major intermittent problem.

[off_tap_vl]

iv had my vl for a few years now and for the last 6 or 7 months it just wont go anywhere.
it starts and idols as usual but when i go to take off it just sits there and misses. Its almost
like a flat spot but a big 1. But the next day it will run perfectly. even recently it has backfired and cut out completely. I have done the leads, plugs, dizzy, coil. swapped the afm for a second hand1. diagnostic mode comes back satisfactory while the problem is happening. i have no f*****g ideas.
Any help will be appreciated.

[detox_nath83]

clear the Computer and do another diagnostic.
either your fuel pump either 2 of them Inertia(inside tank) and high pressure(External)is on its way out.
fuel filter blocked??.....
it does sound like it is a Crank angle Sensor (CAS) problem or the Air Flow Meter(AFM).. thats what they cause when not running correctly.
u say u have swapped the afm was it a good working one???? Backfires can cause the hot wire in the AFM to blow out and destroy the AFM..
was the CAS(inside Dizzy) a good one as well??? (Where these from a wreckers? could be damaged already)
also check all your vacuum lines as well as your intake piping has no leaks between AFM and throttlebody this will cause car to run shit.
Let us know..... it does not sound like a huge problem... i would say nearly all Rb30 owners have had this problem before as the engines are 20+ years old now.
Another could be the Throttle Position Sensor(TPS) or AAC Valve located on Plenum..
Goodluck

[off_tap_vl]

cheers. the afm came from a mate who said it was good. and the dizzy and transistor are only 4 months old. i might check the aac valve. what exactally does this do? and how much? also the TPS how would i go about checking that?

[jatsvl]

as detox nath83 has said and check that your timing is correct and check the condition of your timing belt and tensioner pulley.

[Spin]

i'd go for a new CAS mate. they are known for being a bitch at the most inopportune moments....like when you want the car to actualy run. I have put three in mine so far.

[Gurner]

I had the same problem with mine couple months ago. Fuel pump.

[off_tap_vl]

which 1 bro?

[off_tap_vl]

it turns out to be the h/p fuel pump. thanks everyone for the helpful info. cheers

[detox_nath83]

nice man knew it wouldnt be too big a problem..

[revv_head]

Idols..... LOL

[off_tap_vl]

it was running sweet for a couple of days there but went to drive it today and didn't even get out the driveway. Any other ideas?

[Nackerz]

maybe that one is stuffed too

[off_tap_vl]

its a new pump and the problem is still the same. the only other thing i can think of is the computer itself is ****ed.

[detox_nath83]

Both pumps are working still/??? inertia and H/P can u hear it prime when key is turned forward but not crank?? as in pressurise system??
explain what its doing briefly can ya bud.....
Hows the fuel filter???

generally the Ecu's stuff up either by water running through them(rust around front window) or power spikes. i would not think its an ecu problem.. i always lean towards CAS and AFM.....
as well as the power diode in the wiring loom near battery corrodes out and causes injectors to shut off.
thats what mine did so i left the power diode out and did not connect the wire back together and have had no problems..... as soon as i connect the wires my injectors turn off and i cant start the car, disconnect and away she goes again....i think it is just a reverse polarity protector.

[off_tap_vl]

hey the fuel filter is new aswell ai i had it serviced not long before if started playing up. the fuel pump makes the usual humming noise it always has. might try that diode you were on about because today when i was checking the timing and idle revs it would idle perfectly for a minute or two then just give a little bit of a gurgle then shut off. is this simular to your injector problem?

[detox_nath83]

yep. it sounds similar... but i also experienced i would try start it and it would just crank and crank and not fire...
then i would leave it for a while and go out a try again and it went...
then i found that diode in the loom.
goodluck

[off_tap_vl]

hmmm...... my mate took it for a spin the other day and said that it was going fine till he got to the bottom of the road and put the brakes on and it gurgled and cut out. the he said it took a few goes to start again but then went and got him back home with no more worries. would the vacuum for the brakes cause problems?

[detox_nath83]

yes possibly loosing vacuum in the booster/master cylinder might cause this.....

A quick way to check the vacuum booster is to pump the brake pedal several times with the engine off to bleed off any vacuum that may still be in the unit. Then hold your foot on the pedal and start the engine. If the booster is working, the amount of effort required to hold the pedal should drop and the pedal itself may depress slightly. If nothing happens and the vacuum connections to the booster unit are okay, a new booster is needed (the vacuum hose should be replaced, too).

[leevysv8]

Could be the fuel pressure regulator too. I had this problem with my VL Turbo once and the problem was intermittent.

[Goon]

battery terminals on tight as can be?

cas!!!/not the dizzy....

timing or afm..

[jatsvl]

just another suggestion check your trans fluid level when it is very low it will cause the car to stall also.
and there are no air leaks in your intake pipe?

[off_tap_vl]

trans level is good. master cylinder dosnt have any leaks. yet to try the fuel pressure regulator.

[off_tap_vl]

lol whats the chance of the distributer shitting it self, buying one from the wreckers that is ****ed and my mate bringing one around that is ****ed

[detox_nath83]

not so much the dizzy but the CAS inside are just like the AFM's tempremental bloody things.
you need to try one from a working car

[vlpwr]

Check the condition of the wire coming from the air flow metre for condition make sure its as far away from the engine as possible, and try a new fuel pump fuel relay etc.