VK 3.3 charge / lighting issue part 2 plus EST issues.

[gs750]

Ok, problem 1:

Ive rewired the headlights through a seperate set of 40 amp relays with dual pole outputs (one for lowbeam and one for highbeam)

I noticed that after doing so, my alternator was sometimes showing +13v and some times it was showing +16v, so I replaced my regulator with a newie.

The problem is now that after about 30 mins of driving at night, my headlights dont seem to be as effective (dim), the dash lights are very dim, and the voltage shows as about 11V.

If turned off, The vehicle starts immediately.

any ideas??



Problem 2: Having only just purchased this vehicle recently, and after checking certain issues out, and sorting them out, Ive noticed that most of the electrical wiring is "chopped"

This includes some of the est system circuits.
The throttle position switch is missing, the aircon doesnt work at all, and the temp guage (even with brand new sender) shows "boiling" when cold if the vehicle is on a slight incline.

I installed an aftermarket temp sender in the block and it shows temp as being 110c when normal running temp. (new thermostat, radiator cap)

Is that normal?


Also the varajet carby, which has just been "kitted" stalls at low speed when turning right. Float level checked, idle passages checked.

any ideas?


Plus, what should average fuel consumption be on these VK Auto wagons??


Thanks!

[vkberlina]

Ok lighting, pretty easy you need a higher amp alternator you probably have a 35a which from memory was the standard on the VK. I would suggest you replace it with at least a 55amp alternator.
Work out prior to buying one a few things, firstly if oyur going to run fog or driving lights ever, convert to EFI, put in an after market stereo. If so I would really consider something higher. I had a 85 amp on my 202 which was ok. I will be putting a 120amp on my 5L eventually.
I wouldnt worry about the EST as long as its running an electronic dizzy, if not get one.

I have complete VK commodore wiring diagrams so you can start tracing wiring faults, but with your aircon, there is a pressure sensor either on the receiver dryer or on the back of the pump which can fail.There are a few other posibilities like termostat for the aircon, or your dash controls.
One way to check is set your aircon to on and see in the front part (clutch) of the aircon pully is turning, if not could be as simple as a regas or something more serious. I have generally left it up to the aircon guy to trouble shoot, if its wiring or parts replacement i do it then get him to gass it up.

Your temp guage could be faulty but more likely it is a bad earth or poor connection. For starters un plug your main engine connectors between the brake booster and the engine. Give the connectors a really good clean. If this doesnt work pull the temp sender out of the head, its on the sparkplug side of the head at the rear, clean the thread with a tap and put the sender back in. also make sure the sender wire isnt shorting out to earth.
The other possibility could be is your car has a bad earth not uncommon on VK commodores, you should have an earth on the Passengers side of the engine block to the body and up to the battery.

What speed if the engine idling at in neutral?
Does it stall when cold or only when warm?
It should idle at 850rpm +/- 25rpm. Make sure you check this when the engine is warmed up.


Fuel consumption will vary Im getting between in a carbie 202 sedan 55L tank 350-450km around town with about 40% spirited driving. On a trip (freeway) I get 400-550km depending on engine RPM on the freeway. The engine does have a fairly agressive cam & ported head.

cheers
Scott