carby to efi?

[hellsvk]

hey guys
ive got the opportunity to pick up a efi 202
just wondering what is involved in putting one into my vk
does it just bolt straight up??
and also what would be involved with the wiring
thanks daniel.

[starfire vc]

engine and all mechanical parts will bolt up the same...of course your goin to need to install all the related efi parts..eg fuel pump,computer..auto leccy can/ should be able to wire it preety cheap...it was 600 bucks to wire up an rb20 to going in a vh when i was considering doing that swap..and theres alot more invloved in that swap

[DANNY8]

The wiring is **** easy. Ya just need an EFI loom from an injected VK. Ya also need to put an EFI fuel tank in, run a return fuel line.....and yeah that's pretty much it. Drop the donk in, do the wiring, and get the fuel system sorted. We've done the conversion on a VH.

We have a full EFI 'kit' for sale for $150 if ur interested....it comes with the following...plus a few extra's which I can't remember.....but it's all the EFI gear you'll need for the conversion.

- 2x EFI intake manifolds.
- 2x throttle bodys.
- 2x fuel rails.
- 2x sets of std injectors.
- 2x tachometric relays (these things aren't cheap! Wreckers normally sell them for about $60-$80 EACH if they realise wat they are!)
- Various fuel lines, all which are needed for the conversion including the return fuel line which goes to the tank.
- EFI fuel tank, this has the return fuel line spout thingo...pretty much where the return fuel line connects to.
- 2x EFI wiring looms.
- EFI computer.
- AFM.
- Fuel pump, filter and bracket.

[delcowizzid]

or do a delco ecu conversion like sammy did and ditch the flap style airflow meter

[immortality]

or do a delco ecu conversion like sammy did and ditch the flap style airflow meter

will be interesting to see what sort of power/economy sammy gets once it's fully tuned. 202/3.3 wasn't a bad motor to begin with

[delcowizzid]

power and economy got better straight away and he just turned on lean cruise so it should get even better.

[greenfoam]

Last time I talked to sammy he was still about a 1litre/100 away from an injected 5 litre and several litres away from a V6 VN, But maybe the Torana isn't as slippery through the air as a VN

[hellsvk]

hey guys im not sure if im going to worry about it
im only 17 even tho my uncle is a mechanic.ive only got around 500 to spend including the motor
im not sure if its worth it?

[mattw]

If you could pick it up for free then go for it. I used to have a few 202 motors sitting around with efi gear with them and in the end I sold it for scrap metal as they wern't worth anything. I'm not saying that a 202 carb or efi is a crap motor, it's just not actually worth anything.

[hellsvk]

yeh i can get a reco one for 250, then i have 500 left over
but also when i drive the car for 10-15 minutes, it alwayz wants to stall, so when im at the traffic lights i have to put it in neutral and rev it so it doesnt stall then put it into first then drive off, im thinking it could be the brake booster ?
any help would be appreciated
thanks daniel

[mattw]

Yeah good point about the brake booster. To make the car stall with the foot on the brake, there would have to be severe vacuum loss meaning the brake booster would have to have a massive leake to take great vacuum away from the motor. Probably unlikely. I had a brake booster with a split diaphragm once and it caused minor motor shudder but no too much. Your problem could be ignition timing too retarded or something up with the carburettor. I'd also check manifold vacuum to see if it's normal.

[hellsvk]

yeah, the est is a piece of **** anyway

[mattw]

If you could get a distributor out of a VK efi or VH then put that in and avoid the est. Might work better but it's probably not the est. They usually would completely just pack up.

[PEAKN6]

yeh i can get a reco one for 250, then i have 500 left over
but also when i drive the car for 10-15 minutes, it alwayz wants to stall, so when im at the traffic lights i have to put it in neutral and rev it so it doesnt stall then put it into first then drive off, im thinking it could be the brake booster ?
any help would be appreciated
thanks daniel

i dont think the booster would be the problem these motors can run with almost all the vacuum hose disconnected, i would suggest checking/tweaking ur idle screw, coz the first 10-15 mins of driving would more than likely have the auto choke on which is preventing it from stalling.

the choke is only on till the motor warms up then it turns off and the idle screw is left to keep it idling, so if its set too low than the throttle isnt open enough to keep idling.

hope this helps