what's your budget like? how much power are you hoping for?
if you want under 300rwkw, I'd recommend just keeping it stock - make sure it's got all good comp and that though.
if the comp is down either find another with good comp, or just get some cast pistons and new rings + bore/hone.
If you got the cash, (without getting into weights etc) - forgies can be of benefit that they might make your engine last a little bit longer if things go sour and you end up getting a bit of detonation, due to their strength. A set of forgies will set you back about a thousand bucks with rings - machine work, etc will cost you about 2g's all up.
considering engines are about 150 each - it means you'd have to lunch 13 unlucky motors before it becomes worth it

Truth be told - if your tune is up to scratch, you'll be doing well to lunch even one.
Anyway - a basic 'build' for me would include:
- stock 9.0:1 comp bottom end
- stock head (or ported if you got the cash - decent gains to be made here)
- a cam to suit your application (you'll get massive gains with the right cam)
- MLS style head gasket
- ARP head studs
- good quality turbo (don't skimp on this)
- decent size injectors & fuel pump
- ECU like a haltech or nistune or similar.
I've done a fair bit of experimenting with stocker rb30's, and in my experience they're a pretty tuff unit. The last one I had on the dyno was a dead stock $150 250,000km wrecker motor, with head studs and a MLS gasket, and made roughly 300rwkw on 23-24psi - it put up with a lot of abuse etc and it's still loving life ready to be my experiment motor for LPG
The standard head and cam really seems to choke when you wind a bit of boost on there - after about 15psi the torque curve starts flattening out where it's really struggling to move the air through. I reckon a good cam will fix that, though
