Guys this problem is really starting to get the better of me. i will start my vl and it will run perfectly, now it could be 30secs later or 5 mins later it will start popping and carrying on then may either drop to about 200rpm and continue to run or it will cut out completely. i have tried 2 afm 4 cas an o2 sensor and checked for any vacuum or air leaks and cant nail the problem. when i try to start it after it cuts out it wont start just crank and not fire. could it be the coil? its had a full rebuild, new plugs new leads, thermostat basically everything is new.
something i noticed when i last changed the cas was the little round plate in the dizzy had been scraping on the cas and had marks in it from where it was shaving it off, found little shavings everywhere. its together correctly so i can work out why this would be happening.
I read someone else's post and someone said the brake booster could cause this problem, im yet to bleed my brakes after rebuilding the front end and have no pedal, could this have anything to do with it? As you can see im scratching for answers? Any help would be much appreciated!!!!
I had something very similar happen recently and it turned out to be the injectors, worth a look if you're stumped for ideas...
Mate have you checked the codes on the Electronic Combustion Control System (ECCS commonly know as the computer)?
May be the ECCS could be buggered?
Sometimes the Power Transistor can be stuffed as-well.
I'll try disconnecting them one by one to see if any of them arnt working but it doesn't really run well long enough to do that. not sure how to test injectors the way it is currently running but thanks anyway bloke.
holdfast, i tried that and got no real sense out of it i got about 5 codes then tried resetting and got same again. this current problem is only sense i rebuilt so i wouldn't think it was the eccs itself. the only reason i rebuilt was because the bloke i brought it off was running dam water through it and it was choked up kept over heating. but i have a spare eccs so i will try that. thanx
yeah the plate is damaged i was pretty sure from the start that the problem was in the dizzy. it actually crossed my mind the shaft might be bent. brought a secondhand dizzy that came out of a working motor ill pick it up this week and put it straight in and see what happens. thanx mate i reckon theat will be the problem.
if that plate is damaged that is ALMOST certainly your problem.
other things to consider is the power transistor ( little thing with plug attached)on the distributor.
brake booster will cause the problem IF it has a vacuum leak and belive it or not low trans fluid will also cause similar problems.
next would be engine emmision controls eg, aac valve.
Nobody wants to play with me
I had same problem a few years back...turned out to be inertia pump(Intank Fuel pump) failing/on its way out.
As for your metal disk it would clearly be that causing your probs as the CAS is diode controlled sensors reading the tiny slits in the disk telling the engine when to fire.
thanx guys i was pretty sure that the plate would be the problem. had a spare in the shed it was damaged in the center from removal but had no marks around the outside like the one in the dizzy currently. thought it was a bit odd, question is why is it happening. replacing that dizzy with another one tomorrow ill c what happens!
make sure the disk is put on properly and not flipped i have a thread explaining this Step By Step Guide for Replacing the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) on an RB30
thanx to all you guys that posted thier thoughts. I picked up the new dizzy threw it in and away it went first go. Purrs like a kitten with a throaty cough.![]()