stopping cuting out when warm

[vlrad]

Trying to keep this topic alive as is old problem but a few members still have this problem

SYMPTOM - ENGINE CUTS OUT AFTER 10MINUTES AND AT RANDOM

I found the old CAS was getting hot.

The exhaust manifold was way too hot.

The shield was way too hot after 5 minutes.
If I spat on it - it would get 'on set boiling' that means like bear on a BBQ hot plate the liquid would turn to a ball and dance around on its own layer of vapour.


So I reckon after rebuilding half the car and electrics that the CAS is still getting to hot.

I know this because when it cuts out I spray WD40 on the back of the dizzy and then the car starts heats up and then cuts out again. I do this 3 times and then I do it without WD and it won't start.

I reckon that the bearing is a source of heat as well as dust.

Anyone got the specs on the bearing - I posted another threat and will keep breakdown members posted so that they can spend a sunday driving around to window shop or sound systems and paint once they get they car working.

THANKS BUCKET FOR ALL YOU POSTINGS - HELPED HEAPS

[Bucket]

read this man, see if its similar at all, go to the

"A Retard!" and "WHO SAID THEY CAN ONLY HAVE ONE PROBLEM!"
section at


http://www.fueltech.com.au/trade_vehicletips.html and see what u think...

Also read this

VL Commodore Engine Cutting Out
Engine cutting out under all driving conditions. Switch into Power Mode by pressing switch on t-bar. You will notice the power light will come on at the instrument cluster. Now road test the car. When the engine dies you will notice that the power light will turn off as well. The problem is either a faulty auto trans ECU or just a dry solder on the board. You can wiggle the connections to the trans ECU as an intermittent fix, located under driver's side dash area.

From: Ben A

http://www.justcommodores.com.au/articles/vl.php

[vlrad]

BUCKET - YOU ARE THE MAN/LEGEND

I had installed a black CAS dissy - I replaced whole dizzy today.

The old girls kicks now. With a little lean on the car (around a corner) I even get wheel spin. Operating temperature is right down. I took off the heat shield and scrubbed it clean. My test for heat was spit on the heat shield - the spit didn't go into a boiling frenzy.

So here is my new test (no oscilloscope/ electronics analysis gear needed):
Spit on heat shield near dizzy - spit goes into dancing ball - need new CAS
Spit on heat shield near dizzy - spit sits - CAS not getting that hot.

[Bucket]

*puckers up for big kiss*