misfiring

[VL Berlina 5speed]

well long time no probs but ive got something thats just really ticking me off now,
when the car reaches operating temp it starts to chung a bit when in the rev range of 1000 to 1700rpm

ive resently changed the temp sensor witha s/hand one that lookd very good condition(almost new i think)
the timing is set to proper, by my ear and a timming gun to check
the afm is at 382ohms and in good condition
the leads seem not to be shorting/arcing out as i checkd them last night for visable signs of sparks
the o2 sensor is yet to be checkd (will on saturday), any tips for what to look at or signs of need replacing
plugs will be checkd too

any other ideas????

[abcent]

have you checked your dizzy cap & rotor button? they tend to wear out...
coilpack maybe?

pretty sure mines misfiring due to clogged injectors..more food for thought...

[groucho]

Ive only ever had my current VL and the CAS has died twice. Similar symptoms to yours. If the prob just gets worse that could be it. Also never assume a newish looking 2nd hand bit is A1. I once put 6 new plugs in a car ended up with a shite miss...... guess what dicky NEW plug.Me thinks that you can get the appropriate resistance figures for your temp sender then get a friendly auto sparky to check it(old one and new one) Hope you have a win. Let us know.

[VL Berlina 5speed]

have you checked your dizzy cap & rotor button? they tend to wear out...
coilpack maybe?

pretty sure mines misfiring due to clogged injectors..more food for thought...

yah ill look in the dizzy this weeknd for cracks mostier and worn points, ill throw my spare coil pack on too see if that is it,
yah i ran a bottle of injecter fluid last month might give it another squeez to clean the system aswell,

groucho you say about finding the right reistance for the temp senor? do each car have diffrant ristance need for the temp sensors?
the temp sensor i got was off a car that you pull apart your self at a wreakers(u pull it) and it was the cleanest looking one i coould find and it lookd as new, NOTE i had the misfire before i changed the temp sensor (thought that was the prob)

[Tree cutter]

Had a surging problem with my vl once. It turned out to be the speedo cable had a tight spot in it causing the speedo needle to move all over the place until i reached about 100kph. This was upsetting the speed sensor in the speedo. I replaced the speedo cable and all was good.

[broadtail]

well long time no probs but ive got something thats just really ticking me off now,
when the car reaches operating temp it starts to chung a bit when in the rev range of 1000 to 1700rpm

ive resently changed the temp sensor witha s/hand one that lookd very good condition(almost new i think)
the timing is set to proper, by my ear and a timming gun to check
the afm is at 382ohms and in good condition
the leads seem not to be shorting/arcing out as i checkd them last night for visable signs of sparks
the o2 sensor is yet to be checkd (will on saturday), any tips for what to look at or signs of need replacing
plugs will be checkd too

any other ideas????

sounds like same prob I had in my VL , replaced CAS [ crank angle sensor ] in dissy, problem fixed, auto electrician couldn't pick up on it until it really got bad and it really got bad! it got to the point it coughed and spluttered with any attempt to put even slight acceleration, went similar to yours for nearly 6 months then all hell broke loose, dissy bearing was stuffed and all the crap from the bearing helped stuff up the sensor. the crank angle sensors have been a known problem with VLs although Iknow of a few VLs that have not had the pleasure of such an hell. cheers

[VL Berlina 5speed]

sounds like same prob I had in my VL , replaced CAS [ crank angle sensor ] in dissy, problem fixed, auto electrician couldn't pick up on it until it really got bad and it really got bad! it got to the point it coughed and spluttered with any attempt to put even slight acceleration, went similar to yours for nearly 6 months then all hell broke loose, dissy bearing was stuffed and all the crap from the bearing helped stuff up the sensor. the crank angle sensors have been a known problem with VLs although Iknow of a few VLs that have not had the pleasure of such an hell. cheers

yah was talk with the old man and he says its got to be eletrical, how much dose electrisons charge for it to be done, 150 ruflly? and is it a bigg job or not really that big of a prob and easy enuf to be done at home

[broadtail]

yah was talk with the old man and he says its got to be eletrical, how much dose electrisons charge for it to be done, 150 ruflly? and is it a bigg job or not really that big of a prob and easy enuf to be done at home

sensor can cost up to $160.00 depending on where you get it, auto elect charged $125.00 cheers

[bangers]

the CAS is a piece of piss to change. If you do it yourself get the kit that has the plug as well and wire it up as they get moisture in them and stuff up. you can get a kit with the dizzy bearing as well cos when they wear they put orange dust into the CAS and cause premature wear making it stuff up again.

[VL Berlina 5speed]

all fixed now, i got a s/hand dizzy from the wreakers and was going to swap it but to only find out that it was missing the sensor disc
so i took mine apart and gave it a good clean blowing and whip at that it could,
the 'O' ring on mine was hard as plastic, i tryd poping it off with a flat head and it split in two, so new 'O' ring is on and all good now,

then coming putting the dizzy back in i forgot 2 mark the point of the rota when i took it apart soo with a little bit of help from a post by mag from b4 and car manual i got it running

no missfiring all perfect now and feels betta and bit more powerful (less lugish)

cheers to all that help me with this prob

Don't worry, take off the rocker cover and watch the inlet valve and exhuast valve on number 1 cylinder and turn the engine slowly. Look for the TDC on the balancer pulley , when inlet valve closes keep turning engine until the timing marks line up at TDC. Put dizzy back in so the rotor button points at where number 1 lead would be with cap back on..

And if I didn't explain it properly GET A WORKSHOP MANUEL as it's eazyer to do it than think how to write it..lol

the advance that saved the day