Welch plug problems

[Warren Noble]

I am having major problems trying to remove old welch plugs and replace them on a V8 253 (VB). There was only one rusted through but I'd like to replace all on that side if I can figure out how to get them in, getting the one out was a nightmare! There is not enough room in there to swing a hammer more than an inch or so, so I am trying to source a small hydraulic jack to push them in with. Can anyone help me with these questions:

(1) The welch plugs I have to install have 1 5/8" writtem on them, is that the correct size? Am I having trouble because they are too big? They seem exactly the same as the one I removed.

(2) What is the most effective way to remove them? I've been using a large blunt screwdriver, hitting it on the side at the top, trying to turn it around. It worked but wasn't very easy.

(3) Is there another way to go about getting them in other than a hydraulic jack? (or porta-power) Upon installation, if the top of the plug is level with the block is that far enough in, or do they absolutely have to be inset the 1-2mm the originals are?

Any help would be much appreciated, thanks in advance..

[SL/ENUT]

Have you undone the engine mounts at all?. When i did mine on a 308/VB, i had to undo one side engine mount and extractors, jack that side up for room and then proceded to take all welch plugs out.
I used a flat blade screw driver, knockometer(hammer), various pliers and muilti grips. I hit the plugs until the top moved in and the bottom moved out. Then squeezed, pulled and swore a lot until they came out.

I don't know if the 1 5/8" is the size, been 6 years ago since i did it. Anyway its usually tight due to head stud sealant used to seal them.

[slovkcalais]

hey mate. yes 1 5/8" is the correct size. The best way to remove them is to hit one side so that they turn side ways in the hole. then a pin punch and tap or leaver them out or even multigrips will do the job. make sure u use some sort of sealant whe[B]n u re fit the new ones. u must use a socket or some sort of drift and only hit on the outer lip of the plug as they are a type of crush plug. u will notice a chamferd lip in the hole of the block the top of the welsch plug should sit flush withthe inner most part of the recess. good luck. oh yeah a jack might not b the best idea as u might crack ur block.

[Warren Noble]

Thanks for your replies guys. Are these things not the worst invention of all time? You would think they would at least make them out of Stainless Steel!?!!?!!!!

Yes the engine mount and extractors are out of the way, so is the A/C and sway bar for more room but there is still no way that i can get a good swing at it in a straight line. There is barely enough room in there for the head of the hammer. I can jack up and lower the engine but that helps very little.

SL/ENUT - thanks for the tips for removal, how did you get the new ones in? I can barely hit it hard enough to make it stay there without holding it with my fingers. The hammer wont work side on because of the shape of the block, I tried a block of wood and a jimmy bar levering off the engine mount, but I broke the block of wood and couldn't hit it hard enough even to start it off. Its driving me crazy~!~!!~!!!!~!~!~!!~ aarrrrrrrrrhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

[SL/ENUT]

Ahhhh to put the new ones in, i had a lot of trouble. I had my car sitting on jack stands BTW. I used the normal jacking points to sit the jack stands on.

I put the engine mounts back onto the engine K frame, took my M21 shifter out then took the four bolts that hold the engine K frame to the body off.

Used a trolley jack to lower the engine down far enough for room to replace the welch plugs. I sat the engine K frame onto some big blocks of wood. I think i took off the struts onto the K frame as well.

Then with the new welch plugs, i put on some head stud sealant around the edge then pushed the plug in as far as i could. Then grabbed an old piece of wood that coves the lips of the plugs then tapped the welch in to far as it will go.

If i did this again, i would take the whole motor out, far easier to do!

[Smitty]

If i did this again, i would take the whole motor out, far easier to do!

you should
coz you forgot the 2 in the back of the block....

Damo

if one goes..the whole lot should be done
either in stainless or brass

just buy a kit which comes with all the right sizes and qty


hth

Smitty

[Warren Noble]

I figured that taking the engine out would be the best option, just didn't want to. Its a $3 part that takes $1000 in labour to install! What a stupid idea they are, they should have put stainless ones in at the factory... but of coursev that would be too expensive for a multinational company.

I made a few enquiries about porta-power mini hydraulic rams and found that I can buy a cheap model for about the same as I can hire one from a hire shop. Guna give that a go and if I crack the block then I'm guna douse the whole thing in avgas, stand back and throw matches.

Thanks again for everyone's input. I will post my success or bonnfire when complete.