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ecu diagnosis DAMN
I just fitted a stacker the other day and my missus took the car for the first time since that. It wouldn't start at first, left it a couple of minutes and then started first go. after that the car kept stalling (auto) and she had to keep playing the throttle to keep it alive. I then did an ecu diagnosis and it came up with code 11 and 14. crank angle sensor and speed throttle sensor. book says to fix CAS first as it sets off other codes. I reset the ecu with brake peddle and took for small drive and nothing happened. No stall. The CAS contacts aren't great due to water corrosion but not too bad either. I think the stacker issue may be coincidence. I hear the CAS are very dear. What to do????? The car used to stall cold too but changed ecu for chipped one and it stopped. started again, while driving though, months later. changed fuel filter and it stopped again. now this......could it have been the CAS all along?
:b:
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well i just went up the shops and nothing happened. but i don't want it to happen again while my missus is driving.
America just kicked in yo
If it is the CAS the car will die and not start again and the car will be stuck where it is, if you can clean the corrosion you may get another few thousand k's out of it, The speed sensor is a normal code to get when you start the car and it will cancel when the car reaches a certain speed. The CAS is around $100 from holden I believe. And if you get some electrical tape and tape up the plastic cover around the wires nice and tight it should stop dust and water from entering the CAS.
========My Statesman 20's Mafless and 3.9's========
<<<There's a good present
i did it by the book, you are to drive the car (in diagnosis mode) over 10 km/hr to cancel it, turn car off, turn key to 'on', depress accelerator and release, put gear from neutral to gear and back to neutral. these get rid of speed sensor, neutral position sensor and another one i can't remember the term for (drinking). the others cancelled except speed sensor and CAS. supposedly CAS can sent off other fault codes. i just wish i knew for sure whats wrong.
America just kicked in yo
Which book are you using because a friend and I had this problem and the books were different in listing the fault codes, I had the gregory's and he had the Max ellery. and to this day we still don't know which is correct.
========My Statesman 20's Mafless and 3.9's========
<<<There's a good present
i have the max ellery too. i find it better than the gregory's
America just kicked in yo
I agree but this one was given to me but I rarely use it when instead I can google or come here to find it out. I had the max ellery torana book for my last car and it was excellent.
========My Statesman 20's Mafless and 3.9's========
resident bush mechanic
the cas isnt that expensive but if you dont have the tools and knowledge to do it yourself then it can be expensive due to labour costs
im not admiring your car im looking in disgust
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good to hear. some idiot told me it was really expensive and i was freakin out.
Have i got story's about that F*kin CAS. My car used to stall while i was driving, i would just pull over and start it bak up, all good but one night it didnt just start up again. so anyway it gets toe'd to Holden ***The holden dealers in my town Rip u off somthing fierce AND dont do the Job properly, Very bad reputation up here*** So anyway they replaced the CAS and the cost of the part was $167 or around that, and the labour i was charged was about $160 aswell. Thats alot of money to spend on a little sensor. So antway im drivin about 2 days later and the car stalls again, wont start. Turns out they Didnt screw the Distributor up tight enuff so it came loose and started wrecking stuff inside. That cost another $150 odd
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you didn't pay them to fix their damage i hope.
nope, we know the auto elec really well so he overcharged us and then we gave Holden that bill
building 5L VB TH 400
hey there djohn your car would look better purple
Projecting
The cas can be intermittent. Mine wasn't showing up as a fault code when mine was playing up. However thats what was wrong with the car. It would start and run really rough and it had to keep the foot down on the accelerator, but even then it was hit and miss and it coughed and choked quite alot.
Leaks in the inlet will also give you something similar to what your talking about, or a battery not gripping tightly enough.
If it is the cas make sure you get the bearing changed aswell, I think I've seen kits for 130 dollars including the upper boot with plug connector. I myself fell victim to rip off auto electrians when my cas went a couple of years ago.
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