my vl is ticking.........
hey guys. my 5 speed manual VL is ticking....like a bomb . tail shaft or diff ??????
When i engage 1st gear and increase the revs to gain speed for second, if I solftly softly increase the speed( like an old lady on a sunday drive ) there is no noise. If i need to get up speed faster from 1st to second i hear a " TINK " somewhere behind the half way mark ( under the back seat near the diff or where the tail shaft connects to the diff.
it is the same from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th etc.
If i am crusing in any gear and then give her some juice to increase speed I hear teh TINKING more. If I maintain that stress the TINKING is continuous and sounds like a clock ticking. If I decrease the load on the engine the TINK goes away.
Sitting, out of gear, in the car port I can rev her up to max and no noise.
It is a metalic sound. There is a small amount of play in the tail shaft but I would have thought that when the tail shaft is under constant load any play would be removed.
Perhaps a tooth missing in the diff ?????
any suggestions greatly appreciated. thanks guys.
Spin
check the uni's first off
then jack both back wheels off the ground with the car in neutral and turn one wheel back and forth within its freeplay see if the noise occurs
might be a loose rear uni joint, check for freeplay when under the car
Hey Guys. my VL is no longer ticking. $ 2000.00 later and all the noise is gone.
The mechanic ( if any one is interested RPM at Darra QLD is brilliant with VL's ) was given a Wish List fo things I wanted to be looked at and repaired with a 2000.00 maximum....check it and beging doing what is the most important repairs then graduate along the list until you run out of money ) .
Firstly the EFI guy growled at me for "playing " with things I should not have. He started the car , eventualy,and immediately determined the dizzy was 13 deg out of whack, he made a hand adjustment and the engine ran really nice. secondly he "corrected " the other things I had played with and the engine ran even better. he noticed the third and fourth injectors were pouring their fuel loads over the outside of the engine and dripping on the stater motor and suggested that was not entiely optimal so he replaced all 6 with brand new ones. no more fuel smell while driving along. he pointed out the wiring bundle that normaly sets VL's on fire and made sure it was in such a state as not to burst into flame . He twiddled with a few screws that, even tho I watched him do it I have no idea where these screws are but again the engin ran even better....now idles at 200 revs instead of 1500 revs and as smooth as butter.
the Auto Electrician found that the starter motor was not talking to the computer and he replaced a wire to correct. she now starts whithin three turns of the motor instead of turning over and over and over until she spluttered and coughed to life.
The mechanic replaced the uni joints and center bearing and now no more diff noise or ticking at the back end. Replaced and refurbished the rear breaks wich is a nice change to be able to stop .
EFI Diagnostic
Fan belt
Timing belt
Ignition lead set
Spark plug gpr2 x 6
Injector set
Distributor cap
Centre bearing
Universal joint rear
Electrical starter diode
10/40 smi synthetic oil
she runs very nice now and has a lot more power expecialy in second gear which can now pull 120kpm easy.
thanks guys
Spin
auto or manual? 200 RPM is a bit low .....
Another VL Driver
Sea Dogs Champion!
rb30s should idle about 750rpm..
yeahh my vl use to tick alot but after awhile when u drove it around it wen away and especially on cold days it does it too.
Another VL Driver
Sea Dogs Champion!
only till oil warms and thins out slighly it gets pumped up to head and all it quiet...
regular oil changes dude is the key 5000Kms...
should slowly clean out unless its really gummed up then you need to clean the lifters
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