Anyone know the name/number of those ghey little blue clips in the doors?
Managed to break two taking off the one trimso wana replace them!
Hey hey,
Thanks for the awesome write up.
This may have just been my experience with it, but I found it impossible to pull the grill away from the windscreen side in my 2008 SV6.
For me, I used 2 Flat-Head screwdrivers (preferably long ones but not too big), and poked one at a time in on the side that is closest to yourself, lifting it up bits at a time.
While one screwdriver was in, I used the other one on the same side, but further along to shimmy it open, the clips came undone and managed to not scratch a thing
May not be the "normal" way of doing it, but it worked for me so I thought I should share..
And with this, I am also a new proud remover of the stupid crappy center speaker
Word of advice for anyone taking off their door trims, DONT BREAK THOSE LITTLE BLUE/GREEN CLIPS!!
$6 a pop from holden parts.........
Didn't think it would matter too much with the amount of screws in there anywayOriginally Posted by Troyziee
Word of advice for anyone taking off their door trims, DONT BREAK THOSE LITTLE BLUE/GREEN CLIPS!!
$6 a pop from holden parts.........
ye but im a fussy prick
its abit dissapointing to see the amount of water inside the door, as ive got the rear trim off atm, and melbournes getting a down poor.
theres abit of water around the hole for the speaker, which means IF my speaker was in, that water would be straight onto my speaker.... which doesnt really thrill me at all....... and doesnt really impress me at all for a brand new car
Nice work on those custom pods. Looks a bit more professional than my jobs.
Interesting point you make about the water in your doors. Was it only the rear doors? I noticed that my rear speakers looked like the terminals had been wet at some stage, but wasn't sure if it was a problem with the doors or not. Obviously it is. Shows how pointless those splash guards are. I didn't worry too much as I just have cheaper Alpine's running off the head deck in the rear so I don't hear them until I listen too loud for too long and the amp overheats (so then it's only 30 sec until it kicks back in), but still it bugs me how to fix the problem. Latest thought is making an enclosed basket by using a short bit of PVC pipe with an end plate glued on. Don't know if it's even possible to get the right diameter pipe, and wondering if the enclosure would disrupt the speakers sound and even hold together with the pressure. Then there's the risk of vibration. But I'm thinking I should order bulk dynamat so maybe some of that in there too? What do people think? Any other ideas?
Must also agree that it's really poor form that water's getting in there. Worse since they mount the speakers exposed through the weather seal (that plastic sheet that now vibrates to some bass notes). Probably why one door lock plays up too, and can't wait for the window motor to give up from being wet (I assume)...
I've only do e the rear doors ATM, and when I did the first door it wasn't raining so I didn't notice water in there. Though like you said I did notice some water/rust on the speaker terminals, thought it was abut weird but didn't think much past that... Anyway, second door I had the trim off for about a week, and we copped a down poor, and Ye there was water sitting in the hole for the speaker, and down the bottom you could see all the water on the inside of the plastic sheet thing, which as mentioned would be dripping straight into the brains of the speaker coils.... If you look at the standard pods, they do have a small deflector at the top, and I thought about making a deflector out of PVC too, but the trims are back on now so can't be stiffed taking them off. But, mega-mega disappointing that waters in there full stop in a car that's only 10months old...
I fitted my speakers into the standard speaker pods to keep the water deflector. I figured that without the deflector is was likely water would come through into the car. The Polk DB651 speakers I used are marine rated, so not worried at all about them getting wet.
Did this a while ago - Tapped into Head speaker cables under the the D/side dash and ran some rca's to the boot. Also ran a switched power while i was at it from the lighter inside console. Ran power and earth from battery to a JL Audio G-Max 1200w amp plugged the RCA's into high level ins and threw in a 12" R-Type in a sealed box.........Then I had a thought why stop......so I piggy backed of the JL's passthrough wired up a Rockford Punch Amp and ran some spearker wires back down the sides to the front. This is where it got tricky. Decided to stick with Alpine (The best....opinion only) Opted for 61/2 Alpine R-Types for the fronts. Basic fitting as per original post very acurate by the way. DYNAMAT your doors people!!! Dont be stingy!! And slotted these babys in. The splits however were a pain in the arse but hrs later it was done. 1st sound test left me with an ear wide grin, awesome doesnt describe the difference. After add was more DYNAMAT for the boot lid/entire parcel shelf and wall/as much boot walls as i had left. Needs more! But over all Im happy. Its a work in progress I've made a custom fibre Twin portedsub enclosure with amp rack & Ipad display but ........ hasnt been finished yet (too much sanding!!)
I'm not sure I want to do an upgrade on my audio system myself as I don't trust it lol. How much do you think It would cost to get someone like Autobarn to do it for me?
Change Speakers, Add Sub and Amp.
Just a ballpark figure.
Hey Genecidal, looks good. Wish I could make something that nice. Just have an MDF box myself, but at least I know I made it to the right volume for my speaker and it looks good enough (as it works). Haven't done the dynamat yet, but you're right that it does need it. Running Alpine SPX-17REF's in the front, and at higher volume at certain frequencies the rattles start up. But have a 3d printer on the way, so I'm thinking I might be able to print custom pods with a better shield. Had to use the adaptor plates and wondering if they aren't that great (more things to vibrate).
Question though would be how much dynamat did you use? Thinking about Getting a bulk pack. Figure that should do the front doors properly (main concern). Then what else do you recommend? The sub box is screwed to the panel behind the seats, pointing the sub through the ski hole. So I'm guessing a layer on that & the parcel shelf, then maybe the boot lid. Finally the rear doors if there's any left over (head-unit powered speakers, so they do s.f.a). How much did you do on the doors? Just the inner skin (i.e- replacing the weather shield) or the outer skin too? Anything else to look out for? Like the trim or cables to the handle and lock? Kinda sick of pulling the car apart so only want to do it one more time.
Jbray - it isn't that hard to do yourself. Just follow this excellent guide. Fiddly, but that's about it. I don't trust places like Autobarn, so that's why I do it. Not saying they're bad, I'd say it depends on the people at a particular store, so I'd try to find out as much info first if you can. If you know someone that's done an upgrade, hassle them for who did it and how good it is. From what I've seen in the past and talking to installers, you will pay good money for a good job. Remember, anyone can call themselves an installer. One mate had a new headunit just screwed to the bottom of the dash in his ute, and a hole left where they removed the old one. That was one of those chain stores.
Do it yourself mate. I have a Series II and did it all myself with no experience. Ripped off door trims and dash panels...no worries. Just take your time with it all.
I Believe
dont be afraid mate..... you'll get a lot of satisfaction doing it yourself, and you'll learn a lot. i've only ever done it once (on a previous car), and was pretty chuffed afterwards. just take your time, dont take shortcuts, and do it right. if you get stuck.... well then thats what the internet is for
Rome wasnt built in a day....... take your time and revel in the sounds of the system YOU BUILT. Ive never glassed up a box before, but it turned out pretty good ( not painting it anymore - sooooooo much sanding = leather quick/easy)
Point is to have fun and create shit. Too many guys just pass it on to someone else to do. Man up!!
I wanted to upgrade the speakers in my '07 Lumina, without adding an amp or sub.
I went to Autobarn to enquire about this, and was blatantly told, 'It won't make any difference unless you add an amp.'
What gives?
Wongy,
I'm guessing the deal is that Autobarn pays commission. I was told some garbage by the salesman at my local store too. I inquired about maybe getting a second amp for my sub and using my current one to power all 4 speakers. Apparently that was pointless and I HAD to buy a new sub too to match the amp (which he tried selling a 4 channel, not the 1 channel I wanted). I have installed just speakers into a mates Honda and it worked great, they really did improve things. An amp is better and louder, but the headunit has an amp built in (that's what powers the speakers). Only ever owned 1 headunit without an amp. It's just that the inbuilt amp is tiny and not as good as an external one. What I'm not sure of is how much power the new speakers need to run, maybe there will be a volume loss, maybe not.
So at the end of the day, installing just new speakers (and removing the centre one) will make an improvement. And personally I wouldn't give that store any of my money if they're going to tell you garbage. (Besides, I paid hundreds less elsewhere).
has anyone had this series 1 VE alpine head unit kit fitted? Alpine Electronics of Australia
is it good? and has anyone replaced all speakers,head unit and fitted a system of this type-
replaced head unit, replaced tweeters,front door speakers,centre dash speaker,rear door speakers,fit parcel shelf speakers,fit x2 subs in boot?
so total of 11 speakers.
dmp8810 - Yeah mate. Well sort of. I didn't use an Alpine head unit, I went Pioneer. But the new console is the same. (Picture on previous page). It's awesome as you can put your own headunit in and not have the old one. Steering wheel controls still work which is great too. The only gripes I have are :
- I think the standard HVAC controls look better.
- When switching on the front demister, the A/C turns on (as per standard), but you can't switch the A/C off and still have the front demister on.
- At night I can't see the buttons on the HVAC unless I drive under a street light or put the interior light on.
As for the speakers, I removed the front mid, not replaced (no point for my system). The fronts I put in Alpine SPX-17Ref running off an Alpine v12 amp. Woofers in door, tweeters are mounted in the trim where the old ones were as they didn't fit under it. Put a 12" sub in a custom box pointing through the ski hole also off the same amp. (I had the amp and sub from my last 'dore). Then just put cheaper Alpine speakers in the rear doors running off the head unit. So I can't really tell they are there. But it sounds good enough to me. Better once I get around to the dynamat. Still love to know what others did and how much they used.
So in all it's not perfect, but I think it still stomps all over the standard head unit and am glad I did it.
Donating Member
I finally upgraded my system and installed :
Hertz HSX165 splits in the front doors
Hertz ECX165 coaxials in the rear doors
Hertz HDP4 amplifier which i mounted in the boot
Thinking about a subwoofer now but need to find something slimline.
Hey, I wanna do this to my 2008 SSV Ute, could anyone who as done this upgrade reply with what speakers they used and where they got them. I'm strugglin to find 2ohm splits.
Cheers
Banned
Any 4ohm will do mate, volume may be a little less, I didnt notice any loss really. I ran mine off the deck for a little while, no damage done, if you plan to amp them up then theres no need to even begin to stress. There should be pics in my thread of how I mounted the splits and where my amps are. Feel free to shoot through any questions
question; i have installed my rear speakers (rockford 4ohms) but have not gotten around to the fronts yet, which means im running 2ohm fronts and 4ohm rears, will this do any damage?
anyone no if a 4inch speaker will fit in the center of the dash?
No, it's fine to run a higher ohm rated speaker as it will just get less power.
hey i have a 2007 ve lumina, and this is a great post but it doesnt explain for my stereo how i run wires from head unit to LOC for sub..... which wires on back of headunit do i use to run for the sub as mine only has speaker wires that i know of.
help ASAP installing at the moment :P
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