Hey All
Asking more questions once again![]()
Okay this time, i've been driving my ride for a few days now and have noticed a clunk sound when a low down under 20k like my auto's going back in first gear, only go's clunk when i slow down under 20k! You can feel it when shes first moving about but after 30min or so its not so bad..
I havent checked my trans fuild which i will do in the morning and i'm still to service my gearbox, would fluid getting clogged in the old trans filter cause this?
When doing an oil change does it drain the diff oil? do u have to refill that on it's own? i've read my book and now the details on how to check etc..
But i've also noticed my diff plug bolt is a bit rusted for its time.. should i remove it? and what with? should i replace it?
Cheers![]()
The clunk could possibly be uni joints, or possibly the centre bearing in the tailshaft needs replacing.
To drain the diff oil u have to take the back plate off. I think there's about 10 bolts holding it on, just undo all those, then use a flathead screwdriving or something smilar to lever the backplate off......but it can be messy, so make sure u have a bucket or sumfin under it ready. To top it back up u must first clean all the old gasket off (or silicone, depending on wat was used last time lol) then apply another gasket, then put all the bolts back in and do them up tight. Then just remove the bolt in the backplate (as u say its rusted a bit, try using a rattle gun if u have access to one...or just use a breaker bar with a lot of force), pour your oil in until its level with the bolt, then put the bolt back in.
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With the salisbury diffs its been a while since I have worked on one, but you should just need to remove the bottom centre bolt and the oil will drain through the bolt hole.
As for the diff plug it shouldnt be that tight you need a rattle gub to remove it. Personally I would use a 1/2" ratchet & socket and it should undo pretty easy. You could spray it with inox or WD40 etc before you try removing it.
The rest as VHPirie said
cheers
Scott
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To drain the diff oil, you can take the back of it off or undo the plug and use a vacuum pump to take the old oil out and then fill it up again. If you want to replace the bolt, you would need to take the bolt to a fastners joint and get them to match it up. Get a high tensile steel one. If you took the back cover off the diff housing, you'll need to replace the gasket too. Too much work to just change the oil. Don't take it off unless you need to change the gasket due to an oil leak.
When you fill it up, fill it to just below the filler hole. You can use a toothpick to poke in the hole and when you get fluid on it, it's about right. Your Gregory's book will give you an idea how much fluid it takes.
I had a similar clunk on another car and I always thought it was a buggered uni joint. Never fixed it though. I would not recommend you replace the uni yourself unless you know what you are doing. They can be quite tricky.
The transmission kit I described to you a while back wouldn't fix any major problems like this. It's just a routine service that you do every 40K or so. The band is usually adjusted for the right 'timing' of your transmission I suppose. It doesn't make major improvements, just like an untimed motor won't make it not run.
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Cheers guys, i'll take a look at it this week sometime if i can
By any chance will a stuck accel pedal casue it to clunk as it slows down? eg. holding revs
I noticed tonight my dash cover was against my pedal just abit, then a pushed it back into place so the pedal was free & the clunk wasnt even that bad on slow down..
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