VLT Diff seal problem
I have a problem.. I'm looking at buying a disc diff but the guy selling it said he has blown the seals and it needs new wheel bearings. Apparently it was damaged from when he went up a gutter. there is no visable damage at all and nothing looks bent but i still want to check for damage. Around how much could it be to get a diff shop to replace the seals and check the condition of the diff? the diff tag says; P/N 92030910. ratio: 3.45. so its a vl turbo diff.
Another VL Driver
Sea Dogs Champion!
hopefully the seats have not been damaged or warped.
would not know on price as such but u said apparently its damaged...
has it got moisture around the axel ends(wheel end). hopefully the axel flutes are good u could get a bearing kit to suit Vl Disk rear end $70 - 90 at repco/Auto 1 and press on the collars/bearings and seat the seals. (need access to a press)
so to answer your question u need to go in to a diff Mech and find out yourself.. do a ring around and find the best price.
Hey man thanks for the info. I really dont know anything about diffs and their components ut im capable of pulling it apart and giving it a checkover and measuring each side etc. Can you tell me what is where and what to check. i'll go over there and pull it apart. the diff did have oil on it but i dont know where it was coming from i just dragged it out by the axels. whats the worst case scenario damage wise?
The pic is of behind all the brakes. like the backing plate or dust plate thing. He said he has no idea but those few bolts might have got bent. everything looks fine. i'll have to go over and pull the ends off the diff somehow.. he only wants about $180 for the diff so hopefully its an easy fix
Last edited by 88-SERIES200; 10-04-2011 at 10:52 PM.
Another VL Driver
Sea Dogs Champion!
hmmm looks like seal man worst case is the seal seat is damaged or the axle is bent.... pull of caliper and disk. unbolt 4 bolts that hold axel in(through the stud plate little socket hole). slide on disk backwards put on 2 nuts loosely just a few thread turns on opposite studs and use disk as a slide hammer style and yank the axle out.. can be tough but u will get it. then u can either see if the seat is damaged or the seal is just chewed out, but does not look good
fuuuuck.. good idea with the disc. thanks for the help. if the seat is damaged (i dont quite know what the seat is) can i easily or cheaply replace it? i'll see if i can do it tomorrow and then i'll take better pics of it with everything off for you to look at. wish me luck.
Another VL Driver
Sea Dogs Champion!
i rekon it could just b the seal... the seat is the bearing seat where the outer race sits on the Axle flute on the diff/axel housing(outter race wall on the bearing) then the seal sits after the bearing in the same area so the diff oil is trapped in the axle/diff housings. Have a look on page 2 of "My Ride" to c what im on about with the seals and bearing on the axles
Last edited by detox_nath83; 11-04-2011 at 11:30 PM.
I think i can see what your talking about in those pics i was just wondering which part the collar is.. I should be looking at the diff tomorrow morning and i'll remove all that stuff as you said. since i'll need new pads anyway i was wondering if vt rear calipers will bolt straight up the the vlt diff? and if there is any benefit ie; larger piston area?? just wondering because i have 3 sets in the shed. and i was wondering what brake lines did you use?
Another VL Driver
Sea Dogs Champion!
i got the flex hoses from the vn i sourced my rear setup from and put them on. just screws in to the existing brake line. the vt upgrade u need adapter plates on the fronts as they r larger calipers and twin piston. dont really know about the rears. do a search heaps of ppl have done it. better braking man for sure but u should upgrade your booster and master cylinder if u go the vt brake upgrade
in the pic there is the rubber seal (black) then the bearing (middle)then the collar(pressed on)
yeah man i already have a vt booster and master cylinder ready once i get all the conversion parts i was just wondering if the rears were an exception and would bolt straight up. i'll check it out but it can wait.. and thanks for explaining the above i appreciate it. pics will be up tomorrow if all goes to plan.
Another VL Driver
Sea Dogs Champion!
hey man no worries hope all goes well let us know what u do.
Ok well i pulled apart the diff today with the help of the guy selling it. Just pulled off the cover to check the gears (pretty tight with not much backlash and didnt seem to be any metal filings in oil) and pulled off the calipers rotors and took out the axel on the side that went up the gutter first (only bent side).
You might not be able to tell from the pics but the plate on the end of the axel housing is bent a little bit you can tell more when the disc is on because of the gap between it and the diff is smaller at the bottom of the disc and bigger at the top. The guy has bought a brand new axel and bearings however the bearings got wrecked because of the ends of the diff being bent and chewing them out again. I checked everything and the only part that is bent is that plate with the 4 bolt holes on the end of the axel housing. So what i want to know is can i take it to a diff shop and get them to check it with a square or something then heat it up and bend it back to where it should be and re measure it?? this shouldnt really weaken it should it.. pics are coming
Last edited by 88-SERIES200; 12-04-2011 at 10:12 PM.
from the pics where i have taken off the rotors you can see how the gap isnt the same between the hub and the plate behind it (axel being straight and plate not being straight).
Anyone know if if this centre is a lsd?
Last edited by 88-SERIES200; 13-04-2011 at 12:45 PM.
Ok well its going to be easier to swap all the stuff from the damaged diff into a na housing and convert to disc so im getting that done for $130 + seals just need one new rotor and pads before i start.
Another VL Driver
Sea Dogs Champion!
nice man.. sorry have not been on.. been moving and sussing my net out...
I was gonna suggest that from your pics and info u stated.. i would do that as well.. changing housings..
good to c u got it sorted. let us know how it all goes
no worries man. As long as its true what the guy says about putting in the new axle after the accident which is what it looks like everything should work fine i just have to find a vl handbrake cable. Yesterday i got some ultra premium bendix pads 2 for 1 from supercheap. I got vt for the front and vl for the rear only came to $73 i also enquired about rotors and they said vl turbo are the same as na rotors.. true? im also saving for a complete braided brake line kit from HEL which is $185 then im going to put in my vt booster once i get the line fittings and custom bracket and then put the vt front calipers once i pay for the rip off hub adapter kit
Another VL Driver
Sea Dogs Champion!
the turbo front rotors are larger man forgot the dimensions though 290mm??
Yeah thats what i thought pretty sure thats right but at the time i was talking about rotors for the rear since im getting vt calipers on the front. i can understand if the rears are the same as non turbo though.
would you even bother with slotted on the rear or just get standard and get slotted on the front?.. because i'll already have the vt master and booster to assist braking
Another VL Driver
Sea Dogs Champion!
your call man... i got slotted fronts and non-slotted on the rear...
same size on rears
just scored a free diff housing off the guy i got the diff off plus only had to pay him $50 for the vl turbo diff. Also got with it a whiteline adjustable panhard rod and vlt manual tailshaft.
I want to look into getting any rust on axle hubs and diff housing sandblasted while its all out then paint the lot and put together with new seals, bearings, discs, pads, braided lines. so now i just have to work out a safe way to remove the centres from both diffs and im on my way.
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