Dash Brake Warning Light coming on..

[evBenji]

So when the need to hit the brakes kinda hard, the brake light is coming on the dashboard.

Am weeping battery fluid somewhere from the reservoir area too

Am i safe.

What could be wrong what could i adjust.

Probably looking to go to wreckers to replace parts (which ones?)

Thanks for any help.

[jatsvl]

brake light on dash, indicates your brakes are faulty, low brake fluid? would indicate brake pad and/or shoes are due to be replaced or leaking brake cylinders or calipers (look for wet patches on the inside of your wheels after it has sat overnight) or a brake booster/vacuum leak.
brake light on is not safe, this must be rectified.

well the battery is just in front of the reservoir, what is telling you it is battery fluid leaking? tell us more info.

[Hangman]

The brake warning light only tells you if the pressure drops ie, leaking fluid. It doesn't tell you your discs/pads need replacing.

The switch is in the proportioning valve in the engine bay. Not sure if this is part of the master cylinder on the VL. Someone will know.

[jatsvl]

if your fluid level has dropped it would indicate a leak or low pads/shoes.

[Sabbath']

Probably best to replace with new parts than getting second hand parts from a wrecker. Especially with brakes.

[Hangman]

if your fluid level has dropped it would indicate a leak or low pads/shoes.

I've seen neglected brakes, but I've never seen them cause the brake light to come on. Fluid level dropping is different to losing pressure.

As Sabbath said, better off using new parts for brakes.

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

VL's have a notoriously low pedal at the best of times. If you have a fluid leak at the master cylinder, it is buggered, replace it. If the master cylinder is bypassing this would cause the pedal to go even lower and make the brake light come on.

[evBenji]

Hey guys awesome replies...

jatsvl

I meant to say 'brake fluid' leaking around reservoir

I think the pads are ok, last time mechanic checked said theyre good and getting no jolting or bouncing when brakes on

what & where is the brake booster/vacuum??


Not_An_Abba_Fan
Yeah ur spot on there, mine always takes about half a metre of applying foot to brake before brakes lock on. My old mans ford is about 3cm lol

Which is the master cylinder? the large black cylinder/bowl type looking thing or the grey ugly looking gadget below the brake fluid reservoir?

The gadget below the reservoir is what im looking for at the wreckers. I wouldnt get second hand brake pads etc

In general
Its likely something going on around the reservoir area. theres leakage etc and the warning light only comes on when the brakes are hit hard/suddenly

I swear its just a washer leaking or something, just not keen to pay 400 bucks for what could be just a simple thing.

Theres gotta be some sneaky thing i could tune up and this could swiftly go away

Usual story wif my car, most times its just a plug hanging half way off or an old wire needing attention and then its back to immaculate

what could i tighten around the reservoir

cheers guys

[calais24/7]

This happened to my vl, i had lost pretty much all of the feel in the pedal. It ended up being my brake booster. Turn your car on and let it idle. Then push the brakes in, you should hear a change in rpm, (the booster using the vacuum) If you can't then it's probably your brake booster

[evBenji]

wheres the brake booster mate?

[Hangman]

The big round thing the master cylinder bolts on to.

[jatsvl]

and the vacuum is the big black hose attached to it.

[evBenji]

just saw on ebay it looks like its all one part grrr

master cylinder >> joins >> brake booster >> joins >> vacuum

maybe the resevior is on loose and its just dripping and all is fine lol

[detox_nath83]

could be faulty low oil sensor.... Bottom of master cylinder reservoir.. its not one piece either,master cylinder bolted to the brake booster ... all i can say is dont skimp on brakes they save your life.. so get it checked if ur no competent. its not a hard job quite easy actually but get it rectified...

tighten the bolts on the master cylinder.. there is a small o-ring around the master to the brake booster which could b leaking,,,, if this is leaking basically its the o-rings on the master shaft which u can buy rebuild kits for...
soooo goodluck man let us know

[Hangman]

all i can say is dont skimp on brakes they save your life.. so get it checked if ur no competent. its not a hard job quite easy actually but get it rectified...

Can't stress that enough. Don't #### with it if you're not sure. As said it's not a hard job, but it's not one you want to get wrong.

[jatsvl]

as above have said^^^^ if your not confident DO NOT MESS WITH IT! tighten it up and see if that solves your issue,
but from your description , it sounds like the "O" ring between the master cylinder and the booster is STUFFED. and requires replacing.
make sure you know the exact problem before you start buying parts you do not need, that's why you ask questions, get answers, check it out, ask more questions, check it out until you are sure you know the cause.
THEN ask us how to fix it, MOST OF US are happy to point you in the direction of a HOW TO.

[calais24/7]

No, brake booster is seperate mate, big black circle looking thing lol. and if it is the booster and you go to find a second hand one, make sure that the brake pedal wasnt pushed down without everything connected, it will fk it, and it won't work. like everyone has said, don't be a tightarse with the brakes. They are one of the most important parts on the car. Not having a go or critising just saying goodluck

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

All that O ring is for is to stop shit getting into the master cylinder. The seals inside the master cylinder are what stops the fluid from coming out.

The VL does not have a low fluid warning light, the plug on the master cylinder is what triggers the brake warning light. It is a switch that trips when the piston goes in too far.

Simple test, start the car and push your foot on the brake with moderate pressure, if the pedal goes all the way to the floor slowly, then the master cylinder is bypassing and needs replacing. If not then try this, with the car off, pump the brake 2 or 3 times, then release it, this gets rid of any vacuum in the booster, then put your foot on the brake and start the car. The pedal should sink a bit and feel a bit softer, this tells you the booster is working. If it stays hard, you have a vacuum leak, or the valve is stuffed that attaches the hose to the booster, or the booster is stuffed.

If you have fluid leaking down the booster out of the back of the master cylinder, the master cylinder is stuffed and needs replacing.

[m1lky]

Might pay to clean the master cylinder and try to work out exactly where it's leaking from.

Have you tried checking the master cylinder is full and bleeding your brakes? Air in the system will cause extra pedal travel