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Thread: RB30et build.

  1. #1
    sik_dose is offline Hybrids. Cars for fools.
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    Default RB30et build.

    My series 2 N/A RB30 engine was delivered yesterday, ive got in in the garage on an engine stand and have stared striping her down. Any one else built an RB30et recently? Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated.

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    Ahh sick. are u in brisbane.. i was thinking about building a turbo engine from a series 2 block. are you sticking with the standard pistons or buying some forged ones?

  3. #3
    sik_dose is offline Hybrids. Cars for fools.
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    Im in Wollongong NSW. Im more than likely going forged pistons, I want to run a T4/T3 turbo. What are the advantges of running forged pistons? and can i stick with the stock conrods and crank?

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    VN_Luke's Avatar
    VN_Luke is offline ƃuoɹʍ ʇsnɾ sı sıɥʇ
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    what's your budget like? how much power are you hoping for?

    if you want under 300rwkw, I'd recommend just keeping it stock - make sure it's got all good comp and that though.

    if the comp is down either find another with good comp, or just get some cast pistons and new rings + bore/hone.

    If you got the cash, (without getting into weights etc) - forgies can be of benefit that they might make your engine last a little bit longer if things go sour and you end up getting a bit of detonation, due to their strength. A set of forgies will set you back about a thousand bucks with rings - machine work, etc will cost you about 2g's all up.

    considering engines are about 150 each - it means you'd have to lunch 13 unlucky motors before it becomes worth it
    Truth be told - if your tune is up to scratch, you'll be doing well to lunch even one.

    Anyway - a basic 'build' for me would include:

    - stock 9.0:1 comp bottom end
    - stock head (or ported if you got the cash - decent gains to be made here)
    - a cam to suit your application (you'll get massive gains with the right cam)
    - MLS style head gasket
    - ARP head studs
    - good quality turbo (don't skimp on this)
    - decent size injectors & fuel pump
    - ECU like a haltech or nistune or similar.

    I've done a fair bit of experimenting with stocker rb30's, and in my experience they're a pretty tuff unit. The last one I had on the dyno was a dead stock $150 250,000km wrecker motor, with head studs and a MLS gasket, and made roughly 300rwkw on 23-24psi - it put up with a lot of abuse etc and it's still loving life ready to be my experiment motor for LPG

    The standard head and cam really seems to choke when you wind a bit of boost on there - after about 15psi the torque curve starts flattening out where it's really struggling to move the air through. I reckon a good cam will fix that, though

  5. #5
    sik_dose is offline Hybrids. Cars for fools.
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    Quote Originally Posted by VN_Luke View Post
    what's your budget like? how much power are you hoping for?

    if you want under 300rwkw, I'd recommend just keeping it stock - make sure it's got all good comp and that though.

    if the comp is down either find another with good comp, or just get some cast pistons and new rings + bore/hone.

    If you got the cash, (without getting into weights etc) - forgies can be of benefit that they might make your engine last a little bit longer if things go sour and you end up getting a bit of detonation, due to their strength. A set of forgies will set you back about a thousand bucks with rings - machine work, etc will cost you about 2g's all up.

    considering engines are about 150 each - it means you'd have to lunch 13 unlucky motors before it becomes worth it
    Truth be told - if your tune is up to scratch, you'll be doing well to lunch even one.

    Anyway - a basic 'build' for me would include:

    - stock 9.0:1 comp bottom end
    - stock head (or ported if you got the cash - decent gains to be made here)
    - a cam to suit your application (you'll get massive gains with the right cam)
    - MLS style head gasket
    - ARP head studs
    - good quality turbo (don't skimp on this)
    - decent size injectors & fuel pump
    - ECU like a haltech or nistune or similar.

    I've done a fair bit of experimenting with stocker rb30's, and in my experience they're a pretty tuff unit. The last one I had on the dyno was a dead stock $150 250,000km wrecker motor, with head studs and a MLS gasket, and made roughly 300rwkw on 23-24psi - it put up with a lot of abuse etc and it's still loving life ready to be my experiment motor for LPG

    The standard head and cam really seems to choke when you wind a bit of boost on there - after about 15psi the torque curve starts flattening out where it's really struggling to move the air through. I reckon a good cam will fix that, though
    My budget is what ever it takes its a project ive been wanting to do for about a year. I want to make 300rwkw, What sort of fuel pump and injectors shoud i be using? What sort of cam would you recomend? and what sort of turbo is best for the type of power i want to make?

  6. #6
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  7. #7
    sik_dose is offline Hybrids. Cars for fools.
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    sik_dose is offline Hybrids. Cars for fools.
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    Ive got it striped to the block. Im starting with the bottom end.

    Rebore and hone block
    grind crank
    polish crank
    acid clean block
    forged ACL pistosn and rings
    forged conrods
    ACL race series conrod beairngs
    ACL race series main beairng
    Full ACL race series gasket set

    thats looking like around $3000.

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  10. #10
    sik_dose is offline Hybrids. Cars for fools.
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    I have just pulled appart the oil pump and all looks in order. What oil pressure shoud i be running in a turbo motor? and is it true the pressure can be increased by replacing the spring inside the oil pump?

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