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Thread: VK ignition timing probs

  1. #1
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    VK 202 EFI

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    Default VK ignition timing probs

    Hows it goin, just a little question, I've got a VK with the black EFI 202 engine and its not kickin over, the starter turns, plenty of fuel, powerz gettin to the sparkies but she aint kickin over. The voltameter is showing below 12V too.
    I think it might be the timer needing to be reset and the fuel pipe for the injector has a low pressure when I press the release valve.
    I also looked at the throttle body and a little bitta fluid leaked out.

    Anyone know what the prob might be?

  2. #2
    Tree cutter's Avatar
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    It could be a blocked fuel filter or faulty fuel pump. Try to undo the fuel line somewhere and sit a container under the fuel line then turn on the ignition switch to see if there is any fuel coming out

  3. #3
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    Cheers mate. I'll have a look and I have changed the filter.
    I did replace all the main fuses and now I can hear the fuel
    pump run when I turn the ignition.

    Me mate said that maybe the timing needs to be reset
    because it backfires the same way as it did when the
    sparkie leads were in the wrong order. Could be the wrong
    injector going at the wrong time.

    Distributer might be out by rotation if you
    know what I mean.

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    Not enough fuel will make it backfire too, but it could be a timing problem. It might be an idea to check to see if the rotor is actually turning when you wind the engine over because distributor gears and cam gears have been known to break.
    I still think it is a fuel problem by the way you say it has low pressure at the fuel rail.It could be a fuel pressure regulator problem letting most of the fuel run back to tank so try pinching the return line with a pair of vice grips so it is partly closed to see if you get more fuel pressure.

  5. #5
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    The distrutor is turning and I can feel the possible 10000 volts from the leads by hand.
    I did recently look at the throttle body, Could a fault in this cause the sparkies to lack
    the required charge to ignite the fuel/air mixture?

    From my observations I have noticed that maybe the timing is out
    say that the first stroke of one cylinder was the F/A intake and that the
    injector did not trigger during this stroke but did on the second stroke.

    I just need to know how to reset the timing for the Electronic Fuel Injection system
    because maybe the injector is triggered off when the inlet valve is closed.
    I could smell unburnt fuel when trying to start her up too.

    Any help mate for the reset of the EFI ?

  6. #6
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    I've just checked the regulator and it has a reading of 11.1 volts

    Could this be whats stoppin her from kickin over?

  7. #7
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    What regulator had 11.1 volts? Im assuming the fuel regulator?

    You keep mentioning "reset the timing", do you realise theres no one you just reset the timing, you have to remove the dissy, wind the engine over to TDC reinstall dissy at TDC, then time it up to 12 degrees (I think its 12) using a timing light.

    Is the battery fully charged, most likely unrelated but its a good thing to check when you start getting problems.

    Where are you located?

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    now this is going back a bit in my memory as i havent worked on a holden six for awhile till now, but to check timinig is about right i remove the frist spark plug then remove dizzy cap and locate the little mark on the casing then get someone to crank the motor while u put ur thumb over no 1 cylinder while and it should push ur thumb off with the pressure while doing this watch the rotor button it should be in time while passing the timing mark pushing ur thumb off if not turn the dizzy till it is.. now put it all back together and but leave the dizzy loose a bit, crank it again and while cranking move the dizzy back n forth slightly till it finally kicks
    then once its running chuck a timing light on it..


    hope that makes sense to you,

  9. #9
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    This regulator is located on the right tyre frame in the engine bay right next to the battery, a lead runs from the live terminal on the battery to the left terminal on the regulator.

    It's giving the same voltage reading as that on the voltameter on the instrument panel.

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