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Thread: start ya bastard

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    Default start ya bastard

    okie dokie.

    bought another vl, its on dual fuel, runs PERFECT on gas, doesnt like petrol much. Was running like a dog on fuel and now wont run on fuel at all.

    Checked the afm and it was set down to 255 and had silicone over the adjuster screw so ripped the silicone out and whacked it up to 383ish.

    The intank pump tested fine so i flushed out all the old crap fuel and put fresh stuff in and the intank pump shit it self, so whacked in a new pump and filter, plenty of fuel getting to the engine now.

    Nackerz and I thought the injectors might be the gremlin so they were replaced with ones that we know were working, still a no go.

    There is strong spark on all cylinders.

    The injectors are getting power on 1 side and pulsing power on the other.

    It IS switching from gas to fuel.

    Haven't had a car with fuel for a while so i'm a bit rusty in the area.

    Im getting to the point of taking to it with a match.

    Any ideas?

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    note: have also run diagnostic and it gives fault code for afm, except when we unplugged the afm and slapped the multimeter on, it gave a reading and adjusted properly, anyone know of any other ways to test the afm?

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    Quote Originally Posted by aussie_macca View Post
    okie dokie.

    bought another vl, its on dual fuel, runs PERFECT on gas, doesnt like petrol much. Was running like a dog on fuel and now wont run on fuel at all.

    Checked the afm and it was set down to 255 and had silicone over the adjuster screw so ripped the silicone out and whacked it up to 383ish.

    The intank pump tested fine so i flushed out all the old crap fuel and put fresh stuff in and the intank pump shit it self, so whacked in a new pump and filter, plenty of fuel getting to the engine now.

    Nackerz and I thought the injectors might be the gremlin so they were replaced with ones that we know were working, still a no go.

    There is strong spark on all cylinders. Knows this for sure as he got zapped while I was on the phone haha

    The injectors are getting power on 1 side and pulsing power on the other.

    It IS switching from gas to fuel.

    Haven't had a car with fuel for a while so i'm a bit rusty in the area.

    Im getting to the point of taking to it with a match.

    Any ideas?
    added a little something^^^

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    "Knows this for sure as he got zapped while I was on the phone haha"

    Just had to mention that bit didnt ya lol

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    u adjust the afm when its plugged in man dont unplug it(needs to read hot wire resistance when powered)..... pull back the rubber boot and put the probes on 1(closest to airbox) and 3 multimeter on volts and set it to 3.6V ignition on...

    r u getting fuel to the rail pull of the top fuel hose and put it in a bottle and turn your ignition on should prime for 3-5 seconds..... did fuel enter the bottle at a steady flow rate...??

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    pulled off the return line and primed it, came out with a pretty decent flow, and with the dual fueling, no, its not, makes no difference with the gas shut off at the tank. will try the different afm test.

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    not the return line macca the main fuel inlet.... that rules out the fuel problem... and u got spark......its ok shauna said it was fine.....

    fuel is not getting from rail through injectors otherwise its would fire..... sooooo

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    tested afm.....the plug closest to the airbox is 6 not 1....plugs 6-4 had 3.5v .....plugs 1(furthest from the air box)-3 had 1.5

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    and yeah i pulled the return line off to make sure fuel was getting through the rail as nackered said it couldnt hurt to check

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    im actually semi relieved im not the only person this has stumped so i dont feel like as much of a dick for not having it figured yet lol

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    TO TEST AFM:
    pull back the rubber boot on the AFM connector revealing the wires. grab your multimeter and stick the probes on wire 4 (white) and 3 (1 being the closest to the airbox) with the multimeter on DC voltage. turn the ignition on and the voltage reading should be between 1.26V (lean) and 1.32V (rich). this is the base setting and if it is out then the AFM wont be able to be adjusted to a satisfactory mixture (meaning you need a new one)

    and just for interests sake you can test the mixture by putting the probes on wire 1 and 3 with the key on and measuring the voltage. 3.6V is the factory setting which is lean, with 2.0V being rich. the mixture should be in the vacinity of 2.0-4.0i couldn't get the LED's to flash and therefore couldn't set it using the computer so i did it this way and set it to 3.5V (AFM resistance of 375 ohms) and then checked it using the computer and it was right, LED's flashing together.

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    Fault code may have not been cleared from a previous problem.. clear your codes and run another...

    unplug afm and try start the car.. if it idles its shagged

    well do the sums.... fuel is at rail(Is it blocked) pull and injector off does fuel come out the barb on the rail?.... if not

    Not getting past injectors.... so its either pulse from ecu or injectors. is the fuel reg not crushed and restricting fuel ?? weird one u have

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    well thats the thing...car starts and runs fine on gas...but i dont think gas uses the afm as the turbo i just sold nackerz never had one....cant start it on fuel so i cant test if the afm stalls it when unplugged. Oh and as for the above test...it had 1.21v on 3-4

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    now just for shits and giggles, is there a way to rip an injector off without pulling the manifold off again cos i really cant say i enjoy that job

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    nah thats a fair call man dont do all that again... weird problem man.... what a pain... run it on gas only...LOL

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