A few probs...

[tombomb]

Hi, fairly new here, fairly certain these haven't been adressed.

First off that black vacuum ball near the front bumper was snatched off when a rather large wombat decided to be bowled over by my vl; i replaced the ball and connected it but the heater flaps don't move - not even a small hiss.

Also, the car doesn't want to take off at 3 thousand, instead it hesitates, ive swapped everything - coil, distributor, leads, etc. could a blockage in exhaust cause this? The tacho tends to bounce around as well during this 'hesitant' period..the car's on duel fuel, but i've swapped all the gas things back to stock to test it and it still didn't go any better.

any help out there would be awesome.. cheers

[detox_nath83]

First of all welcome to Just Commodores
AFM(Air flow Meter) sounds responsible for this,
blockage in exhaust could cause loss of power and fuel economy
as well as the CAS(crank angle sensor) could be starting to fail.
they either go slowly or fast and just die
as well as the AFM
could be the vacuum leak or the kickdown playing up

Have you made sure the vacuum hose has gone on properly on the vac vessel..
i know it sounds stupid but i have done this b4 while reconnecting the vac hose to the ball i did not have it on the barb properly i had it jammed in between the barb and the plastic fins coming off it.
you could use a gauge and see if your getting approx 20-24 psi vac thats what i get
goodluck let us know

[tombomb]

Hey, Thanks a lot for the help so far.
As far as the 'jerking' at 3000 goes, I don't think it's so much related to afm or cas, since I've swapped all that stuff from my spare vl (which goes well, regardless of the parts i swap with it), so I'm fairly stumped.

For the heater controls, I'm quite uneducated on the vacuum system, explanation would be excellent.
Additionally, is it possible that the selector nipples/hoses aren't connected securely?

Thanks again!
p.s - what's a barb, lol?

[detox_nath83]

vacuum is fed from your intake plunum and fed through your firewall to the back of the heater/air con controls 1 vac line in then this line feeds a round vac disk with all other pipes coming off it( then rubber hoses are plumbed to different valves in your air pipes).. so when you move the slider for the air control it turns this disk/valve to divert the vacuum to the selected flaps in your air piping.
A barb is simply a connection where u push on a hose and the barb ridges grip the hose in place http://www.marineengine.com/products...s/2560409C.jpg
so make sure your hose is properly secured to the vacuum vessel (the black ball) and there are no vac leaks. if there are leaks the air controls will not work correctly

[tombomb]

Hey nath, thanks a lot, ah of course that's a barb!
I measured the afm yesterday, and the stickied thread, it says voltage across wire 2 and 4 should be roughly 3.6v (factory). I measured and it's roughly 10v! I'm certain I've measured the correct wires. However, even if this is the case, my paddock bomb vl runs great with any part in it. Do you know any other sources/parts to check for, and can you locate a vacuum leak with out too much hassle?
Thanks again mate, want this annoyance conquered

[Nackerz]

through a vaccum gauge on it at idle you should get about 20

[tombomb]

fair enough. and could the air regulator be responsible at all? i unplugged it while engine was on and nothing changed.. let's crack this biatch!

[tombomb]

YouTube - vl jerky flat spot not going well if you would like to see. quite funny really...

[detox_nath83]

and your certain the AFM is in good working order from other car???
they r very temperemental(spelling) things yeah u should not be getting a voltage of 10v..
did u leave it connected to afm and pulled back rubber boot to test.

[tombomb]

quite certain - its gotta be something else based on the fact that my other car works wonders when these parts are interchanged.. tossing up whether or not to swap engines... and it might not of actually been 10v, the method might have been wrong, which wires are the ones you should probe? oh and by the way just connected vacuum gauge into the plenum - got 15, is that bad? cheers

[Nackerz]

yeah got a vacum leak bro it should be about 20-some get 25

[tombomb]

any helpful hints on fixing this?

[detox_nath83]

you may have to go over your vac lines for cracks and leaks at joiners/ 1 way valves and t-pieces. no leak in ball as well as behind your air controls is a common spot. may have a crack in the air router..
i get 20-23 at idle
goodluck man keep us posted

[tombomb]

hey nath, it's running a lot smoother now. added some earth points!! such an overlooked problem! may be cas related also, many problems = a big problem! thanks a lot.