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Thread: Fast idle

  1. #1
    vlrad Guest

    Default Fast idle

    I need some advice.

    I have replaced - fuel pump, fuel regulator, afm, computer, dissy and coil with ok units 4 weeks ago.

    Car runs for (about 10 minutes) until the engine warms and then the engine stops for 1 or 2 minutes. Then starts. Just before the rpm drops and then goes back to normal. I can almost pick when the engine is about to cut out. It is usually at lights.

    The idle has changed from normal 750rpm to about 1100rpm all by itself.

    3rd injector is leaky - so I figure it sucks air at lower rpm.

    Crap - reading this is sounds like the car is worn out.

    I was just about to add that the car won't start in neutral - sometimes. the computer leds shows this code vl 24 from memory. I think that the sensor for neutral is crap - I hate pulling plastic bits out of the car - I am expoxying up the console after pulling it out to see the shifter.

    I don't know where the sensor for neutral is?

    I don't know if the injector problem would cause the engine to cut out?

    If anyone could tell me what the 02 sensor does - that would be great.

    I figure that the 02 is telling the computer to idle engine at 1100rpm.

    As you can see I am into the technical stuff on a budget. I don't have a 50k vl I have a 2k vl so any help with keeping the vl on the road would be great

    vlrad

  2. #2
    Ride
    VL Commodore

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    95

    Default

    the neutral thing? maybe your talking about the inhibitor switch? i think on the earlier comodores its changes gear with a cable running off of the shifter.
    and i think series 2 the shfter goes into the gearbox?

    the inhibitor switch is on the right hand side of the gearbox.
    the cable runs into it, and you take it off and you have a big hollow hole inside the there is two real tiny tabs either side and the spinny thing from the cable turns them...so i dunno if that helps. i'd think the injector wouldnt help either... like 80 bucks each or something to get a mech to replace

  3. #3
    vlrad Guest

    Default

    Can you replace an injector without removing the fuel rail?? - looks like I can jam one in there - but I worry about breaking the hose from rail to injector (top of injector)

  4. #4
    Ride
    VL SL 86

    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vlrad
    I need some advice.

    I have replaced - fuel pump, fuel regulator, afm, computer, dissy and coil with ok units 4 weeks ago.

    Car runs for (about 10 minutes) until the engine warms and then the engine stops for 1 or 2 minutes. Then starts. Just before the rpm drops and then goes back to normal. I can almost pick when the engine is about to cut out. It is usually at lights.

    The idle has changed from normal 750rpm to about 1100rpm all by itself.

    3rd injector is leaky - so I figure it sucks air at lower rpm.

    Crap - reading this is sounds like the car is worn out.

    I was just about to add that the car won't start in neutral - sometimes. the computer leds shows this code vl 24 from memory. I think that the sensor for neutral is crap - I hate pulling plastic bits out of the car - I am expoxying up the console after pulling it out to see the shifter.

    I don't know where the sensor for neutral is?

    I don't know if the injector problem would cause the engine to cut out?

    If anyone could tell me what the 02 sensor does - that would be great.

    I figure that the 02 is telling the computer to idle engine at 1100rpm.

    As you can see I am into the technical stuff on a budget. I don't have a 50k vl I have a 2k vl so any help with keeping the vl on the road would be great

    vlrad
    Hi, don't know much about replacing injectors, but for the other bits have a look around the mudguard next to the battery.
    Mine has 3 relays, (little boxes with wires out the bottom).
    one of these is the neutral inhibit relay, and one of the others is the reverse polarity relay. These get splashed when the battery is washed in situ, and start to corrode.
    See my post elswhere regarding this relay. Check them out and let us know how you get on.
    Good Luck

  5. #5
    Ride
    VL Crapbox

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    279

    Default

    well your o2 sensor is usually in open loop until car heats up on most cars, not exactly sure on VL. Worth a try to get second from wrecker.

    If you thnink theres a vacuum leak then get a fine little water sprayer like hair dressers use and spray water around and see if idle drops, if so, keep spraying till u find leak.
    If you want more inches, STROKE IT!

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