i hope somebody is out there that can help me, I just bought my vl bout a week ago and someone has screwed with the airflow meter but my car is hardly moving so im guessing i may need a new one so theres 2 questions:-
1. Can I Bypass the airflow somehow so that it runs just as good?
......OR......
2. How much will i likely end up paying for a second hand one?
p.s. thx for your help it will be greatly appriciated
how do you know its the airflow meter thats the problem? if the car is barely moving it could be the CAT is stuffed.
i have just recently found out that the airflow meter isnt the problem so im looking for answers to find out the problem.....so far i have been told it could be dirty air filter, fuel pump, sparkies and leads and also as mentioned in above post the cat been stuffed. so here is the equation. yesterday she was running fine slowly but surely getting worse and worse now the cars stuck in the garage i have no idea whats wrong and sweet talking the angel wont make her move so any suggestions will help and if possible please include a way to rectify the problem. thank you very much
yeh crank angle sensor. When my CAS died. at first the car would run and just stall while goin but when it finally gave up the car just wouldnt fire up.
so how much would my cas set me back? and can i do the work myself?
check for spark. if there is no spark at all from the coil lead THEN it will be either the CAS or the coil. If you have spark then it will probably be the CAT (catalytic convertor). When the CAT is stuffed the mesh in side deteriorates and blocks the exhaust allowing the car to only go 20km/hr if you're lucky, even not go at all. The CAS is easy enough to do yourself and is about $70. There are a couple of kits available. Just the CAS or a kit with the dizzy bearing and electrical plug. Best to get the plug too, you can get it separately. To see if the bearing needs changing take the dizzy cap off and see if there is orange powder inside the dizzy. The powder is from the bearing being stuffed and kills the CAS.
thanx i will check that asapOriginally Posted by bangers
still having the same prob guys, checked the dizzy and no powder at all seems to be fine, took exaugst off from just under the passanger door and no difference in the problem and the coil i dont even know where that is but as ive come to realise the problem more it seems to idle fine but whether ur in park neutral or a gear as soon as u touch the accelerator the car coughs and splutters and nearly stalls. How do u know if fuel pump is screwed? could it be fuel related and it seems that when u touch accelerator and keep it down a bit it sounds like its backfiring in the engine please help now im desperate and got the mc shits
have you checked timing ect
nope but can timing be good one day shit the next? plus im not sure if this could be a factor but is the fuel sposed to be like orangy pinky red colour?
how do you know that it is not the air flow meter? my old vl had the air flow meter go on it, and it idled badly and was very sluggish on take off and while driving. very expensive to replace though. mine cost $385 fitted, about 3-4 years ago.
could be the TPS. someone else on here awhile ago had similar problem and the fuel return line had gone all mushy inside blocking the line, might be that too. but me thinks it might still be the CAS, it doesn't put off a powder, its the bearing that does that.
maybe the valve timming jumped teeth or maybe check for fuel preasure could be a lazy pump
how do i know if timing is screwed or not? and pump is working and i thought if the cas is screwed then the car wouldnt move at all
My VL sat in the garage for months cause i thought it was stuffed. As soon as it warmed up any acceleration would cause it to stall. Took it to the mechanics and they replaced cam belt, fuel filter, airflow meter and 'tested the spark leads'. It ran better for a while but would cut out randomly about once a month. So i open the bonnet one night and see blue sparks everywhere. Changed the spark plug leads and fixed the problem for good. Paid $200 for a new airflow meter for no reason. Don't go to mechanics any more...
Oh, and they replaced the fan belt etc but didn't put them on tight enough so they heated up and glazed over from slipping so I had to replace them myself. And they were a holden specialist too.
Hey one more thing:
Theres a resistance test you can do on the airflow meter (with a multimeter). There is a screw on the side of the meter, usually covered by a red plastic thing. You turn the screw till you get the correct resistance with it disconnected. The details are in the gregorys manual for the vl i think.