RCA conversion by ASR for Series 2

[Woollie]

Hi all,

I have also put this in the audio section but no answers yet.

I was talking to Greg from ASR Audio last night about modifying my IQ system to have RCA outputs. He still hasn't done one of these yet so I might be the guinea pig here. I'm worried about doing it because it is a new car and I didn't want anything to go wrong.

Can anyone tell me what the worst that could happen is???

I was just going to use an LC2 converter but I know this conversion will definitely give me the best outcome. I like the fact that he also creates a remote wire as well.

Any thought?

[one_and_only2004]

The LC idea will work, but it will sound like shit. I had one in mine before the RCA mod and ill never use one again.

Worse case scenario is your head unit blows up, igniting fuel from a leaky fuel line close by and you die a terrible death driving to the shops.

A more likely scenario is Greg will do a fantastic job and you'll have an awesome stereo.

[davey g-force]

Don't worry too much mate. Greg is a professional and nothing will go wrong.

He's done 100's of Series 1 stereos and I cant imagine the Series 2 would be that different..

[Woollie]

Worse case scenario is your head unit blows up, igniting fuel from a leaky fuel line close by and you die a terrible death driving to the shops.

lol

[raff]

I have used a LC6i LOC on my series 2 SS and very impressed by the results. No noise or issues and provides a remote out to turn on amps through signal sensing. Saves modding the head unit and voiding any warranty issues should problems arise.

[VTSS350]

I agree. I have used the LC6i and also a Focal amp with a line level converter built in. Both did a fantastic job.

[one_and_only2004]

I had an LC6i - was shit compared to the RCA mod.

[Woollie]

Had the conversion done last night, I am officially the guinee pig. All went well except for the fact some of the dash panels are a little different to the series 1.

Anyway, I installed my amp today and I'm getting some serious turn off thump about a minute after the car has been switched off. Greg said it could be where he attached his remote wire.

If I move it to the brown wire under the glovebox will this get rid of this thump I am having? Greg seems to think that the remote wire he created is powering off too slow.

[timj]

My guess is he has picked a wire that stays powered up for a min or two, if you lock the car at night time you will notice the internal dash lighting will stay on for quiet a while. Not sure about the brown wire you speak of but really you need to find a wire in the fuse board that powers off as soon as you remove the key or open the door of the vehicle after removing the key from the ignition. If that makes sence, sorry been on the turps tonight

[UFO]

tap into something like the windscreen wiper motor wire... powered when key is turned on, powered off the second key is turned off... no delay.

[one_and_only2004]

Greg attaches his remote wire to the internal circuitry of the stereo so you don't need the keys in the ignition.

[Woollie]

Yeah I know but it was taking about 30 seconds to fade off to nothing and then *thump*. I moved the remote wire to the brown wire under the glovebox. All good now.

Only difference now is that I have engine whine now where I didn't before I moved the remote location. I'm even getting feed back from electrics like the brake lights and reverse lights. The only thing I changed was the remote.

Help anybody?

[one_and_only2004]

You've got ground loop problems. I can tell you how to fix it pretty easy, I'll write it up when I get home.

[one_and_only2004]

Righto, so what you need to do is get yourself a NARVA relay and relay base. Run the wire Greg installed for the remote wire through the switched contacts on the relay, and have the brown wire go into the +ve of the coil, and then run a cable from the -ve somewhere in the car to the other side of the coil.

ANNOYING NOISE NO MORE!

[Woollie]

But what if I'm not using Greg's remote wire anymore? Are you saying I use both Greg's remote wire and the brown wire from behind the glovebox? And what do you mean by "somewhere in the car"?

[one_and_only2004]

But what if I'm not using Greg's remote wire anymore? Are you saying I use both Greg's remote wire and the brown wire from behind the glovebox? And what do you mean by "somewhere in the car"?

Use his remote wire again - simple. The whole car is a giant -VE, you'll find one.

[Woollie]

OK, now I know what you mean. Question is, if I use Greg's remote wire again won't that then bring back the issue of the thump? Or will the amp power off instantly because I'm using the brown accessories wire as well?

[Woollie]

The engine whine is gone. I have a clicking sound in the speakers whenever I put my foot on the brake pedal, obviously when the brake light comes on. Even if the engine isn't running this is occurring. Any suggestions here or does the relay apply to this as well?

[Woollie]

I think I've worked out that it could be the way I have grounded my amp. I've grounded it directly to the battery ground with about a meter of grounding cable. I think I might be better off connecting this closer to the amp and to the vehicle chassis rather than the battery.

[Woollie]

Righto, so what you need to do is get yourself a NARVA relay and relay base. Run the wire Greg installed for the remote wire through the switched contacts on the relay, and have the brown wire go into the +ve of the coil, and then run a cable from the -ve somewhere in the car to the other side of the coil.

ANNOYING NOISE NO MORE!

Can you enlighten me on which relay to buy? Just a 4 pin? Is that a dumb question?

[one_and_only2004]

Just a 4 pin relay and relay base (12v obviously). You should be able to get one of each from most car shops.

[Woollie]

Thanks for that. I've also heard that I may fix the voltage spike pop by moving the remote wire to another accessories feed. Do you think this is possible?

[one_and_only2004]

I'd have no idea mate, I haven't had much to do with VE's.