Redline Ute Rear Brakes

[wayneforrest]

Thinking of upgrading the rear brakes on my redline ute, anybody done this and what way did you go. Also anybody know where in Sydney to go to get the callipers repainted. Was thinking AP racing

[impulsive]

why the rear brakes, 80% of braking is on the front brakes

[VK SL 3800]

maybe he would like to do sweet 180s in the wet. XU1 torana style.

[wayneforrest]

Has Brembo on the front standard and would like better rear brakes

[wayneforrest]

Sorry realised in the wrong forum will go to the VE Forum

[VK SL 3800]

Either way i suggest you put a clamp on your rear lines and use the brakes just to see how little they really do and why you dont need to upgrade them.

[tomholzy]

you dont need to upgrade the rear calipers unless youre really serious about the track! just put the best pads you can get in them and theyll be fine (I put QFM A1RM's in mine)

but about the painting, I was looking into it as well, and this is what I found:

the professional way that brakes are painted is a powdercoating, this is how all of the big branded calipers come from factory including our redline brembos - it is incredibly heat resistant and you get that nice smooth finish, however you need to get a brake specialist to take apart the calipers and re-build them after with new seals that you will have to track down yourself (maybe from holden but who knows), seems like a lot of mucking around...

on the other hand you can just get them painted, but its not as resistant to heat, takes a lot more prep work, and cant guarantee that professional looking finish, seems a bit risky!

you will also need to track down more brembo stickers in heat resistant material in order to put back on after painting, another muck around - I was only able to find these online and from dodgy looking sites!

either way will require the calipers off the car, hence the car out of action for several days!

we may have to live with the silver!

[wayneforrest]

i dont mind the silver, but either way i go would like the rear brakes to look as near the same as the front in colour, seen a sedan with the ap racing on the rear and it looked awesome he had painted them silver. Thanks about the advice on the pads.

[Slipper]

what marketing genius decided on brembos at the front and stocks at the back, would hate the half/half look myself

[K-Man]

I read in one of the Motoring mags that when pushed in the hills, the rear brakes gave out first. So good pads would'nt be a bad idea. Personally i would chuck in a set of slotted rotors all round while your at it, but its up to you.

[tomholzy]

pad & fluid upgrade and they wont fade or give out, just be limited to one piston worth of force

[gslrallysport]

I read in one of the Motoring mags that when pushed in the hills, the rear brakes gave out first.

That's not uncommon. The biggest trap people fall into is thinking that because the rear of the car does less braking, the brakes don't work as hard.... Yes, it's true that the rear 'axle' does less of the overall vehicle braking, but it's also got substantially smaller hardware in which to do it with, so the actual 'brakes' themselves can often work just as hard on the back of the car as the fronts do. This is becoming especially true as manufacturers are tending to go with smaller rears pads on larger rear rotors to make it easier for the electronic systems to modulate the brakes under weight transfer... Same reason why modern cars go through rear pads nearly as fast as front pads.

[wayneforrest]

So you think it is a good idea to upgrade the rears then

[tomholzy]

pads definately, fluid probably

[wayneforrest]

i have ordered pads from QFM front and rear, see how that goes.

[brad VE SSV]

So has any one on here upgraded the rears with different callipers, I will be soon taking my ute to the track regularly and want it to stand up to it...

[Voodoo_SV6]

Also, the rears on many modern cars are the first to commence braking when you apply them.

This assists to load the rear and settle the back end before the fronts start to do real work. I typically go through rear pads before fronts, but change them all when the rears are dead.

I personally would go with the pads Greg suggests.

Also, do you carry much weight in the back? or is the car a show pony?

[brad VE SSV]

On my ute I'll be towing a 1 tonne boat a fair bit.. But not so much loaded in the tray.

[gslrallysport]

So has any one on here upgraded the rears with different callipers, I will be soon taking my ute to the track regularly and want it to stand up to it...

Honestly, you won't need anything bigger, unless you're dong some SERIOUS work. The VE runs massive rotors, and the rears are vented as standard. You've also got more rear pad area than a Brembo'd STi, Evo or 350Z, so don't get too carried away with the piston count.

The pads I'd recommend would be the QFM A1RM, which are a Ferodo DS2500 equivalent performance wise, and $149 for the front (assuming Redline Brembo front caliper) and $119 for the rear.

That said your first weakness (soft spongy pedal) on the track, long before pads or rotors, will be the fluid. The stuff that we use and recommend is the TRW GP600 Dot 4 Racing Brake Fluid, and is $65 for a 1L bottle.

[Senetor17]

I too want to upgrade the rear brakes on my Redline sedan. I saw a set of Brembo 4 piston rears on a Chrysler 300 SRT8 (Red calipers) and the fronts looked identical to the Redline's except for colour. I was wondering how to track down the part number for the rears on the Chrysler and find out if they can be adapted to the rear of the commodore.