problems in inspecting the cam belt

[harry3]

since the engine will be seriously damaged if the cam belt breaks, I wonder why its so dificult to inspect it
much needs to be removed to get the belt cover off, so that the belt, if not obviously near new, might as well be replaced with a new one at the same time

the top part of cover can be partly pulled back but you cant see much, only the outside

why isnt there a removable inspection port on the cover to allow a proper inspection of the belt?

[K3zBang]

Very true, I believe there is an aftermarket cover you can get that allows you the view it.

[cracker]

the top cover has like 4 bolts... its pretty easy.
also pretty sure the rb30 wont smash its self too bit if the belt breaks

[VL Berlina 5speed]

4 bolts hold the top cover on, very easy too remove

i believe the rb30 is a free spinning engine, the valve wont come in contact with the piston if the belt lets go
but im willing to be corrected

[seans VL Calais]

thats correct as far as im aware sean. and what do you mean inspect it ??? you can inspect it by taking the top cover off BUT just because it looks ok doesnt mean it is. ive changed lots of cam belts that are due if not over due and they still look fine. i have only ever changed 1 that had cracks and you could physically see it was way over due. I have changed 1 or 2 that have snapped and they also had no cracks just snapped, so keep that in mind
at the end of the day in most situations the cam belt is recomended to be changed at 100,000 thousand Ks, best to just go by that

[grazm]

if you remove the drive belts for the pwr steering, aircon, alternator & undo the 4 nuts holding the fan & fan pulley then you should have easy access to the bolts that hold both the upper and lower timing belt covers. This is not a major job, perhaps half hour if you have all the tools ready. To remove the pwr steering & alternator belts first loosen the belts by undoing the alt & p/s adjusting and pivot bolts. To remove the aircon belt, loosen the idler pulley nut and then lower the idler pulley by the adjusting stud on top of the housing directly behind it. Replace the belt if it has done anything like 100K. While you are at it check/replace the camshaft and crankshaft oil seals. Also check the welch plug for any sign of leakage.

[jatsvl]

top cover off is a 10min job as all above have said however it is useless because a visual inspection is no good, 100,000ks thereabouts is your best guide.
the hardest part about doing the timing belt on the rb30 is removing the 26mm bolt holding the crank pulley on and then removing the crank pulley, if you don't have a rattlegun it just makes the job harder.

[harry3]

Ive been told the RB 30 engine is interferrence type, can we clear this up, does anyone know for sure, obviously if it is freewheeling this reduces anxiety about snapping a belt

[ScoHar]

I know this isn't going to help much with RB30, but I know all the twin cam RB engines will snap/bend valves if cambelt goes.