I've been told that there is a solt in the rear hub to adjust the brakes, not! There is no slot in the back of the hub and I need to change the shoes so the handbrake will work
there is no slot but if you pull drums off and adjust brakes up so you can just get the drum back on and rotate it by hand, handbrake should work.
If you want more inches, STROKE IT!
Thanxs, i'll try that. one thing though i adjusted the handbrake cable by tighten the two nuts, should i release the tension first then readjust?
yup definitely. Handbrake cable forces the bottom part of the shoes out, you will wear this part out first unless you adjust the top out properly and then the handbrake will cause the whole shoe to make contact with the crum @ the same time.
If you want more inches, STROKE IT!
cool thanks heaps, but after talking to a few people i'm afraid to do the job cause they refuse to touch commodore rear brakes and after looking at the inside and all those springs i think a pro should tackle this.
i recommend you dont listen to whever you have been speaking to commo brakes are a pop so go for it and do it yourself i bet you dont have any trouble at all. just remeber thow the hub wont come off with the handbrake on :b:
Dont touch the springs m8, all you have to do is adjust the brakes out, inside there behind the drum you will see the shoes. They both touch the wheel cylinder which is the thing with the brake fluid lines running into it, below that is the adjuster, its kinda brass/chrome looking if you took the dust off and is shaped like a cylinder with forks either end locking onto the shoes. There will be a part at the centre of it with notches on it and its threaded on the inside. You want to move it so more thread is showing. Move it about 8-10 notches at first and try to put drum back on, if its lose, do it 2-3 notches at a time until the drum sits snug on there.
If you want more inches, STROKE IT!
and its best not to breathe the dust. most asbestos pads are finished with now though the dust is still bad for you.
Xcelent info guys, but are you saying not to replace the pads if thers alittle meat left but the handbrakes don't work,(at all), and by doing this it will cure the prob or this is done to the new pads to propely adjust them. Sorry but this will be my first time attempting drums, pads are a snap!![]()
does the handbrake possibly need adjustment? it should (wel here by law) only move 6 clicks from disengaged to a 'reasonable, functioning position'.
i know when i did mine it worked heaps better. its another angle to work from anyway!
3-4 clicks after adjustment, i know what im doing so i do mine to 2 to start with but hey, i wear shoes quicker.
If they are worn on the bottom part more which is usually the case when people dont adjust them enough, make sure you have atleast 3mm, say 4 for your sake, they crack off chunks @ 1-2mm but 4mm will give you about 15000kms atleast, accounting for the odd driving with the H/brake on 1 click.
Check both sides before making the decision ok.
If you want more inches, STROKE IT!
.... or rip the whole lot off and do a disc brake conversion....
If only i could be that motivated man, i wish i shared your passion.Originally Posted by vlv8vic
You know drum brakes are quite good, they do hold more heat but then they dont fail anywhere near as much as pads do. For that reason im keeping mine.
If you want more inches, STROKE IT!
Guess what guys?, took the hub off after buying new shoes to see that there's plenty of pad left, did the adjustment to that screw and BAM! I now have E-brakes. The only thing is i lost my lock key for the lugs so i only did the left side. But for now it's all good, I hope. So thanks for the advice![]()
is the drum brake to disc brake a huge conversion? i reckon just commodores needs a "HOW TO.." on the subject... mind you i actually hacent looked for it lol.
how hard is it to adjust the hand brake?
my mate did it to his landrover but i was 3/4 thru a slab and was too busy talkn garbage to watch him.