the only way we can get my vl to turn over is by shorting the starter motor out now we have a switch to start the car and the power button wont work either now what could it be ..?
Check the wiring loom that goes to your trans. It may be corroded or have come unplugged. there should be a plug under the bonnet near your brake master cylinder and booster so unplug it and check to see if the terminals are corroded.
It could be just a blown fuse too so check them all.
The reason it wont start is probably because it is not getting a signal back from the neautral safety switch on the gear selector. You should have the gear selector in park or neautral for it to start normally when everything is working correctly.
The wiring for the power mode switch is on the same loom as the neautral safety switch so this is why i think the problem will be there somewhere.
yeah neutral safety switch.ceck the plug as above and evan spray wd40 in plug as it may be a bit oily etc
when you check the neutral safety, wiggle the gear lever as you try starting the car, sometimes it can be touchy is all
cheers, the plug seems fine but the other end goes into the trans and i dont know how to disconect it .
check fuses
then check if starter relay is clicking
if not clicking try swapping relay or replace if this still wont click you have no ignition signal or p-n switch is inop
Sorry to hijack this thread, my VL's doing a similar thing at the mo. It's been converted to manual (before I bought it). Just over a month ago I started de-looming the engine bay, first up i hid all the headlight wires behind the guards, when I had done that I hooked up the battery and they worked fine.
Because it's no longer manual, I chopped all the plugs off that used to be for the Auto Trans, (NOTE I did keep the thicker purple wire - the one that goes from the ignition switch down to the starter motor). Hooked up the battery again and everything started fine.
Then I started the process of moving the battery to the boot, chopped all the leads coming off the positive side of the battery and re-routed them to run behind the brake booster and down the firewall then out to the engine (starter motor + alternator).
Then ran an 8Gauge cable from the starter to the alternator, then a 4gauge cable from the alternator to power the rest of the car's electrics.
At that stage I hadn't moved the battery yet, so (I am 90% sure! - it was a few weeks ago now) I hooked it back up to make sure the car started and it was fine.
Then I put the battery in the boot, ran a 35mm sq cable from it directly to the starter motor. Another 35mm cable from battery negative down the the floor of my boot (sanded a big spot back to bare metal).
So finally that was all done, I hooked up the battery, fuel pumps primed, starter motor turned over as normal, but the car wouldn't fire up, I tried it 5 or so times but it sputtered once or twice and that was it, kept cranking but wouldn't fire.
So I pulled out #1 spark plug (lead still on), held it against an earth point, got my brother to turn the key and nothing happened. absolutely nothing (i think the fuel pumps primed but that was it), starter motor solenoid didnt click or anything. didnt turn over, nothing.
Then I did a diagnostic on the ecu, from what I gathered, it said there was a fault with the Throttle Valve Switch or something. Had a look in my workshop manual at the wiring diagrams, it seems as if that switch is connected to the Auto Trans Ecu, (my Auto Trans Ecu is still in the car).
But that's as far as I got, I wouldn't have a clue what to do from here, any ideas?
bridge park nuetral switch wires at the plug on the auto for the selector position
as in its always in park or nuetral and will always start eliminate the wiring you cut off one at a time
like if any LITTLE wires were attached to you power cable in the engine bay they stilll need to be attached to positive
sounds like you just missed something in the boot battery conversion