No oil pressure 6.0L V8

[VSTrev]

Hi All,

Just a little story to amuse you all…

Sunday night, started the car and was just about to reverse out the driveway when the dash emitted a constant ping. This drew my attention to the dash which was displaying the oil warning light.

I checked the handbook which says “Park the car and turn it off immediately,” which I did.

It went on to say, check oil – I did, I had tones of it and it was clean. It also said it could be an oil pressure issue.

Spoke to my mechanic on Monday, he thought it would most likely be just a sensor, but on the safe side we both agreed to get it towed to him.

He plugged in all his gizmos and wizardry to find that the sensor was ok and there was indeed no oil pressure at all within the system.

Some Google searches, phone calls to GENIV specialists and Chevy have led us to the following conclusion, best case scenario, it’s the oil pump, worst case scenario there is internal issues in the engine/block itself which means either rebuild or replacement.

So, as of yesterday, my mechanic has basically pulled the front out of the car, and ripped the sump off. He did mention how clean and perfect everything looked so he does not believe it to be an internal issue. So this hopefully means it’s just the oil pump.

So now he is pulling everything off the front of the engine to get to the oil pump and replace it.

So, it’s pretty much been a week without my car and it looks like I won’t get it till later next week IF replacing the oil pump works.

Of course, she is 6 months outside of warranty.

Anyone have any similar stories? I will update this thread when I have more info.

[dredrum]

Did you not try a new sensor first? Even in the computer, if the oil sensor is faulty, it's going to show no oil pressure.

[VR028]

my dads VE does the same thing. if he doesnt drive it for a few days he gets a low oil warning and a check engine light. The car is in warranty but the clowns at the dealership just reset the computer and tell us not to worry untill the next service. i would hate to think if the check engine light actually came on for a different reason rather than a computer fault.

[VSTrev]

Did you not try a new sensor first? Even in the computer, if the oil sensor is faulty, it's going to show no oil pressure.

Initial thought/hope was that it would just be a sensor. One of the gizmos and wizadry that my mechanic used was a system pressure test which revealed 0 pressure in the system.

[HEXEM]

Failed O-ring on the oil pump pick-up will result in a drop in oil pressure. Apparently common but not sure if this is your problem.

[VSTrev]

Failed O-ring on the oil pump pick-up will result in a drop in oil pressure. Apparently common but not sure if this is your problem.

Yep, mechanic heard about that one too, he showed me the o-ring though and it looked perfect. He agreed. But he has replaced it anyway.

[RiCeY]

Zero pressure is odd theres usually some pressure there even if the oil is aerating from a leaking o ring on the pickup. Also a failing oil pump generally still produces some pressure.

Did the engine sound bad/rattle?

[VSTrev]

Zero pressure is odd theres usually some pressure there even if the oil is aerating from a leaking o ring on the pickup. Also a failing oil pump generally still produces some pressure.

Did the engine sound bad/rattle?

Last time I heard it running it sounded completely normal. That was Sunday night. My mechanic asked me if it sounded different, rough, or knocking and no, it didn't.

He mentioned last time he had it running which was around Monday midday, that something (I can't remember) within the top of the engine was slightly noisier than normal which was consistent with no oil in that area. But he did say that he was surprised at how well it was running, and how clean the oil was and how clean the filter in the oil pickup pipe was.

[RiCeY]

An engine with zero oil pressure doesnt just have minor top end noise.

Id like to know exactly how he tested the pressure.

[HEXEM]

An engine with zero oil pressure doesnt just have minor top end noise.

Id like to know exactly how he tested the pressure.

I have top end startup rattle and my oil pressure is fine. 340kpa on cold start within 2 seconds. Having extremely low oil pressure will result in a rather noisy engine

[Darcon666]

I have heard that if our LSx engines do not have enough oil presure it's real easy to spin the main bearings on the crank...

Rebuild engine time. Or New engine(LS3) time

[VSTrev]

An engine with zero oil pressure doesnt just have minor top end noise.

Id like to know exactly how he tested the pressure.

This is why we are confused and ultimately not exactly sure what the problem is.

I went in to see her, and the mechanic, last night. not much progress because he has been busy. I have made it clear to him that i would rather he took his time, did it right than rush and miss something.

Anyway, he showed me the new oil pump, including the seals and gaskets. There is a high pressure release valve on the pump, perhaps this could be the issue, if this was stuck open for some reason it would allow the free flow of oil.

So, the mechanic is working on her right now hopefully and i will provide more info when I have it. I took some photos last night as well which i will post soon.

[VSTrev]

Some images for you:
Engine bay


Parts on floor


Under car


bottom of engine


oil pump intake

[VSTrev]

Update:
New oil pump is in and Oil Pressure has returned...

Mechanic said, "I Think"... O ring on oil intake has been air rating. A very small piece has gone through the system and lodged in the high pressure release valve within the oil pump jamming the valve open. Once the valve was freed it operated normally and did not stick again.

So, new oil pump is installed along with all new o rings, gaskets and seals. However it would appear that the existing oil pump would probably continue to work perfectly fine now the tiny piece of debris has been removed.

[wing_nut]

WOW 1 little thing and such a big disaster
Wouldnt it been easier to take the engine out and leave the front end in

[Thumpin]

Small issue but still significant. The same thing has brought down aircraft!

I'm happy to hear that you believed the on-board warning and shut it down. My Missus would have preceeded to drive and would have rang me to say there's an annoying beeping sound...

How much was the fix?

[VSTrev]

Better to be safe then sorry, right Thumpin?

[kiwicon]

good result in the end, but really your mechanic had to resort to google?? ... although google does no all

hope his labour time wasnt to high

[VSTrev]

Ok, I have my car back.

All i will say about the past two weeks is that, if/when you get an oil warning indicator, hope that it is just a sensor, but assume it isn't and park the car, as the manual says to do, get it towed. I am so glad i did that because otherwise i would have had a genuine 6.0L V8 paper weight.

For those that are interested, here is the report from the mechanic: -

Labour

Check vehicle after being towed to the workshop for reported illuminated oil pressure warning light.

Carry out diagnostic checks & full vehicle diagnostic scan to check for any flagged faults.

No faults logged relating to oil pressure switch operation.

Remove oil pressure switch & fit oil pressure gauge to check actual pressure @ outlet.

Report no oil pressure.

Remove the following & all associated components to gain access to sump & oil pump pickup components.
Support motor as required.
-Road wheels
-Body / engine trays & covers
-Complete front subframe assemply with front suspension & breaking components in situ.
-Starter motor & associated electrics.
-Power steering high pressure lines, returns & cooling lines.
-Gearbox dust covers
-All auxillary electrical routes & pipe routes.

Remove engine sump & inspect internal components.

Remove & inspect integral oil pressure relief valve. - No fault found.

Remove & inspect oil pickup assembly.
Report no contaamination on screen.
Report sealing O Ring slightly distorted but still servicable.
Pressure test pickup assembly to ensure no breaches or air leaks.
Report none found

Continue to remove the following necessary components to gain access to the engine oil pump assembly.
-Auxillary drive belts
-water pump & all associated water works
-radiator with thermatic fans in situ
-recover R124A refrigerant
-Air conditioning condensor
-Power steering cooler
-Engine crank pully
-Engine timing cover

Remove engine oil pump & disassemble on bench to check for damage or wear.
Remove inegral pump relief valve to check for damage or wear.
-Report pump relief valve sticking in bore.

Supply & fit new oil pump
Prime as required to ensure instant flow.
Place sump loosely on vehicle & Fill with engine oil as to check pump operations & subsequent pressure.

Remove all engine spark plugs as to lower compression and remove all load from engine on first crank.

Report oil pressure present & reaching outlet in passanger side head.

Reassemble everything replacing all one use only seals as required.
-parts listed below.

Refill engine cooling system with specified coolant & bleed system of any residual air.
Check operation of thermal fans.

Refill motor with specified oil & add wynns oil flush to remove any residual contaminates from the oil circuits.

Run at operating temperature for 20 minutes.

Drain engine oil & change engine oil filter.

Refill engine with specified oil & add wynns friction proofing to help protect engine from any slight war that may have occured when oil supply issues were present.

Refill power steering system with specified oil & bleed of any residual air.

bleed front brake calipers to remove all air from the circuits & recheck operation.
-Top up brake resovaire with specified brake fluid as required.

Regas air conditioning system with correct amount of R134A refrigerant.
-Recheck operation.

Carry out full engine wash to remove all oil spilled during repair & to clean other oil affected areas.
(See Notes)

Refit all engine covers & trays.

Road test vehicle.

Recheck entire repair on hoist after road test to ensure that there are no oil or water leaks & that everything has sealed & is operating as required.

Parts

Front crank seal
timing cover gasket
water pump gasket
thermostat seal
oil pump assembly
oil pump pickup assembly
oil pan gasket
crank shaft bolt
engine coolant
engine oil (flushed)
engine oil (final)
sump plug washer
engine oil filter
wynns engine oil flush
wynns friciton proofing
power steering oil
R134A refrigerant
hose clamps (small)
hose clamps (large)
brake fluid
degreaser
workshop supplies
environmental waste

Notes

Vehicle will need to be rechecked in 2 - 4 weeks to ensure that there are no oil or water leaks & that everything is operating as required.

Minor oil leaks from the engine rear main seal & power steering lines have now been washed down & will be rechecked for severity next service.

Engine oil & filter should be replaced every 5000km to ensure that no contamination occurs & wynns friction proofing should be used every time from now on.

[pjdm1980]

How many Klm's has your car done?

[RiCeY]

Bit retarded to d/c the calipers when you could have undone 2 bolts and hung them off the car and save rebleeding and brake fluid.

[Hallzy]

Yeah, makes ya wonder....

[VSTrev]

How many Klm's has your car done?

65,000 km, 2008 model.

[Darcon666]

Not saying that your machanic went the wrong way ..... but WOW!!!! all that for just an oil pump to be replaced on a VE, WTF??????

I've been unfortunate to have 2 oil pumps fail on me(The original & the new one three weeks later... grrrrrrr) and the switch, but it was on a LS1 and both times all that had to be done is the same as the CAM install.

Front spoiler/Radiator/AirCon/Water pump/Pulleys/Harmonic balancer/Front cover plate off, oil pump out--> new one in and reverse the process.. 1 day. No power steering/front cross member/engine/calipers/ABS etc. etc. etc off..... God knows what could be introduced and/or could fail now all that was removed, I wounld not have been happy to see that done to my car.

Sorry... Just my 0.0000000000000001c

[VSTrev]

I do agree with you Darcon to a point, however it was a learning experience for both of us, and a troubleshooting process for my mechanic. I should also point out that Holden, Chevy, GENIV experts, Other mechanics and engine rebuilders appeared to be more than less than helpful.

I'm sure when faced with this again, he will have a far better initial understanding.