Is it ok to use 10w-30 instead of 5w-30?? Any pros or cons for either??is
I use 10w-30 in my 3.6L SIDI, no drama.
Running a slightly different grade oil shouldn't have any impact on the motor.
I believe it's more temperature related anyway, different oil grades for different environments.
I use 10w to help a bit in summer and go a bit thinner 5w in winter
For Australia's climate you should be using a 10w or higher either way. A 5w is for temperatures much lower then we get here in Australia. Holden recommend a 5w-30 but you can easily use a 10w-30 and you should switch to a 10w-40 in summer when temps get above 35 degrees.
2.5" Single catback, LSD with 3.46 diff gears, Mace Manifold spacer, K&N panel filter ,VCM Dyno tune, RDA slotted and dimpled rotors.
More mods to come
Either of those oils would be fine for short trips. Thinner oils in general ( such as the 5W-30) are better suited to short trips than long ones because your engine is running cold for a lot of the time so the thinner oil will flow better than a thicker one.
Using a 5W-30 for long interstate trips would not be such a good idea because it can get too thin in Hot Aussie weather and not protect your engine properly. Also if thinner oils are left too long and start to break down the 30 ( hot viscosity ) drops even lower then you can really get into trouble.
I use 5W-40 oil but it is more expensive.
The dealership Im at uses 10/30 for all the VEs so yes its fine.
Silver Certified.
how about the good old Magnatec 10w40 in Brisbane RiCeY?
from what i have researched 5w30 gives better protection on start up, the first number 5 relates to viscocity(thickness) when cold ie left over night while the second number 30 is the viscocity(thickness) while running at operating temp so 5w is better than 10w on starting car cold
Well oils sold in Australia are not API certified, so in all honesty...how the heck could you guarantee that 5w-30 for instance is that exact viscosity ? You'd hope so given that the bottle says it, but in reality lubricant industry in AU is not very well regulated. I use common sense.
Stick with reputable brands and avoid marketing hype.
I've been using shell helix oils for over 10 years in different cars and never had a problem.
They don't burn, don't sludge, they keep the engine clean, and they are not overpriced
In my VE 3.6 i'm using helix ultra 5w-30 and will stick to it for the next few years. Once the car clocks a few k's i will go slightly 'thicker' to helix ultra 5w-40
In Australian climate you're better off with thicker oils, but not stupid thick. It's just not necessary and fuel consumption will increase. The engines these days are clearly different to what they were 10 yrs ago and tolerances are generally smaller and engine needs a good flowing oil....
From my research and experience anything between 5-15w (cold) and 30-40 (operating temp) will be just fine to protect your engine.
Most importantly service intervals recommended by Holden are very optimistic and in my opinion you'd have to be a fool to let your car run with the same oil for 12 months....
Stick to a good oil and approx 7500 k's service interval regardless of time and your engine will be happy
btw. when I contacted numerous dealerships in Sydney and inquired about oils NONE of them used 5w-30
They all used either 10w-30 or 10w-40
For them, I'd assume it's a cost cutting measure
Last edited by Xonar; 21-12-2011 at 12:07 PM.
My understanding was that the higher the viscosity number the thicker the oil. Would then not be the other way around? 30 weight the cold viscosity, and 5 weight the hot viscosity? I know they put full synthetic 5w-30 in my SS, but i am looking at putting thicker oil due to the temps and driving, the car is mostly driven on the highway. Plus it has 120k on the clock.
On the other hand, my sons VR with 300k on it, gets 40w-70![]()
Reviled did i live as evil i did deliveR
- UNDERSTEER is when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
- OVERSTEER is when you hit the wall with the rear.
- HORSEPOWER is how fast you hit the wall.
- TORQUE is how far you take the wall with you.
The "w" after the first number represents the Winter rating.....
As for Oils, everyone has a favourite brand and as long as the rating is close to what the manufacturer specifies, and oil changes are done frequently, then you should not have any dramas.
For me, I have had a couple of bad mechanics work on my previous cars, so trust is a big issue for me.
I do not trust the current lot of mechanics I have dealt with to put anything but the cheapest excuse for oil they can get their hands on.
So I do it myself, and the money that I save on paying a mechanic to do it, I spend on the Oil.
And because MY time is expensive (to me anyway), I am not going to waste my time trying to save a couple of bucks on semi par Oil, when I will be spending my valuable time doing the oil change.
penrite 40w70 seems to be a good oil, im happy with it
40w-70 ?!??!
that would flow through your engine like porridge !
i was told to put it in my festiva because if you use 10w oils it will burn it
20w-50 would be as thick as I'd ever use
The oils recommendations for Penrite meet nothing to do with your festiva
"HPR 50 PREMIUM MINERAL
SAE 40-70
Premium Mineral and extra high viscosity petrol engine oil for use in older large six and eight cylinder engines especially
those subjected to heavy/extreme load situations such as caravan/boat towing or in competition.
Equally suitable for large capacity engines with severe oil consumption problems."
All engines with 195kw up use 5w-30 and all others 10w-30, all you have to do is look on the container and if it says GF4 then it is 5w-30 and GF-3 is 10w-30, if you follow that then the oil meets all industry specifications for those engines.
I use holden oil 10w-30 which is a mineral oil and now they have the new 5w-30 which is a synthetic oil.
I will be using 5w-30 next oil change GF-4 synthetic.
Ronald
Last edited by Ronaldw; 23-12-2011 at 10:24 AM. Reason: add on