Low/Near stalling revs when stopped. Also Computer results.

[87RB30VL]

Ok so I noticed yesterday that after reversing down my driveway, & going from reverse to drive (I have an auto), the dash lights flashed on and off real fast as if to say that the car stalled for a second. Thinking nothing of it, I drive off, and come to a T intersection. Now, while still in D, foot on the brake, my car starts dropping revs down to near 300 - 500rpm, and sounding as if it's going to stall. After I drive off, however, it's pretty fine, until I come to another set of lights, and same thing. So today, I pull over into a park near my place and suss it out, and while idling in park, it sounds like the revs drop, then raise slightly, then drop, imagine when your car runs out of fuel or when your fuel filter is blocked, but I only recently got a brand new pump and filter installed by my mechanic, so that couldn't be the problem.

Also, upon reversing out of the carpark space at the park, the revs sounded fine but then she just stalled completely, which is odd for an auto. After that, she started up fine and driving to my parents was fine also.

I have no residue or moisture under my dizzy, so I thought I'd try a self diagnostics test with the computer. Here's where I got confused. I followed instructions given on BoostCruising [Self Diagnostic Test for VL Commodore Engine Management], saying to turn the dial this way, turn ignition on, turn it this way, etc etc & then count the numbers. The numbers that kept repeating were these:

13, 14, 21, 23, 24, 31

According to Boost, the numbers correspond to these:

11:- Crank Angle Circuit
12:- Air Flow Meter Circuit
13:- Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit
14:- Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit
21:- Ignition Signal Circuit
23:- Throttle Switch Circuit
24:- Neutral Switch Circuit
31:- Satifactory Operation (non air-con vehicles) OR Air-conditioner Circuit
32:- Starter Singnal Circuit
34:- Detonation Sensor Circuit (turbo models)
44:- Satisfactory Operation (air-con vehicles).

So, I have no idea what my car is telling me when it keeps repeating 13, 14, 21, 23, 24, 31. Does this mean that because the last number was 31, my car is fine? I do have fully functional factory Air Conditioning as well.

Also, I thought it could be my coils, as in the Silvia I had, it was showing lack of power when taking off, near-stalling idle etc and apparently I had to get 2 new coils, but a Silvia isn't a VL so I thought I'd ask here first as I can't afford to spend more money getting this checked out if I don't have to. I also noticed some black smoke from the exhaust, but only for a few seconds after pulling up at my parents. I know this is a sign of running rich, but how would I have caused that? I haven't done anything new, apart from most recently, getting my radiator holes patched up & bleeding the cooling system. The brand new fuel pump, and also new fuel filter [Done with the pump] were fitted about a month ago.

Sorry for the novel, but I'd rather add as much detail as I can while I still shovel through the forums.

Additional info: RB30 NA, no mods, Auto transmission, had 160,xxxkms when bought, has about 176,xxxkms now. Had new alternator fitted shortly after purchase. Been major serviced shortly after purchase with no major faults. Does a lot of highway/70km+ speeds, fair few km's a day driving, overheated recently due to radiator hole [temps got to about 90 on my aftermarket gauge before pulling over, usually sits at 75 - 80 degrees/mid on stock temp gauge].

[detox_nath83]

all good u can cancel a few of those as in press the throttle to the floor and let off this will cancel Throttle code (23)

14 car needs to move over 10kmh to cancel this so dont worry

21 could be CAS causing an error code

24 move your gear selector to drive reverse park etc. this cancels this code.

so your problems lie within either your CTS which is possible. try another. and could be why your car is running rich...

some of these codes could be stored from previous problems so erase the codes and start again to get more accurate reading.,,

to me your problem sounds more like AFM is starting to fail

Or your AAC valve is blocked/sticky.. give it a clean

Coils??? VL has 1

[87RB30VL]

Friggin' double post >.<

[87RB30VL]

all good u can cancel a few of those as in press the throttle to the floor and let off this will cancel Throttle code (23)

14 car needs to move over 10kmh to cancel this so dont worry

21 could be CAS causing an error code

24 move your gear selector to drive reverse park etc. this cancels this code.

so your problems lie within either your CTS which is possible. try another. and could be why your car is running rich...

some of these codes could be stored from previous problems so erase the codes and start again to get more accurate reading.,,

to me your problem sounds more like AFM is starting to fail

Or your AAC valve is blocked/sticky.. give it a clean

Coils??? VL has 1

Yeah I went through the cancellation process after wards, just so when I do another check it will be fresh. It was also set to "Idle" [Turned vertical / 6 - 12 o'clock], is this the standard setting for it?

Funny thing, my air sensor [Black plug connected near my filter box] is actually held on with 2 Zip ties, it was like that when I bought it, so I might cut them off and have a look at it to see if it's being held on wobbly etc.

Also, my temp sensor [Connected to the bleed valve with grey wire coming off it?] is wobbly as we had to undo the bolt to bleed the cooling system, and these issues have only risen after I got the new radiator in, and it looked pretty loose so I might screw it in more to see.

With the ACC, can I just remove my intake tubing [That runs across the engine] and clean out inside the throttle body?

Cheers for the help I'll have to have another look and tighten/check all connections etc

These are the zip ties I was talking about:



I gave the sensor a tighten cos' it was really loose, also the wire looks frayed/in bad condition, is this for the stock gauge or for the aftermarket gauge the previous owner put in?

[87RB30VL]

UPDATE, upon tightening my temp sensor last night, I have had no troubles from driving to the shops and back!!I'll keep monitoring it etc but awesome! Thanks Nath for the help!

[detox_nath83]

Thats weird that bleed bolt u got a wire coming from it. is this aftermarket gauge still installed? coz the temp sensor is the 2 pin plug next to it..
and next to it (towards the head) there is a small sensor(this is factory gauge signal wire/sensor.

simple test to see if your temp sensor is working, idle your car at running temp.. unplug this 2 pin plug while car is running. in about 2 seconds car should raise the idle to about 1000 RPM
plug it back in and it should drop to about 700-750 rpm. if this happends your temp sensor is working fine


AFM plug is dodge LOLS, give it a hit with inox/wd40 and plug it back in...

mine does not clip on as my plug is cracked it just holds on my the pins/spade connectors.

AAC valve is the small round thing near your TPS man on plenum above cylinder 5 Unplug it and back out 2 phillips screws. make sure the pin slides freely.

[87RB30VL]

I'm just heading out to try out what you mentioned, so I'll post an update after I'm finished.

Yeah, the aftermarket gauge is still fitted. I dunno what colour the wiers are out the back though cos' it's mounted just to the lest of my steering wheel [Kind of underneath/left of steering column in a small area that looks perfect for a gauge lol]



Update: Upon pulling out the 2-pin connector, my car rose to [I'm guessing as I wasn't in the car] 1000rpm, then dropped back to normal idle rpm when the plug was inserted again, so that's good.

[detox_nath83]

so ur temp sensor is working... the gauge will have 3 wires. Signal wire, earth and power (for light)

does this gauge work man?

this wont cause any dramas anyways in your running problems. its something with your sensors.

common on the VL man..

give us an update with some info and ill c how i go

[87RB30VL]

Yeah the gauge works, lights up with my headlights etc, normally shows about 75 - 80 degrees at normal temp, that's about halfway-ish, maybe little less, on the stock dash gauge. I haven't got any Innox/WD-40 atm so I can't give my AFM a spray but I'll repost when I check it out, also still need to check out the AAC too.

Off topic a bit, my mate came over last night for a few drinks, and after hearing my car idle, mentioned something about my timing needing to be retarded, & removing the dizzy and twisting it this way and that way to give the engine a more, how can I put this, "Rarp, Rarp, Rarp" instead of a straight "Bssshhhhhhhhhhh" sound, you get me? lol It's hard to explain. Whether he was talking shit I dont know as I don't know much about timing etc and it seems like it runs fine to me so I'm not in any rush to mess with anything, except my belts are slack so they're letting out a god-wretched squeal in the mornings/when I start her, and sometimes when I accellerate from a stand still.


Also, since tightening that sensor on the bleed bolt, the car hasn't had any of the problems previously stated [Low RPM's, near stalling, stalling etc].

[detox_nath83]

u dont need to remove the dizzy man to set timing. just get a timing light and hook it up (power/Spark sensor on ignition lead 1) point the light down at the harmonic balancer and u will see timing marks on the balancer and 1 on the timing belt cover as the timing gun flashes.. each mark is an incriment of 5 degrees left to right. loosen the dizzy bolt and move it slightly to fine tune set it 15 degrees (factory).

could smooth out some running issues for u. i still think its sensor related though/. would be good if i could see it/hear it.

Where is brizzy r u man?

[87RB30VL]

Northside, up at Petrie. About 30-40 mins from the city depending on traffic/time of day etc. I guess it wouldn't hurt to suss it out, I took a short video which I guess will have to do for now, isn't the best quality but you can hear the engine etc, I'll upload it sometime either today or tomorrow

[detox_nath83]

yeah i know where petrie is near strathpine. in up on the sunny coast..

[87RB30VL]

Yeah that's it. Ah so you're still about 2 - 3 hours away

[detox_nath83]

HAHA turn it up .... if u drive your mums magna.... :P in maroochydore

mate i can get to strathpine in about 45 - 50 mins on the normal 110 speed limit.. its an easy run.

[87RB30VL]

Oh hahaha, yeah sorry I had my parent's Barina on the mind :P I was spewin' when I picked up my VL from Maroochydore, stuck in traffic on a week day at about 4:30 - 5, sucked Was an easy run home, though going up the freeway got a bit tight at times.

Haha, looking at your car pics makes me want to have a cooler poking out the bottom of my front end even more