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Thread: New Engine Advice?!?!

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    Exclamation New Engine Advice?!?!

    ok guys.. as most of you know.. my car is up shit creek at the moment, having a blown head gasket and all.. i've decided on getting a new old motor from the wreckers.. $350 for a good one with 3 months warranty.. i plan on putting it in at home with my dad.. he is an expert at changing the older engines.. (toranas, eh, etc..) i know this is a lot more difficult as it has fuel injection and is all electronic with computer, etc.. so any advice, tips, anything.. please let me know.. i dont have $400 to let a pro do it.. also from my last thread, something about a wire loom? pls let me know what this is.. any general tips? i have never done this before.. so im pretty much relying on you guys.. thanks heaps...
    also remember im a noob so pls dont get to technical with words.. lol thx
    I wonder what those scales on the top right side of my posts do...

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    well as far as i can see if your going from a rb30e to rb30e.. there won't be anything needed to be changed, disconnect everything, label it on both sides of the connection. then take the old engine out, put the new one in. connect the labels and use the old engine labels as a reference.

    everything should line up.

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    I suggest before you go tearing things to pieces,invest $50 in a max ellery workshop manual.Worth every cent!

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    Yep get the manual and Bextor's 100%, if you label absolutely everything (if you don't know what it is give it a number), you'll have an engine out of the car covered in notes saying where to put what (wish I did this with the VH lol)

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    thanks guys.. also im thinking of getting a nissan engine instead coz apparently they are better and are exactly the same.. any suggestions? do i need to replace the computer?
    I wonder what those scales on the top right side of my posts do...

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    k got my new engine.. $200 delivered, the old one is out.. jus having trouble taking off the fly wheel/. any suggestions.. then i can get started on the new one.. the fly wheel is still attatched to the engine and i need 2 put it on the new one before i put it in???
    I wonder what those scales on the top right side of my posts do...

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    $200 and no box... w000t. Nar she'll be right. The torque convertor bolts prob have loctite on them which you will need to re-do when you put on new motor. Its a liquid thats like liquid-nails for bolt threads so they dont come undone in a hurry as you may have witnessed. Lock the flywheel up somehow and put a pipe over the end of the wratchet to get some leverage if you have to but i always loosened mine off while still on the car using the biggest stanley(insert plug for company here) screw driver to lock the flywheel up and just used a ring spanner on the bolts.

    Eat your weeties son before you have another crack.
    If you want more inches, STROKE IT!

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    Damn right, its all about the leverage... Get the biggest socket you can and slip a pipe over it to get even more leverage on the sucker.

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    no locktight then no go - i have had to pull a box out before because I did take my time putting the flywheel on with locktight

  11. #11
    vlrad Guest

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    I either use a pipe over the rachet or I use a big ringspanner on the end of the rachet

    To stop the flywheel turning I put one of the bolts for the gearbox in and then I sit a screwdriver on this bolt and the tip of the screwdriver sits in the teeth of the flywheel.

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    hey guys.. all systems are go.. its running like a dream.. slight problem just had leads in wrong order so the firing order was ****ed.. alll fixed now.. thx heaps u guys..
    getting an exhaust 2moro.. either 2 1/2 all the way or a 3 all the way? which one should i go? my car is not lowered so it wont scrape along the floor.. will i lose power with a 3?
    I wonder what those scales on the top right side of my posts do...

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    got exactly that except no extractors, and its got a 3 inch chromed down tip
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