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Thread: Fuel pump and battery

  1. #1
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    Default Fuel pump and battery

    Hey peoples,

    i have 2 problems which may be related hence the one thread.....

    firstly, my holley blue fuel pump sometime is really loud and sometime is not..... most of the time, it is.
    By loud, i mean it can be heard over my ehaust system, inside and outside the car. as far as i have noticed, it goes from loud to soft when ever it feels like it, and not when i touch anything specific in the car.

    secondly, my battery, or alternator, i think, if wrecked....
    i need to push start my car cos the battery is always so dead..... even if i have had the car running for a while, then switch it off, and try start it straight away, it is completely dead. the voltage at the abttery reads 11V when nothing is on, 7V when trying to crank, and 13V when charging.....

    if anyone can help my two problems, i would be very apreciative!

    cheers
    Have a good one
    .............Vincent.............

  2. #2
    SL/ENUT's Avatar
    SL/ENUT is offline The SL/E Fanatic!
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    Thats the problem with Holley blue fuel pumps, they all do it!. Perhaps put some rubber around it and it might make it quiet.
    The battery problem, i reckon its the alternator, these can take all the power out of a battery if its stuffed. The problem could be worn brushes, or diode inside cactus.
    Cheers Damien"SL/ENUT" Smith, The SL/E Fanatic!
    A lucky owner of 2 SL/E Commodores, a rare VB SL/E and a 2 tone VC SL/E. Just need a VH SL/E and have the set!

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    I'd say battery, as its giving a higher reading when charging. That is if by charging you mean the car is running and not on a battery charger.
    WILL THE VK EVER MAKE IT BACK ON THE ROAD

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    The fuel pump sounds like it's breaking down. Maybe get a rebuild kit for it. I know you can for standard Holden fuel pumps.

    As for the battery/alternator problem. Speaking from experience... Disconnect the lead from the alternator to the battery at the battery. Run the car and check the voltage at the alternator lead. It must measure 14-14.4 volts. Anything up to say about 15 volt is ok. Anything less than 13.5 volts there is something wrong with your alternator. The brushes would likely need replacing. The battery electrolite should be checked to make sure the fluid is full. If it isn't, top it up and put it on an automatic charger. Might take almost a day to charge, but the battery sounds a bit crap i.e. dead.

    Check all the leads in the engine bay. Earth, starter and alternator plus your existing positive loom. If any look dodgy like having electrical tape wound on them or frayed wiring, GET RID OF IT! Replace it with new wiring. Use good battery lugs, solder and heatshrink. Avoid electrical tape.

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    thanks for the help people.

    ive done a little more investigating, and have found that when im in accessories/start, the battery voltage is fine, still at 11.3V, but as soon as i try and crank, the voltage drops to 3V......

    ive checked the wiring, and it seems fine.....

    does anyone know what could cause this?
    cheers
    Have a good one
    .............Vincent.............

  6. #6
    Goon's Avatar
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    What accessorys do u have added on?

    What brand of battery? heavy duty? etc..

    I've heard batterys like century only last 6 months...
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie-b View Post
    well i think a "headjob" would be better than stroking it?

  7. #7
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    its literally a brand new battery, a heavy duty, 550CCA, exide brand battery...

    is it possible it is the starter motor? ive heard in some cases that when the started sh$ts itself, it draws a way too high current when cranking?

    cheers
    Have a good one
    .............Vincent.............

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    The alternator is what charges your battery.

    Do u have any additonal 12v items that turn on while u start her? they could be draining power..

    To test the starter motor, take her outand grab another battery, connect the postive to the right place eg.. where the postive lead normaly go's .. then rub the negative on the side of the starter motor and see how it spins.

    Are your battery leads new? i replaced my 20+yr old Negative battery lead with a new one and got a way better connection.

    sometimes u can be surprised and find that the battery was faulty to begin with.. even though its new
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie-b View Post
    well i think a "headjob" would be better than stroking it?

  9. #9
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    ok your battery voltage when charging (easiest way to tell is get a multi meter from dick smiths for like $14 and put it on the battery but so you can see it when you crank and start the car rev it to about 1500 ish and hold it there then see what the voltage is.
    per all of the electrical stuff in my VK ive done the VN alt conversion on mine i can supply some pics and info if ya want so anyway i now run an 85amp alt

    so yeah the output voltage when charging (checking with a multi meter at the battery) should be close to 14.4v if its not then i would be surprised if your alt isnt on its way out.

  10. #10
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    ive checked the voltage when charging, its 13.6V.....

    which is low, but would still be charging the battery....

    cheers
    Have a good one
    .............Vincent.............

  11. #11
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    You dont have an AMP gauge do u ? those have been the casue of some battery problems i used to have in a cruiser and that baby had duel batterys.

    Id check all your battery wiring, maybe replace it again then possible try replacing your alternator and see what happens.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie-b View Post
    well i think a "headjob" would be better than stroking it?

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    Make sure if you getting another alt put a Bosh in the Lucus ones are hopeless. Happen to my VH 202 had a Lucus one in it had so many problems like flat batts ect rebuild a Bosh one no problems ever again. Not sure if they use a lucus one in a V8 but i am guessing yes

    See how you go with that

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