VK 202 no Spark...........

[rx98liberty]

Ok I have just finished building a black 202 full of all sorts of goodies including a procomp distributer and coil. The only problem is I have read the blue black dissy's and stuff but still have had no joy. My first question is where is the EST module? Also if I'm changing to a electronic dissy how do I wire up. Do I run a new power wire to the coil? I have basicall wire it up the same way as it is stock but have added the pos and neg of the distributor to the coil. Is this right PLEASE HELP ME.

[rx98liberty]

Also it is auto and the box I have used has no spot for the crank angle sensor on top. Will this not matter when the EST is removed?

[Pub247]

If you want electronic setup you do not need the est module or the crank angle sensor. Been a while since i looked at the wiring for the electric and i got rid of my VH and my car manual a while ago. but yes 1 wire goes to the negative coil and the other i believe the other goes to pink ignition (+ coil is the same).
Someone else may be able to verify if that is correct

[rx98liberty]

Do I take out the est module? I have wired it up as follows. Pink wire from ignition (original loom) and pink wire from distributor on positive and brown wire from original loom to negative along with the green wire for the distributer to the neg side of coil. I still have the est connected. Any help.

[Pub247]

yeah when i blew up my est unit in vk my i just put in a electric dissy and didnt bother touching it. But i'd just unplug to be safe

[rx98liberty]

ok then. I will do that but does anyone know how to wire it. Do I run a separate power wire to the coil?

[DANNY8]

I'm pretty sure u have it wired correct....goin to pull the coil and dizzy out in a sec to put new wires and terminals on it, so I'll let ya know.

[rx98liberty]

that would be great

[DANNY8]

On PEAKN6, the positive post on the coil has the thick pink wire from the ignition, and a smaller pink wire going to the dizzy. The negative side has the green wire for the dizzy, a black wire for the tachomatric relay and computer (which urs shouldn't have if it's carby), a wire for the tacho (which again urs might not have), and another unknown black wire which I'm not sure where it leads.

[rx98liberty]

I have tried two different coils but I am not getting any spark from either coil. Any ideas.

[DANNY8]

Maybe chuck a test light or multimeter on the positive post, and make sure it gets power when u turn the key. If there's no power u prolly have the wrong wire going to it, or there's sumfin wrong with ur ignition wire...follow it back and see wat ya find.

Not sure about how it earths out, I guess it earth's from the bracket, but the negative post ain't connected directly to the earth. Found that out 2day coz when I soldered up a small loom to go from the dizzy module to the coil posts, I added a wire to go from the negative post to the bracket to give it a better earth....then realised the tacho stopped working, so removed the wire and it worked again...so I guess if the negative post on the coil was a proper earth then why wouldn't the tacho signal just earth out....so yeah that's wat I learnt 2day

But yeah if you've tried 2 coils with no success I'd be looking at the pink ignition wire to see if it's the right one and make sure it's connected properly under the dash. The coils u tried, do u know if they are good ones?

Also....if the positive post on the coil gets power when the ignition is turned on, try putting the testlight or multimeter on the bit where the lead clips on, if u don't get power there I guess the coil could be stuffed.

You could also put the timing light onto the lead which goes from the dizzy to the coil, just incase the power gets to the dizzy but stops there.....oh and I also found out 2day the bit on the timing light which goes around the plug has a certain way it has to go on...I use to put it on which ever way I was holding it....I always thought I had a dodgy timing light coz sometimes it wouldn't work haha.

[Wrayza]

You won't find an earth on the negative terminal at the coil, the coil is sent a negative pulse (saw tooth waveform) from the dizzy. You can check the ignition (positive) terminal of the coil by switching your ignition on and using a multimeter set to VDC (might be labeled -V) between the ignition terminal and an earth on the chassis or the negative battery terminal.

If you've got +12v at the coil then make sure there is a good +12v and ground at the dizzy and check the wiring in between. Maybe even open the cap and clean the contact points and the hall effect sensor (or however those dizzy's create the pulse), a can of contact cleaner never hurts.

Failing all that, if you have those voltages where they should be, it might be the ECU. I've got a working one that came out of my calais if your desperate. Goodluck

[Rossco]

Check back over your loom to the connectors. Sometimes the circuit breaks in there. I've had to jump over the connectors to get power. The pro comp dizzy on our 308 VK wants a full 12 volts. We had to put a relay on the ignition circuit as the starter motor sometimes pinched too much voltage. Some ignitions only deliver around 9 volts so something has to give. I had a home visit auto electrician do the job for $80. That included finding a break in a circuit as well. Good luck

[rx98liberty]

for some stupid reason i'm getting 13 volts out of my coil to the distributor cap. Stupid bloody car.

[Wrayza]

Don't go putting your meter on the coil's HV post, it wont last very long...

You might be getting 13v if your coil has a constant ground instead of the pulse from the dizzy. Those coils are like a transformer but work slightly differently. When they are energized the primary winding inside produces a magnetic field and when you remove power that field collapses and induces a current into the secondary winding (this is your 5,000v or whatever they make).

So the 13v makes it sound like there is a constant ground and thats some strange leakage thing happening. Really when the motor isn't running there shouldn't be any voltage leaving the coil.

[DANNY8]

That's wierd coz I'm 99% sure if I put the multimeter on the positive battery terminal, and the other end on the negative side of the coil, it shows around the 12v mark....so r u saying that sumfin is wrong?

[henryvc]

any one got a VC - VK wiring diagram?

thankyou.

[commsirac]

That's wierd coz I'm 99% sure if I put the multimeter on the positive battery terminal, and the other end on the negative side of the coil, it shows around the 12v mark....so r u saying that sumfin is wrong?

It depends on whether the engine is running or if you have the ignition turned on. The distributor routinely provides a path to ground to make the coil function with the engine running. When the engine is stopped there should be no path to ground from the -ve of the coil with the ignition on(with an electronic ignition.....can be with points if the points are closed when the engine stops) Hence there should be no difference in voltage between the +ve and -ve sides of the coil, they should both be at battery voltage if the ignition is turned on. If there is a difference it indicates that somehow the negative of the coil is connected to ground, could be a faulty distributor module

With the engine running, would expect to see the -ve terminal at slightly lower voltage than the +ve terminal, depends what you measure it with as it is quickly oscillating between 0 and 12V with each spark.

[Penrod]

As far as i can tell from looking at my own car and comparing to my manual for the EST system the basic power wiring should be there. Its just a matter of disconecting the EST module and hooking up the Electronic dizzy the right way.

Are you entirely sure you have the correct distributer? One time i blew the drive gear on my VK, so i got a lift home and took the elec dizzy off my 186 that i coverted. It was new and i thought it would be good. I could not get it to run. I checked the power and wireing till i nearly went mad. I could find no fault, it just had no spark. I shot down to the wrecker and grabed a dizzy out of an EFI VK they had. Put it in, hooked it up the same way and it started. The distributers looked the same. But must have been different internaly.