Just curious on a few things here guys. Got a project underway but the finer details are kinda hush-hush. But I will say it's going to be turboed and A VL
1. I know engines ending in A8 are the original turbo motors. What is actually different on these? I'm guessing injectors, but are other things strengthened at all or would I be able to bolt a few upgrades onto an A6 motor and have the same thing?
2. An Auto ECU will work perfectly fine with a manual, correct?
3. What would people's recommendations be for a good turbo to use?
4. It seems that an RB30 handles 7PSI pretty well. What sort of things would you guys recommend strengthening or replacing with better parts to run 9PSI or 12PSI? Obviously fuel pump would be obvious.
5. When buying an RB30 what are some good things to look out for that will tell me the engine is decent or crap?
6. When buying a turbo what are some good things to look out for that will tell me the ending is decent or crap?
Cheers guys!
VX2 Executive Sedan - 3.8L Auto (for now)VT SS Sedan - Supercharged V6 Auto (Genuine L67 SS)VN SS Sedan - 5.0L 5 Speed Manual (Currently Balga spec waiting for panel and paint)
1. I know engines ending in A8 are the original turbo motors. What is actually different on these? I'm guessing injectors, but are other things strengthened at all or would I be able to bolt a few upgrades onto an A6 motor and have the same thing?
[internaly not much just pistons from memory]
2. An Auto ECU will work perfectly fine with a manual, correct?
3. What would people's recommendations be for a good turbo to use?
[depends on what power you want to make.hi flows are good entry level]
4. It seems that an RB30 handles 7PSI pretty well. What sort of things would you guys recommend strengthening or replacing with better parts to run 9PSI or 12PSI? Obviously fuel pump would be obvious.
[wouldnt have to change to much to run 7-12 psi.injectors would be good for 11-12 psi as same with ecu]
5. When buying an RB30 what are some good things to look out for that will tell me the engine is decent or crap?
6. When buying a turbo what are some good things to look out for that will tell me the ending is decent or crap?
[the front wheel check for play.you can have minimal side to side play but if it has forward backward play stay away]
Cheers guys!
Oil pump is different, Pistons as well, there is a decomp Plate b/w Head and Block as well as Cam is different to allow more exhaust for turbo, Fuel Reg, Injectors for larger pulse width,
Auto ECU is fine for manual, but go a 3TA(Turbo Auto) or a 3TM(Turbo Manual) to run turbo injectors.
there isnt a decomp head gasket on an a8.
head itself is same as n/a.
99% sure vl regs are all the same
i knwo if u want more power outta ur a8 you use the nah intake because its bigger and an xf throttle body well i did and seemed to flow better and boost hit harder.. i ran 16 psi threw mine with a fmic stock fuel pump for 2 years and nevere had a drama...also i just ran a rb25 turbo on mine duno if there different or not but thats all i had..
Cheers for the answers guys! So if I can manage to get my hands on an A8 motor I should use the NA intake and an XF throttle body? And if an A6 is much much cheaper I should grab a Turbo computer from eBay, change the injectors and the throttle body?
I'm looking for a turbo that is going to kick in at about 2000-2500RPM and I'm hoping to run a minimum of 9PSI. So a little bit of left/right/up/down play is okay but the wheel shouldn't move backwards/forwards in the snail?
I'm trying to do this project properly but without spending too much money. It's going to be a car to promote my business at car scene events but being a new business that isn't even launched yet I don't have ridiculous amounts of money to spend right away.
VX2 Executive Sedan - 3.8L Auto (for now)VT SS Sedan - Supercharged V6 Auto (Genuine L67 SS)VN SS Sedan - 5.0L 5 Speed Manual (Currently Balga spec waiting for panel and paint)
get a garret to4e turbo, good price and a good turbo... comes on @2000 rpm,
Or a gt3540
fuel regs are all the same. im running 10 psi with stock computer and injectors, just have a front mount. i can run 12 safely to, injectors are pretty much maxing out on 12 but still is safe mixture. i just run 10 daily.
currently im looking at the following..ford xr 6 injectors a high rise manifold and agt3540... it cheap and effective when coupled with a 5 speed and lsd..ill be runnign 18 all day every day
add an aftermarket ecu and soon after forgies and cam.not so cheap lol
So I should be able to run 10PSI though one of the turbos suggested above (spooling at 2 or 2.5k) and still keep the stock ECU and injectors? Anyone have a rough ball park figure of the RWKW I'd achieve with a 5 speed and 4.11 lock diff???
Cheers again for all your help, guys!
VX2 Executive Sedan - 3.8L Auto (for now)VT SS Sedan - Supercharged V6 Auto (Genuine L67 SS)VN SS Sedan - 5.0L 5 Speed Manual (Currently Balga spec waiting for panel and paint)
ive seen and hurd of a couple of manuals making around the 200rwkw but highly doubt you would get over that.maybe 170-190 on 10 psi
and yes you can keep those injectors and ecu at that psi you wana run.
Awesome, cheers for that, mate. Eventually I'd like to do it all properly with a strengthened and rebuilt motor but not just yet. My mate is running 7PSI with standard diff ratio in his wagon and its pretty quick so 10PSI with 4.11s should keep me happy for a while... as long as I can beat him I'm happy!
VX2 Executive Sedan - 3.8L Auto (for now)VT SS Sedan - Supercharged V6 Auto (Genuine L67 SS)VN SS Sedan - 5.0L 5 Speed Manual (Currently Balga spec waiting for panel and paint)