Hey guyz, I only today realised that the button is the glovebox is for the boot release. So when I pushed it I expected the boot to pop open, I was wrong to think that it would actually work aye, lol. It sounds as if something has been disconnected, coz I can hear a noise from the boot when I push it, but it doesn't seem to be releasing anything. Is there something I have to reconnect? Any suggestions?
Thanks, Kurt
Have you tried turn your accessory switch( the ignition switch but turn backward) on when pressing the button?. I got to this this in my SL/E.
Cheers Damien"SL/ENUT" Smith, The SL/E Fanatic!
A lucky owner of 2 SL/E Commodores, a rare VB SL/E and a 2 tone VC SL/E. Just need a VH SL/E and have the set!
Ok if you can hear the solenoid working ie a clunk sort of sound 2 possible problems.
1. the link wire from the solenoid to the lock asm could have become detached, you may need to reconnect, attached diagram should help
2. More common fault with them the lock assembly wears over time and works a notch into it, when the lock is dirt and not lubricated it makes the problem more noticeable.
Temporary fix is to remove the Lock Asm clean & lube and replace it may last for a while. Else go to holden and order a new lock asm. Its part number was 9279093 and was superseeded by 09279093 just the leading 0.
When you replace the lock make sure it is well lubed it will make it last another 20 or so years
The solenoid asm against popular belief is generally ok, the part number was 92015643 and now 92014666 but if no longer available from holden.
cheers
Scott
same problem here.... mine works on and off.. get some wd 40 and flood the thing from inside the boot and it.. itll work for about 2-3 weeks. and then start doing it again.. then just do it again.
Boot popper should work at all times regardless of key position.
Does it go clunk-clunk, but not pop? If so, try starting the car, and see if it pops now. If so, the solenoid is simply too weak, or there is too much voltage drop between the battery & the solenoid.
This was a common prob early on in VK life (just when they were out of warranty too!).
The usual trick was to remove one of the bolts holding the solenoid in, and angle it towards the lock a bit more.
This often gave the solenoid enough chance to get a "run-up" and enough force behind it to pop the boot.
I was wondering if the lock assy(redbox) differs in part number.
Ive got a std tpye key set up atm and want to fit the elec version instead.
I have the solenoid already(greenbox) but was unsure on the bluebox parts.
My latch mechanisim doesnt have the provision for the solenoid to attatch to.
Was there different versions of the latch?
i had the same problem in mine, made all the noises like it would work but didn't, got into the boot lid and took out the actual assembley, took it all apart cleaned it and then slid the assembly further back on the screws when i put it back on, needless to say boot opens now and has for a good 6 months
I had this problem also. I found that the cable was too long after it had been pulled though both eyelets and catching on the boot lid itself.
Hey, just had to fix similar problem with my VH boot solenoid. Check the tension in the rod runnng from the solenoid to the latch. if it's too loose or too tight, it won't function properly. I used to think the solenoid purely pulled the release but it actually throws it out so it needs a little bit of slack. Hope this helps.