best oil type and coolant type for vl rb30 n/a???????

[rb30vlsl]

best oil type and coolant type for vl rb30 n/a???????

[detox_nath83]

Hey man this has been covered before.

I run Penrite HPR30 20W60 and NULON Long life 100% concentrated Coolant but thats me..

stick to your 20W50 as the manual says for older engines and its recommended or HPR40 which is 25w70

there will b haters there will b lovers, so whatever u really wanna use man.

ppl swear by Penrite or Castrol or Valvoline or Pennzoil etc. Royal Purple is the ducks nuts but cost is excessive

[Jxw]

20w50 summer or 20w70 winter or if it's a high k motor, penrite is good or any decent name brand oil stay away from the cheap store branded stuff, even though it's made by name companies it's usually just not as good of a grade oil
pretty much any ethyl glycol corrosion inhibitor, personally i run nulon branded concentrate, i know others that buy the premix but i don't use it, change it when it's due don't run it longer than the package says as it looses it properties even though it still looks the right color, antifreeze/antiboil is pretty much a waste unless you live somewhere and the temp drops below 0, you just want to keep that alloy head from being eaten away

[87RB30VL]

I don't think I've ever bought coolant before lol, only time I have it in my car is after my mechanic has finished and tops it up with some coolant. I just throw water in my radiator. Come to think of it, it's probably about time I flushed my system and used coolant since I recently flushed my cooling system and just used water..

[vn_v6]

hahaha i did for a while, had a leaky radiator and used to just top it up, within a week i topped it up that often that there was just straight water in there, so i didnt bother anymore, until i changed to a billet radiator.

[Jxw]

I guess i'm in the habit of making sure they run good corrosion inhibitor after seeing the carnage like below from rb30's i've bought in the past, the downtime when it goes.
The annoyance of finding a replacement head in good nic (they're getting on in age now so that's getting harder to do), shaving it and fitting it, better to spend the few dollars on maintenance to try to avoid it imho.


it could be welded but i wouldn't bother, welding alloy is pretty tricky and finding the right type of rod to match can be a pain, 9 of the jackets are gone and need cleaning and welding, it's breached the combustion chamber in atleast 2 spots and 3 others not far behind, it's also been shaved before so there's probably not enough meat left on it to safely shave it again

[Jxw]

* removed *

[detox_nath83]

and that kids is what happens if ur cheap and use water only..

get a quality coolant and keep up your maitenance.

[Jxw]

and that kids is what happens if ur cheap and use water only..

get a quality coolant and keep up your maitenance.

lol, and those pics are of an n/a head, i'd hate to be repairing an et after water went through the snail if it was being driven hard at the time.

[detox_nath83]

if that much water got into the bores to make it to the turbo. bores would get hydraulic lock and snap some rods instead.

[Jxw]

bent rods, valves and throwin a leg outta bed, no more impellers.... ah the joys of fixing that mess, but hey if these guys want to run water as their coolant /shrug

sorry hijacked the thread to enforce how important running coolant really is.
Back to basic chemistry 101......
Lets starting with a cast iron block, alloy head and a copper radiator and add 12vdc along with thousands of volts from the ignition.
3 different metals with different ground potentials joined by water as the conductor/electrolyte.
Electrolysis has a field day on the alloy (especially at the exhaust side as it likes heat to do its job) as shown in the pics above being the weakest metal
you end up with important bits missing, eg $500-1500 missing from your wallet for an n/a motor, not going to guess and throw a figure for an rb30et........

[jatsvl]

op I use valvoline 20w50 as that is the MINIMUM recommendation there are others that maybe better. as stated above stay away from home brand oils.
also change oil and filter every 5000k's.

I have been using tectalloy but have recently heard that is very bad for electrolysis, I use concentrate. and make sure you always bleed the system by the book.
plain water is very bad and is doing damage that you cannot see or feel until it is too late. then you go from saving $$$ to spending $$$$$$.