VE Throttle Body : Warning Codes?
Is anyone else out there having problems with VE holden SV6 Throttle Body warnings.
My one had all the warning mesages come up. Stability control off. Power reduced and one other I cant remember. They tested the codes and said there was a problem. They cleaned it and said if it happens again we will replace it. It has happened again and was fixed by cleaning. Has anyone else had this issue? Has anyone else heard about throttle Bodies getting dirty so easily? Is this a common problem? I dont do any off roading or dirt roads so not sure what is making it so dirty!!!!! Are they having me on and cleaning it at my expense till the warranty runs out and then they will say it needs replacing.???????????????
I don't think it is common, it sounds quite obscure to me, i often drive my ve on gravel roads and it gets dirty as all hell and i have never had this problem.
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Mine sometimes flashes up randomly "Stability control off" makes a ding noise then disappears, happens at least once per weekend (I do 1000km/w end) and seems to be when going down a hill with no throttle.
Odd.
ive justhad my throttle body replaced from holden as it was faulty n ive only got 70,000k's on the clock but its running sweet now that they have changed it
I had TPS fault codes on several occasions, on my 2006 V6 WM. It also seemed to affect the auto trans shift points. I cleaned it, but that didn't fix anything. I priced a new one from Holden - about $480 from memory. I also proced a new aftermarket one, which was around $380. I also saw a brand new genuine one on Ebay, and I got it for $300. Fitted it in around 15 minutes, and problem solved. Apparently the early 175 kw and 195 kw throttle bodies were different, but they have both been superceded by a single replacement - PART NO 12615503.
Sometimes throttle bodies get a buildup of oily residue just behind the throttle butterfly. This can cause them to stick just off idle, and cleaning them solves this. If your car is still under warranty, insist that it is replaced with a new genuine part. Cars under warranty shouldn't suffer from this problem. It only tends to happen to older cars, or cars with high KM, as the PCV system starts to feed oily crankcase fumes back into the inlet prior to the throttle body. It has nothing to do with driving on dirt roads.
My VE SV6 has started to have problems the same if feels like it is surging and is worse when i try and use cruise control, my mechanic checked it and the computer came up with throttle boddy so he cleaned it out re set the codes but it has started doing it again no warning as yet , annoyed as it is just out of warranty
P0068?
P2096?
I am complaining in another thread about something like this. They claim because of the CAI I am getting too much air into the engine and the also getting the same problem from the throttle body cause my ESP to beep at me ALL the time when I slow down for any reason 2km below the speed I am holding.
Also when I took the stock air box off the car the throttle body and the big black plastic piece after the throttle body were both full of what appeared to be oil
P0068
Diagnostic Trouble Code Description:
Throttle Body Airflow Performance
Possible Sensor Faults
ECM
Possible Related Diagnostic Trouble Codes
DTC P0068 or P1101 for the 2.8L, 3.0L, 3.2L, or 3.6L engine
Circuit / System Description
The engine control module (ECM) compares actual airflow based on throttle position (TP) to a calculated airflow based on manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, and mass air flow (MAF).
P2096
Diagnostic Trouble Code Description:
Post Catalyst O2 Sensor Fuel Trim Below Lower Limit Bank 1
Possible Sensor Faults
ECM
Possible Related Diagnostic Trouble Codes
DTC P2096 or P2098
Circuit / System Description
Fuel trim bias is used by the ECM to keep the post catalyst HO2S voltage within a range of 580-665?mV. This allows optimal catalyst efficiency under light load conditions, such as at idle or a steady cruise. The ECM constantly monitors how lean or rich the fuel trim bias is commanded, to determine if the fuel trim bias is greater than a calibrated amount.
These are the problems they claim.Originally Posted by Zerone_V
I just had RACQ here looking at the car, it wouldnt start without accelerator. and when i did get the accelerator to start the car The revs would drop from holding at 2000 to like 400 then back up like the cylinders were dropping. I unplugged the + and - terminals as per advice to stop the check engine and ESP fault. Then when I plugged it back in above problem ahoy! $150 and a years membership to RACQ later they got it to work and now its fine, it fixed itself. They recommended I get a new battery too, the one in my car is from 03/06 and the original battery. Apparently 5.5 years of battery life is great. I am buying a new 550A calcium battery today. Recommended by RACQ and the battery shop.
I have just had the same thing happen to my new VE SV6...with only 300ks on it!!
Yesterday, the wife was driving up the F3 when the car started to lose power and alarms and warning lights went of. The car cut out and she pulled to the side of the road, called the NRMA. The Patrolman thought it was something to do with the stability control, his diagnostic computer could connect with the car.
NRMA Patrolman got her going but she only went a couple of hundred meters and it happened again. Luckily the Patrolman was still nearby and decided it had to be towed to the nearest dealer, Central Coast Holden, where it still sits awaiting a new throttle body/airflow meter, from Melbourne.
The stability control won't be the cause, it will be a symptom. It's much more likely to be an air flow meter problem, or if it cut out completely, an ECU, fuel pump or similar problem. A car should still drive (sort of) in a safe mode with a completely failed air flow meter. From my experience, the VE tends to turn off safety systems such as ESP, traction control and ABS if it detects a problem in another area which may affect performance such as the air flow meter. You get the warnings that the ESP, TC and ABS are off, but they are not necessarily faulty themselves.
Given that the car is only 300 km old, insist on a written report of exactly what went wrong, and exactly what was replaced. Also, ask for the failed replaced parts, and see what they say.
These things are nice cars, but getting very complex. Don't lose confidence in them from the occasional failure.
Yeah, it was an air flow meter that was the problem, should have it back tomorrow.
I'm a Holden man thru and thru so I wont be losing any confidence over it. When I bought my first new car in 1990, an Atlas Grey VN SS, it too spent many a trip on the back of a truck to the dealer. The engine just turned off whilst driving. Lost count how many times it happened, eventually it was found to be a poorly connected wire on the solenoid(?). It ran like a dream after that, had it for 12 yrs until I bought an 18 month old Series 2 VT SS, still got it, trying to flog it privately as the trade in offered was appalling.
I had a similar problem on my 06 omega. Replaced the throttle body and problem solved. Apparently there was a lot of faults from factory on them my mechanic said. Stability light coming on etc. apparently the computer turns the car to safety mode causing thy light I come on.
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