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Thread: Running in a new VE 6Litre

  1. #1
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    Default Running in a new VE 6Litre

    What are the recommendations on running in a new 6L?
    I once heard that it was good to vary driving style, vary revs. warm it up hit the rev limiter sometimes cruise at different revs.
    I know my mate used to get go cart race motors built and when he asked about running it in the builder said do a few laps to warm it up, and then treat it like you hate it, then do a few laps to cool down.
    I know the computer learns so this sounds good to me.
    Thoughts???

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    astroham is offline PHATV6
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    i was told (not by the dealer) that when running in a motor
    1: dont drive for long distances at a constant speed / rpm
    2: dont rev it too hard like 4000+
    3: et it warm up before you drive it ... which should be done anyway

    not sure how good this advice is but it seems to have worked for me so yeah

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    Look in the manual it should have correct instructions for your cars run in period as you'll get as many opinions on running in as you will have had hot dinners from different people.
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    Engines these days don't need to be run in like the old ones do. Just drive it normally.

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    And get the oil and filter done at the 3000km service, or do it yourself much cheaper.
    Silver Certified.

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    Hey,

    - Manual says moderate acceleration for first 1000kms
    - Heavy acceleration for 1000kms-3000kms
    - No heavy launching.
    ^^ Check all these in your manual, this is from memory.

    I gave it 1/2-3/4 throttle for first 1000km, going occassionally up to about 5800rpm
    Then 100% throttle in first for 1000km-3000km, and obviously I still do that occassionally now (at 5000kms), up to 5800rpm as well.

    There is nowhere around my area to do heavy acceleration in second, you will hit 100km/hr (and risk your license). I spent a lot of time doing around town driving cruising at 60. I tried to vary it when I could - pull off to a side road, then restart it from 0-60 again. I went up to 80 sometimes too.

    I got the oil changed at 3000km with Mobil 1 and the filter done too.

    My car was dyno'd at 207rwkw recently it is a SS manual ute. That is SLIGHTLY low from what I've seen, but it may be the engine itself not just the way I ran it in.

    I just got it tuned with Walkinshaw and it's now 235rwkw with a CAI (but no exhaust). $1500 tune, it goes pretty well now, much the same as stock though really (it is different but not OH MY GOD ITS A DIFFERENT CAR). For comparison stock Maloo's dyno at 245rwkw, so mine probably has around 300kw at the flywheel. I quite like it

    Might be selling it soon (gf wants house), wonder what I could get... 33k-35k? hmm...

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    Motors these days are actually quality tested and run in prior to being put into the car - Check youtube for the construction of a VE, they actually show you.

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    It's fair enough to subscribe to the "drive it like you stole it" way of thinking when you're only driving a 1.6 Fiesta, but when you're driving a big V8 it's a little tough. If I drive my SSV hard all the time I'd be pulled over by the fuzz every 10 minutes!

    Every 2nd person you speak to has a different opinion. I've spoken to a handful of mechanics who contradict each other's opinions. My best mate (a Holden mechanic) says "drive it hard", a bloke I work with (Holden workshop foreman for 25 years) says "take it easy for at least 1000km.

    To me it does stand to reason that engines these days aren't the same as older engines.

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    Quote Originally Posted by astroham View Post
    i was told (not by the dealer) that when running in a motor
    1: dont drive for long distances at a constant speed / rpm
    2: dont rev it too hard like 4000+
    3: et it warm up before you drive it ... which should be done anyway

    not sure how good this advice is but it seems to have worked for me so yeah
    1. Yes
    2. Yes
    3. No.

    The point of not having it sit on constant revs is so you don't glaze the bores. This is most likely to happen at startup when idling. Get in it, start it and drive it. Just be gentle for the first 1000km or so. RTFM - it's all there.

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    UFO's Avatar
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    ^ this.

    and even though book says dont change oil filter at 3,000km.... CHANGE IT.
    main thing is no constant hwy driving/or stop start city traffic in the first 2,000km.
    up and down the rev range suburban driving... occasionally harder acceleration, occasionally soft. dont baby it, but dont thrash it either.
    and no towing.

    yeah it's a modern engine and doesnt need to be 'run in' as such, but its still important to ease it into life a little.

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    UFO, how the crap do you do this in Canberra? "main thing is no constant hwy driving/or stop start city traffic in the first 2,000km"


    Quote Originally Posted by UFO View Post
    ^ this.

    and even though book says dont change oil filter at 3,000km.... CHANGE IT.
    main thing is no constant hwy driving/or stop start city traffic in the first 2,000km.
    up and down the rev range suburban driving... occasionally harder acceleration, occasionally soft. dont baby it, but dont thrash it either.
    and no towing.

    yeah it's a modern engine and doesnt need to be 'run in' as such, but its still important to ease it into life a little.

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    For the first 2,000k's (3 weeks driving) i did the following:
    1) didn't warm it up longer than 1min
    2) Accelerated through the rev range (up to Red) not all the time, but varied it
    3) Didn't do heavy braking or motor braking
    4) used different petrols, but now on 98
    5) enjoyed it!

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    So what about the idea of running in the motor with a conventional mineral oil from factory before dropping in some good quality synthetic?? Is everyone aware that the crate motors coming from the States (L77) are factory filled with Dexos 1 spec oil which is a fully synthetic oil?? And Holden, if they aren't doing it already, are factory filling all Australian built cars with ACDelco Dexos 1 spec oil?? No more mineral oil for running in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by astroham View Post
    i was told (not by the dealer) that when running in a motor
    1: dont drive for long distances at a constant speed / rpm
    2: dont rev it too hard like 4000+
    3: et it warm up before you drive it ... which should be done anyway

    not sure how good this advice is but it seems to have worked for me so yeah
    ive been told the exact same by my builder, but dont warm it up like reaper said

  17. #17
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    I have a new ssv redline ute, all I can gather from all these opinions is every one has there own idea of what is right and wrong... Think Ill just treat it soft with the occasional longer rev... Going to take me 6 months to do 3000km's since I've had it a month and only just got to 500km..

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    Quote Originally Posted by HellSoldier View Post
    Motors these days are actually quality tested and run in prior to being put into the car - Check youtube for the construction of a VE, they actually show you.
    I worked for HEO when they introduced the Alloytec and the only reason they hot tested every engine was because they had so many failures, most engine plants (ie:family II, Ecotec) only take one sample out of 10 and the imported V8's which were only slightly modified crate motors didn't get hot tested at all.
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