A little help please

[vlrad]

an
My VL is still cutting out after 7km or 10min - same problem I raised month ago in this forum.

I have been ripped off by a EFI mechanic/bought another car for testing and read threads religiously for the last month.

I spend my days pulling components out of the car and replacing - so far have replace:
internal full pump
fuel regulator
dizzy
CAS
leads
power transitor
complete manifold (all sensors, injectors and throt)
oxygen sensor
computer
afm
exteral fuel pump
filter

Today I pulled the tank out and am in the process of cleaning it and replacing breether lines

There is another new guy that has a similar problem - in that computer codes appear but I'm not that confident that they are diagnosing anything - the old thread is not there on how to get the codes out.

Three settings on the compu screw. Postion A, then middle setting and then Diagnostic.

I can see that feed back is good - position A.
I read the thread on how to eliminate or cancel out codes once they appear in diagnostic mode.

When I'm testing I can do this.

When I'm driving the car stops = WHERE SHOULD I HAVE THE COMPUTER SCREW SET TO IF I WANT TO CAPTURE WHAT IS HAPPENING. I am reading three codes after the car stops but I'm not confident that these are faults.

I will spend another day on the fuel and after that another day on replacing the wiring harness.

[rimz81]

Have you replaced the ignition coil?They can cut out once they have warmed up.try checking all electrical connectors also :b:

[vlrad]

3 coils.
I think it may be the wiring or the new internal fule pump was a dud

[harry3]

if it starts again later after cutting out it may be a rubber section of the fuel hose kinking shut due to becoming warmed and softening the rubber, it unkinks on cooling

this happened on my VL, a section of the fuel hose had been replaced with a long piece that was curved but not secured, no more problems since securing it

there are 2 specially shaped rubber hose sections near the external fuel pump and both will eventually burst due to age, the higher one is no longer available and its recommended that it be replaced with a long section of straight hose, which had happened on mine

change the fuel filter as these eventually block

[rimz81]

When it cuts out do you have spark and fuel?

[Bucket]

please let us know, can you run the car in the driveway and then tell us if you have spark and fuel.

If no fuel, start at fuel filter (or fuel rail), leave hose off and put ignition on run, see if its coming out.

If no spark, see if spark comes out from coil to eliminate distributer.

You need to isolate the issue rather than patch it, no offence to how you have got this far, you may well be right to replace some of those items but it shouldn't be anywhere near that many.

I never go by the code, go by the symtoms and isolate the bug matey, keep this post fresh with what you find, we'll stick with it.

BTW i noticed u haven't done the ECU yet, dont go swapping yet but if you have a spare it may come in handy.

Will the car run with the AFM disconnected?
Do you get any poor running at all first like poor idle or shuddering for any duration of time or does it just cut straight out?
Does the car start again while warm or only when cooled down?

[coolngroovy]

i,ve struck a similar drama.Turned out to be the crankangle sensor.When it gets hot,the mongrel just stops.Then when it cools, away we go again.

[HsvPlayBoy]

Hey Bro try the Crank angle sensor if its not that try looking for The Nissan cancer witch is the wireing loom from the dizzy look at the inside connecters if they are green give them a light brush with one of them $2 wire brushes from a jap shop also check the rotor Button too mate Cheer hope it Helps Hsvplayboy

[coolngroovy]

sounds strange, but if you gike the terminals on the ecu, a rub with a biro eraser,& then blow the crap out, it just might work! No guarantees but! All it does is clean the terminals. Old computer technitian trick!