VL Calais no start when warmed up

[Degeko]

Before i took my VL off the road for a respray i had no problems, During the respray everything including engine and wiring were removed.
When everything was installed it started fine but after the last few weeks it wont start at all when its at operating temp (no spark) but once you start it cold it will run until it warms up and then idles rough,If you turn it off and try to restart again warm it wont fire at all.

Ive replaced AFM (new) CAS including new plug (new) PT (new) coil (new), New EFI relay, Tried another 3TA ECU but nothing makes a difference.
Im pretty much at the point where everything has been replaced and the fault still exists, Only thing i can think of is the engine loom is stuffed or something. Or possible the CAS but its brand new, Maybe i got a dud.
Any ideas would be great as im ready to burn the thing.

[vk.jonno]

charged the battery? :P

[jatsvl]

it really sounds like a cas problem the only other thing I can think of would be the transistor on the side of the distributor.
I know you have replaced them both but that is what it sounds like.

uhh! what about an air leak between the afm and the throttle body? as the engine bay heats up causing the intake tube to expand or contract opening up a join allowing air in.
or as you have suggested a faulty connection in the wiring loom.

[Degeko]

Ive put in another CAS and the PT is firing the coil but only after a fair few cranks, I know my battery is shagged as i have to charge it after every attempt at starting it.
The fault seems to have changed a bit cause it runs rough at idle, If you try to get the rev's up it has a bit of a flat spot and is fine at 2000 rpm then it will idle for a while then the revs will surge up and down like its trying to correct itself.
I will put a new battery in today and see if it makes a difference.

[Degeko]

Replaced the battery and all is good, Who would have though that would cause these sort of problems.

[detox_nath83]

check your alternator as well man just for piece of mind..... so you dont drain your new battery/...
get a multimeter on volts and check the battery posts when car is at idle you should have around 14.2 volts meaning your alternator is fine,.,,, when u switch of your car the volts will drop slightly to around 12volt
if u have a low reading at idle the alternator is stuffed basically under 14volts your alternator has blown some power diodes and is on its way out...
goodluck
and well done all is fixed,,,