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Upgrade Tips
For everyone to add tips on upgrading. don't put CAI, zorst etc. for people who have genuine GOOD tips. I'll keep this thread updated as i research for upgrading my engine. Feel free to disagree.
1. N/A runners have better flow than turbo ones but are longer.
2. The N/A flywheel is better than a turbo one as you can get greater clamping clutch kits than turbo ones. N/A flywheels are 240 O/D while turbo are 250 O/D. RB26dett are 240 O/D as well which is why greater clamping kits are available.
3. Lightened flywheels are available in 2 weights... 5.5kg and 4.5kg. they will lower your bottom end torque though but allow your engine to rev easier. they will NOT INCREASE rev range.
all i can think of for now.
PS. Can get new kick panel carpets Retail about $30 a pair plus freight.
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also don't run an LSD diff if you are pushing 500hp upwards as you'll kill it. Which is what i'm hoping to get. 500hp that is.
America just kicked in yo
Port matching the manifolds to the head will improve flow. Shaving the head will give a higher compression ratio. Balancing all the pistons to make them weigh the same will help the engine gain some balance and harmony (porsche and bmw balance their engines).
========My Statesman 20's Mafless and 3.9's========
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i'm told not to port match the inlet if you turbo the vehicle. you need to create pressure. its forced induction so not necessary to port match inlet. unless you keep it n/a of course.
Apprentice Panel Pusher
advance the cam one tooth, holden retared it one tooth when they got the motor off nissin (apparently) causing the valves to be open for less time. therfore lossing power
i was told this by a mate but not sure if its totaly true
ive also read on a thread somewherer that its better to get your cam regrinded then getting a aftermarket 1 as its easyer to tune and the aftermarket 1s for vls are not worth the money
My Rides
Project VEE EL
On the Build.... Full respray, Smooth bay, Clean motor, Turbo, Suspension, Brakes
Click on the link and tell me what you reckon.
Yamaha YZ250F
My 'other ride'
VY Ute daily.......Dumped on 18s
The Aussie PackMule
___________________________________________
SA JustCommodore Section
For Events and Local Stuff Click The Link Above
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i've heard that about the cam tooth as well. anyone know for sure?
yeah i was told buy a guy who has worked as a holden mechanic for 20 years that nissan set the cam gear 1 tooth out from factory so when changing a timing belt they got inreased one tooth.
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Another tip..... when increasing power with a manual box you should get a steel flywheel as the standard ones can shatter. Moly flywheels are shatter proof to 18,000 rpm.
Also heard you should use flywheel with pressed on ring gear as when the ring gear wears its easier to replace. i wouldn't have thought ring gears would wear often as there's so many teeth but supposedly they only wear in 3 places. The other side of the coin being that the pressed type are made of different metal to the flywheel so expand and contract differently to the actual flywheel and probably wear more.
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just spoke with PBR and they said that the VT conversions aren't very good as the 1" master cylinder can't handle it and makes the pedal spongy. they do a VN Grp A with corvette calipers for about $3500. Too expensive in my opinion.
VN Grp A calipers with 4 spot calipers fit straight on as they have the same struts and don't change your wheel offset. Considering they use the same pads as a VL n/a theres not much point except the rotors are bigger for show.
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well i just got a second motor to start building so i can do a straight swap. once my rego is out of the way i'm sending the crank to get heat treated. plus the block to get acid dipped and crack tested, tunnel (line) bored and cylinders bored and honed. the pistons (which will be teflon coated *hypertech's* i think) will be weighed and balanced. The cam will be ground to my specs and head work done. I'm thinking of not going intercooled as it increases turbo lag and not as streetable but that idea might change. I may be going a nine inch LSD with 28 spline disc rear end for $800 when the bloke gets out of jail. I'll be starting to strip the block tomorrow and will be throwing out what i don't need. Fingers crossed for me over the next few months boys.
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to save hassle when puting in a gearbox or diff, work out what changes to the vehicle any different gear ratios will make. i just found that the 9" LSD i'm trying to buy has a 4:11 ratio which drops my top end. this is countered by the fact i'm puting a five speed box in but will still rev @500rpm more at 100km/hr. this is no good for most peoples fuel economy but as i'm puting a turbo in it'll run the car at the start of boost which will better my fuel economy on high way runs. so the car will top out just over 200km/hr but i'll get there quicker than most cars on the road.
Apprentice Panel Pusher
can any body awnser my question, as im verry intrested in this and want to know if its true. so that i can do it ro am i jsut wasting timeOriginally Posted by VL Berlina 5speed
My Rides
Project VEE EL
On the Build.... Full respray, Smooth bay, Clean motor, Turbo, Suspension, Brakes
Click on the link and tell me what you reckon.
Yamaha YZ250F
My 'other ride'
VY Ute daily.......Dumped on 18s
The Aussie PackMule
___________________________________________
SA JustCommodore Section
For Events and Local Stuff Click The Link Above
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when puting an engine together weigh pistons and fix accordingly to have equal weights. check deck height for even compression.
radius' on crank can raise or lower oil pressure.
crank end float can give or take horsepower. get proper endfloat could give extra 10hp. same with big end gaps on V8s where 2 pistons run on the same journal.
There's a guy on ebay that does the PBR VN Group A kit for about 800? you need 17 inch wheels to fit over the 330mil rotors though
The cam advance and retard thing is a driveabilty issue..
The only way to make a valve open longer or close early is a camshaft, you could on a holden 6 or chev V8 by changing the rockers from the standard 1.5 ratio to 1.6 which would open the valve early and higher and later= more power..
I was confused now I'm just not so sure!!
RIP Peter (perfect) Brock....
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yeah but they wouldn't be corvette calipers. 330mil rotors are pointless in my eyes as the VL turbo 290mil ones use the same pads. and one extra piston doesn't make that much difference either seeing as they are smaller so surface area contact isn't really different. it just places pressure on the pad a bit different.
Yeah the 290 VLT/VNP V8 stuff is good but the bigger rotors would have to stop a bit better, it's much easier to stop a wheel from near the outside than near the hub
Apprentice Panel Pusher
yah and the size will help with the total amout of surface area to help with cooling and stoping brake fade
My Rides
Project VEE EL
On the Build.... Full respray, Smooth bay, Clean motor, Turbo, Suspension, Brakes
Click on the link and tell me what you reckon.
Yamaha YZ250F
My 'other ride'
VY Ute daily.......Dumped on 18s
The Aussie PackMule
___________________________________________
SA JustCommodore Section
For Events and Local Stuff Click The Link Above
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good point. i never thought of that aspect.
I have done the conversion, and my pedel is not spongy at all.
The difference in braking in my car was huge.
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maybe it was just PBR trying to upsell me.......
He he, I bet your on the money with that one.
America just kicked in yo
Companies will sometimes give "mis information" in order to sell you their products. I have heard good and bad things about the VT conversions. I'm just going to go with turbo brakes on the front and NA disc rear end. Will be fine for me and my NA as I'm not expecting to exceed 150 fwkw.
========My Statesman 20's Mafless and 3.9's========
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i'm thinking of going turbo's front and rear with adjustable proportioning valve to put an extra 10% to the rear. still debatable on fronts though for time being.
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