vl cuts out when warm!?
Hey guys, recently my vl began playing up on me and stuffed if I know whats going on :b:
It runs fine for the first 5-10 minutes but cuts out on me when it warms up. I then have to wait about 15mins before it will start again....so i guess it all points to a temperature related problem.
Originally I thought it was the distributer playing up but a swap over had the same result.
Is it possible that the heat from the engine bay is messing with the electrics of the distributer...or some other electrical component?? coz I know that electrical wires/contacts dont like to be over heated much.
Any help would be great. Thanx
<---Brad Quaid = internet stalker
highly likely its your coil mate. if you can swap your coil pack over with one you know works and see what happens. they are under $100 new i would reccomend new as an s/h might die soon too!
failing that fuel pumps might be next on the list but start with a coil and let us know how it goes.
got a multimeter, ill give you the specs for the coil if u want to test it.
02 sensor maybe? Anyone had that problem. Way to see is if it runs real rich before conking out.
If you want more inches, STROKE IT!
Yeah i got multimeter....that would be good if u could send me the specs.got a multimeter, ill give you the specs for the coil if u want to test it.
02 sensor maybe? Anyone had that problem. Way to see is if it runs real rich before conking out.
I got a spare coil aswell. its second hand but worth a try hey.
<---Brad Quaid = internet stalker
yeah for sure mate use it to see how it goes. since you already have one if it fixes the problem then cheap fix use it!!!
It sounds like the coil someone i know had the same problem. He got it fixed and i'm think it was the wiring connected to the coil but im sure it was something with the coil.
Turn key off and remove lead from other end. Test from pos to neg and it should be 1 ohm. Test from pos to where lead goes and it should be 9000-10000ohms.
If you want more inches, STROKE IT!
My Vl Doing Same Today And Last 2 Months.
I replaced a shit load of parts and it still did it. I replaced pump, regulator - as advised by fuel injection specialist $500 (includes EFI labour) latter it drove for 9 mins instead of 10min.
I replace the air flow metre, crankangle, dizzy and computer before yesterday. I then replaced the inlet manifold (injectors, temp sensors and throt body) - yes the lot.
Yesterday I caught the train to work - VL was that bad.
Plan B
If I had my time over again - this is what I would do
add STP fuel injector 10 bucks
measure variable resistor on afm (pin 6 and pin 2) write down (mine is 149 ohms)
take cap off dizzy - clean centre carbon piece - I used 600wetd - do up rotor screw
replace spark plugs
So far only replaced consumables.
Check feed lack loop
turn computer screw anti clockwise and idle at 2000rpm for 2 minutes - green light should flash every two seconds. If not I check temp sensor on front of manifold. If temp sensor is ok then suspect is oxygen sensor - that is where I am at. No green light flashing and only 0.01 volts on the white wire coming on the 02 sensor. The sensor is meant to give 0.1 to 0.9v - so I really suspect the o2 sensor.
Hey guys i was talking to this electrictian today and he was sayin thats what happens when the ignition module is gone they stop when hot and go again when they cool down. The ignition module hangs off the front of the dissy its like a alloy plate with a round kinda thing on it and a plug with 2 wires on the front.
Lars
well its not the coil......swapped it over and she still doesnt wanna run warm.
I think the ignition module is definitely worth a look into though.... I did a quick search on the net and it seems faulty modules can cause almost the exact same probs as I got. cheers vlcalais11.
I might just go and get a new one and see how we go. will let yez know if i have any luck.
If you're talking about the transitor that changes the pulse from the dizzy into a signal that the computer can read, then I found that I cleaned the plug really well and the car has not missed a beat since.
It's me again - I replaced lots on the motor - I bought a spare VL to practice on - I went to pick the car trailer up yesterday and the car stalled at the service station. I drove the car for 3 hours towing a the spare VL on the car trailer. Well I reckon my car was lonely and just needed a g
- anyway after driving the car for 3 hours it doesn't stop anymore at lights.
Oh and by the way I replaced the oxygen sensor.
Originally Posted by vlrad
how much was the tralier. from kennards or something was it
Half a carton and still going!!! Now thats Economy
Yeh sorry power transistor i ment.
Lars
hey i'm wondering if a faulty coolant temp sensor could also be the problem.
anyone had trouble with these b4?
temp sensor -hmm I thought that but I replaced it and my car still cuts out after 20min. Replaced sensor, afm, coil, computer, dizzy, manifold, injectors, throt body, oxygen sensor.... Computer green led flashes every two seconds (position A on computer screw) which means my o2 sensor and temp sensor works.
I listen for the fuel pump working - I can tune my ear to it. I pull fuse 3??? (no 3 can't see from computer desk - have a look on the inside of the fuse box cover) out and put it back in to hear the fuel load the lines up in around the manifold and also the fuel pump moaning coming from under the back of the car. The fuel pump is know to cut out when it gets hot. If I have less than half a tank of full then my car cuts out just as the temp gauge goes from the 1st notch to the 2nd notch.
Another thing that got my old wreck going - the one I bought to practice on. Car hadn't run for 4 months and previous owner couldn't start it. I got it started on two cylinders. It ran for 20 minutes on 5 cylinders and then stoped. I changed the relays around from things like the horn and the aircondition to the efi and fuel relay - I checked that the numbers on the relays XXXXX451(I remember) were the same. Anyway the car started back up again better than before - 6 cylinders.
Another thing that I just realised - slow left hand corners are always about 250metres just before the car stops. If fuel is less than half tank, air might be getting into the fuel lines, being pumped up to the engine. After the car stops when I try to start it - it is like it is getting fuel again, gradually though- if it was electrical then the car would just go on with a turn of the key after 10 minutes. When it starts to cut out - it is like a light bulb flickering or like it is swollowing air instead of fuel.
yeah the same thing happens to me.... for about 5 mins before it cuts out it starts misfiring (kinda like the flickering light bulb).
Also now that ya mention it, a few times i have just been sitting in my car with the ignition ON waiting for the car to cool down, when all of a sudden i hear the fuel pump kick back in!! wtf?! surely that doesnt mean the pump(s) need replacing does it, coz they seem to work fine when cold. funny thing is its its prolly such a simple problem
Try changing the horn relay or other xxxxx451 to your fuel relay - make sure same number of relays that is both xxxxxx451. This fixed mine a little while.
take plugs off your injectors and spray some water dispersant in them/ or contact cleaner.. allow 5-10 mins, plugem bak up and give it a go. may just have moisture build-up
my VL cut out again today - went and saw the EFI specialist, again - he just said flog the car off and buy one from him - no ethics, but I would say plenty of dollars. He should stopping advertising as repair and go into sales.
Last thing I did was got the oxygen sensor talking to computer - today another potential fix - I got the red light to flash in time with the green one (2000rpm and position A on computer screw). VL's computers, if have problem run mix rich. I reckon that I was running rich all the time.
When the car was cold the car loved it. When the car got hotter the mix was way to rich for the thinner air. I think this because if the car stopped, I would pull fuse 3, turn the key - staving the motor of fuel. Put the fuse 3 back in and the car would start straight away.
Going for a test drive at 9.30 tonight - think I have it this time.
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