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Just got myself a real nice VL Walkinshaw rep. running a 5l manual out of a 98 SS Commodore running a clubsport management system.
The issue is the batter is been moved to the boot when the upgrade was done last year so when cold the "Beast" (as my 4 year old boy calls it) starts well every time without miss. Get it up to running temp and it a whole different story.
It tries to start but just sounds like a flat battery, if i leave it for 30min, still sounds like a flat battery still but will start.
Car has a new (X large) battery, auto sparkie says it not pulling the amps when hot, standed problem with putting battery in the boot he said.
Looking at putting battery back under the hood, can anyone tell me why this seems to be the "in" thing with v8's and should i leave it there or move it back.
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Mates. Beer and COMMODORES that's all that matters.
Only advantage i know if is to improve the weight distribution from being front heavy to slightly less front heavy. However, that assuming everyone drives with an empty boot all the time, which is the part that i think is stupid. If you value your Boot space and don't want to spend double the price on a boot-safe battery BE A MAN and put it back under the bonnet. If u want this to be a track car keep it in the boot.
Edit : take the boot spoiler off too and you'll save a s_load of fuel and go faster too.... looks like that Walky spoiler must create a shed load of drag.
Flame suit on from all the Walky fans.
Last edited by greenacc; 07-02-2012 at 08:16 PM.
most ppl do it to remove the ugly thing from the engine bay or for clearance for intercooler pipes etc....
can u run a thicker gauge wire to handle the amps needed. could b something like this.
^ This.
Battery in boot generally equal tidier engine bay.
"It has been said that politics is the second oldest profession. I have learned that it bears a striking resemblance to the first." - Ronald Reagan
Now with my very own Tech2....YAY.
hmm well if the car was factory v8 there would of moved the battery due to your airbox sitting where the battery is. factory vl 5ltrs had them in the passenger side. factory rb30 in the drivers side
Can you check it for error codes. The car not starting when warm has nothing to do with battery unless the battery is stuffe some where it can't breath and is getting charged mega amps making it cook.
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
first Q Ryback is there a negative battery lead running from the block to the battery in the boot(like how the positive lead is running from front to back) or is the battery just earthed in the boot and the engine earthed to the chassis ??
i found this same issue with a mates car and once running a negative lead from the block to the battery(also have the block earthed to the chassis up front on opp side of engine) the car would start with no issues at all(even after a 20min thrash at powercruise)...
hope this helps u mate
Thanks guys this has given me food for thought.
I will have to see how this is earthed, before i go and change things as it could just be a little change to the earth layout.
Mates. Beer and COMMODORES that's all that matters.
If its only when hot it will be one of the following.
Starter motor solenoid is on its way out, Or (and im not 100% on RB's) crank angle sensor or hall effect sensor.
As mentioned above, double check all your earths, because that might be effecting it a little bit.
As for battery in the boot, it mostly gets done for clenliness. Ive done it a few times, makes the bay look 100 times better IMHO
I'm no expert but.
People move the battery for space in the engine bay and for a cleaner look.
If your having troubles starting it, Make sure it's earthed out properly..Maybe run a Negative cable to the engine (if you havnt already).
I was advised if I had problems starting it while hot that maybe I need to upgrade my earthing..(I don't have a battery in the boot though)
lol a bunch of others bet me to it.
Good luck with it man. Nice car btw
As above - the usual reason is for weight distribution and/or because there is not enough space in the engine bay. You will need a big cable to start the car as the starter draws a lot of amps when cranking. Being a VL you might get lucky and overload the wiring causing a fire and burn the thing to the ground if you have under spec wire.
Reaper
You're all idiots!! People do it because it's fully sick race spec bruh!!!! Put the battery in the boot for added 350HP, then wait for v-tec to kick in and you'll be ffullyy siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiick!!!!
Roses are red, Voilets are blue, I let off the gas & hear tsutututu!
My VL to VLT Conversion threadOriginally Posted by Troy711
its Brahhh lol
dont put battery in boot it puts out harmful and flammable gasses!!!!
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
VL Theorem right here.
My VY Berlina Build Thread - Mainly Stereo
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ure-heavy.html
problem sounds familiar.....
had a vn ss that once got hot it would not turn over till it cooled down.....put new starter motor in and it was fine like what one guy said up above
I hace the same problem in mu vh.same 5ltr engine.. If its cold starts fine once i take car for drive wont crank.... Leace it for fee hours come back and its all sweet
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yer its called engine heat soak. same thing in my old vk. did a reco on the starter and fine
uwishn you got any close up pics of the battery mounted.
Roses are red, Voilets are blue, I let off the gas & hear tsutututu!
My VL to VLT Conversion threadOriginally Posted by Troy711