cuts the circuit from the alarm to the indicators. When the doors are closed the circuit is restored to normal.

About the relay, the pins should be numbered on the base. Pins 85 and 86 are the coil on the relay and the alarm output to the relay is negatively triggered. So one side of the coil will go to the alarm output and the other goes to a +ve 12v source.
Pins 30 and 87 are for the normally open contacts and that should be connected so that it acts as a switch for what you are immobilising.
You can put multiple relays on the one output from the alarm which will allow you to have more immobilisation points.
The set up for the above is all from memory and I will check that soon.

Also, about the interior light thing, it is much easier to connect it directly to the back of one door switch. This is of course connecting the wire to the interior light elctrically speaking as well but I am just clarifying that.

Also, if you are near the shire in Sydney at all (I don't know) and you need a hand, I don't mind.

[bigg_vin]

im actually in melbourne, but i really appreciate the offer.

with the indicators, where should i connect the wires coming from the alarm control unit?

what is a general immobilization point? ie, where would i put the relay(s)?

dumb question i know.

but considering its a manual car, should i do the fuel pump? starter? and do i literally just cut the wire going to the device and put the relay in between? and if this is so, i would cut the negative because its negatively triggered correct?

i have already run a constant 12v source to behind the head set, so i dont think the interior light thing applies to me.

with the siren, i put a fuse inline with the 12v supply because it didnt have one, should i have?

thanks

[yobbo88]

yeah i tapped into the drivers door switch as i have all the alarm wiring in my VH in the driver kick panel... 85berlina from what you've said you work at jaycar in caringbah/taren point? if so i very well may have met you thats one of my favourite shops around. bigg_vin my siren draws power from the main unit but yours may be different.... fuses dont hurt anyone as long as it still works

[85berlina]

The interior light thing is actually for where the door trigger connects to. The interior light thing does apply. This is because the door trigger on the alarm connects to the door switches and the door switches connect to the interior light. Its not the interior light that matters, its the switches they are conencted to, the interior light was brought up before so don't get confused. Just connect to the door trigger to the back of one door switch.

With the indicator lights, the trigger wires just need to connect anywhere after the indicator switch. Where to connect to after the switch totally depends on where the alarm module is located. In a 1998 corolla I did an installation in, I mounted the module behind the drivers side kickpanel right next to the drivers right hand foot. In this case I connected the wires directly after the switch in the steering column. In my car, the module is mounted behind the passengers side kick panel. In a VK (Unsure about a VH) the main wiring loom passes through the firewall on the passengers side so the wires for the indicators pass through that loom. So this is the closest place and I made the connection here.

Imobilisation points are places where the relay immobilises a certain system by breaking the power input into the device. In my VK, which is a stock standard berlina with a carby and the computer has been removed, I can only immobilise the ignition and the starter motor. If you have an electric fuel pump, then that can be immobilsed or any ECUs if they have a disable wire (Be careful with ECUs).
You do literally cut the wire and put the relay in place. Don't ever cut the ground wire and immobilise that because then you will get wierd ground loops etc. Always cut the 12v input to the device. Remember that a relay is actually a switch so it is switching the device off to imobilise it.

With the siren, a fuse isn't necessary but if you have one in and it doesn't blow when the siren is on, it will still function fine. However, it is a backup battery siren that you have. This is the better type of siren to have because with the standard sirens, a thief just has to open the bonnet and cut the wires. If they do this with your siren, it will sound. It sounds when triggered from the alarm or when 12v power is removed. So, if the fuse blows, it will diconnect power from the siren and the siren will sound. You will have to pop the bonnet and put the key in the back of the siren and turn it off. This would happen at the most inconveniant time of course such as 1 in the morning.

[85berlina]

Yeah I might have seen you.

I am a casual, as I am studying at year 12, and I work weekends. If you have seen me, I am the guy with red hair.

Of course next year when I leave and get an electrical apprenticeship somewhere like Hannanprint, Quenos or Energy Australia then I'm out of Jaycar.

[yobbo88]

yeah definately seen you i was in the other day talkin to one of the older guys about speaker pods and bought a multimeter... there is a damn good chance you wont remember this and i understand i work at retravision around the corner full time and see so many faces its all a blur. and yeah to clarify my understanding when i say interior light im referring to the circuit that the interior light is on... to stop thieves getting to your siren in the first place put a switch on the hood so when it opens off the alarm goes... ive already caught 1 guy opening my hood and was so happy i went to the effort. my remote goes off when the alarm goes off. needless to say the man wasnt a happy camper when me and 4 other guys came out to greet him

[bigg_vin]

ok, thanks for that.

now, one last question..... i hope!

i need to run the door trigger, and bonnet trigger, and boot trigger, to the alarm module.

which wire from the alarm module do i use for this?

ans the wire coming out of the alarm module saying ACC, im guessing has to go to ignition power? why?

thats two questions already.

lets go for a third....
why do i only need to connect the door trigger to one door? and not all four?
thanks again

[85berlina]

Connect the door, bonnet and boot trigger to the wire labelled 'to negative trigger(door)' in the manual.
You only need to conect it to one door switch because the four door switches are all connected together so connecting the trigger to one switch is the same as connecting it to all four. You of course need to connect this trigger wire to the boot light switch and the bonnet switch. This is because they aren't connected to the same circuit as the door switches. You also need to install the bonnet switch which comes with the alarm package.

The ACC trigger is supposed to connect to a 12v source that is at 12v when the ignition is on. This 12v source MUST not drop down to zero volts when the engine cranks. This is very important to do because the alarm will not unimmobilise the car even when the alarm is deactivated until it senses that you want to turn it on.

Also, Yobbo88, don't forget to say Hi when you are in next.