i jusyt put a new head on my vl calais, it turns over over but wont fire, it had a cracked head and was still running prior to the change, if anyone could help?
Cheers..
Some more info needed m8, id proly guess a chance that something on the ignition side isnt hooked up right but lets explore.
Can you answer these for me
1. Take fuel line off injector rail and turn key to run, make sure you have fuel coming out.
2. Do you have spark coming from the spark plug lds -> if no check spark from coil -> if no check coil is getting power.
3. If you are getting fuel and spark, look at timing with timing light first, when its turning, is it sparking for cylinder 1 on the correct mark or any mark at ao Harmonic balancer...
If no, take timing cover off and make sure timing marks line up properly and then put no 1 cylinder on TDC and recheck dizzy lines up on no 1. cylinder ( to get no 1 cylinder on TDC with timing cover on, take no 1 spark plug out and put finger over hole, have someone turn key so starter just cranks engine for 0.5 of a second at a time until your finger gets blown off, put screw driver down hole onto piston and rock crank back and forward till screw driver comes out the furtherest.)
If it sounds like it wants to kick and then all of a sudden it sounds like the crank wants to stop and go the other way, thats a giveaway the timing sequence is out or timing is missaligned.
If you want more inches, STROKE IT!
cheers heaps guys ill get to work on it tomorrow an update u gur a champion damn sick of paying mechanics
Even make sure everythings connected a few times before you worry too much, could be as simple as an unplugged afm or loose inlet connection.
if it wont start with AFM disconnected, apparently thats the idle circuit shot in the ECU, spoke to the injector guy on the weekend and he gave me that one... idle should sit there when u unplug, then slowly rise, if it stalls, idle circuit gone in ECU.
If you want more inches, STROKE IT!
did you degrease the motor? if so, could be dirty reader in dizzy.
Aint there dots on the cam and crank to line the belt up????
If this is ok.
This is how I got my car going.
Changed inlet and outlet fuel lines to make sure they were right way around.
Cranked engine over moving dizzy by hand through 30 degrees.
Started on one cylinder and then on all 6 after 10 minutes. Mind you the manifold I used was 10 years since use. - should have seen the crap come out the exhaust
System one
spark has to jump 10mm in air - from end of lead to body (compression is about 10 to 1 in engine so the same no of air molecules in 1mm sparkplug gap as 10mm air gap).
System two
Fuel has to be 300kpascals. That is 3 atmospheres. Only cheap way is to feel if fuel hoses feel like have 3 times normal pressure - they feel stiff and harder than no pressure. And can hear pump when engine running or when ignition first turned on.
I can turn ignition on with fuse number 3 out, sitting in car. I walk around the car to fuse box. Lean over the car and put my ear near the fuel rail. I then put fuse 3 in and I can hear the fuel rail and hoses become presurised - like a fridge moaning sound.
System 3
I am going to buy a "noid" light from repco 22bucks - it plugs straight into an injector plug and I can see when the injector would receive a pulse to open and let fuel in.
If injectors are asleep then have a look at the little tinny relay next to the battery- this is the earth for the injectors and sometimes is corroded out. I used a paperclip to bypass the black/white wire to ground - I studed the relay diagram on the side of the relay to see which pins needed to be connected.