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Thread: VL tuning

  1. #1
    Sabby's Avatar
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    Default VL tuning

    yo everyone
    any tips on how to tune ur vl?
    any comments will be appreciated. thanks

  2. #2
    adrian222's Avatar
    adrian222 is offline VL 5 speed now on 18's
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    do a good service on it and check your timing. check your O2 sensor. check your AFM.

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    Thats about all you can do, give it a good service, check your timing, make sure your plugs/ leads/ points are all in good condition. Then go for your life.

    Not much else you can do.

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    Holdfast is offline Donating Member
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    Well, the first thing to do to get it in tune is grab ya self a work shop manual.

    Then check out the VL computer in ya car.

    Pull off the plastic covering to expose the computer box thingy; crikey its got a special name but it just controls all the timing and good shit.

    Once ya got it off have a look at the little red and green lights, they callem diodes i think. red = 10 green = 1 so if the light blinks like (with ya ignition on) one red and 4 green that would = 14 if ya look up ya workshop manual it will say 14 is this or that. It will specify codes that are good or bad. so all ya do is go through the manual and do as it says.

    Ta get the timin right is dead easy. Just bung on a timin light in accordance with the directions in the manual and adjust ya timin.

    Then that's it. If ya car is basic and an old dads car like mine then ya will get about 600ks ta the tank.

    If ya need more info yell out as I've replaced plenty of Crank Angle Sensors, Power Transistors, and bearings in Dizzies so I can really ****in tune a VL.

  7. #7
    Holdfast is offline Donating Member
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    The other thing to remember with the timin light and stuff is to realise that you can advance or retard the timin by turnin the dizzy clockwise or anti clockwise.

    Just loosen the bluddy nut a bit, get the car runnin and just move the dizzy a tad clock or anti and listen ta the bluddy thing. get it tickin over well and listen to it sounding nice and re-do the dizzy nut up. Don't go movin things ta the extreme or nothin just do a little bit at a time.
    ya don't ned all that expensive crap to get ya Vl goin good. All ya need is a workshop manual and a bit of common sense. read about the timing and the timing marks; learn about ya car and then touh it.

    But don't be scared of it.

    Vl's are a young blokes dream; they got a computer, A Crank Angle Sensor and a Power Transistor plus a distributor that's easy toa assemble and disassemble.

    learn about the CAS and the Dizzy and you wont have probs.

    Check out where the dizzy should be positioned on number one cylinder and that's about it.

    I'm a dumb old **** and if I can get over 600k to the tank then you young blokes can; my bus ****in smokes most pussy arsed cars tuned by pros.

  8. #8
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    yeah best way ot tune a VL is first to drop a 5ltr EFi V8 or V6 into the engine bay lol
    Kain

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    Quote Originally Posted by darkmoon View Post
    yeah best way ot tune a VL is first to drop a 5ltr EFi V8 or V6 into the engine bay lol
    Kain
    Thats if you want to go backwards

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    the rb30e is an awesome engine, but i would love one with rb25de head.....mmmmm...rb30De

  11. #11
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    Default vl tuning

    Quote Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post
    Well, the first thing to do to get it in tune is grab ya self a work shop manual.

    Then check out the VL computer in ya car.

    Pull off the plastic covering to expose the computer box thingy; crikey its got a special name but it just controls all the timing and good shit.

    Once ya got it off have a look at the little red and green lights, they callem diodes i think. red = 10 green = 1 so if the light blinks like (with ya ignition on) one red and 4 green that would = 14 if ya look up ya workshop manual it will say 14 is this or that. It will specify codes that are good or bad. so all ya do is go through the manual and do as it says.

    Ta get the timin right is dead easy. Just bung on a timin light in accordance with the directions in the manual and adjust ya timin.

    Then that's it. If ya car is basic and an old dads car like mine then ya will get about 600ks ta the tank.

    If ya need more info yell out as I've replaced plenty of Crank Angle Sensors, Power Transistors, and bearings in Dizzies so I can really ****in tune a VL.
    Can you tell me where to look for the computer box thingy and the power transistors please

  12. #12
    Holdfast is offline Donating Member
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    The computer is usually called the control module, or Engine Combustion Control System (ECCS) ya can find it in the left front passenger side of the car.

    To locate the Computer just sit in the front passenger seat with your feet outstretched, your left ankle will be facing towards a plastic kick panel that has one screw securing it.

    The computer is behind this kick panel.


    The Power Transistor is bolted onto the aluminium body of the distributor. It's secured with 2 bolts.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post
    The computer is usually called the control module, or Engine Combustion Control System (ECCS) ya can find it in the left front passenger side of the car.

    To locate the Computer just sit in the front passenger seat with your feet outstretched, your left ankle will be facing towards a plastic kick panel that has one screw securing it.

    The computer is behind this kick panel.


    The Power Transistor is bolted onto the aluminium body of the distributor. It's secured with 2 bolts.
    Have located (eccs),taken off the plastic kick panel and can see a red and green light through a hole in the front. Do I need to take the actual metal cover off the (eccs) or will I be able to see the different codes through that hole. Thank you.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by naden View Post
    Have located (eccs),taken off the plastic kick panel and can see a red and green light through a hole in the front. Do I need to take the actual metal cover off the (eccs) or will I be able to see the different codes through that hole. Thank you.
    Do the lights blink to give you the codes? All I can see is one red and one green light that stay on constantly. Does this mean everything is good?

  15. #15
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    Engine Control Unit
    TO CHECK ERROR CODES:
    1. remove screw retaining the passenger side kick panel
    2. turn the diagnostic mode selector fully clockwise to diagnostic
    3. start the engine and let it idle
    4. watch the LED's flash (red and green), the red represents tens and the green represents ones (so if the red flashes twice and the green 4 times, thats 24). 14, 23, 24, and 31 should show
    5. drive the car above 10km/h, this will cancel code 14
    6. stop the motor and then turn the ignition to the on position
    7. press the accelerator, this will cancel 23
    8. put the car in neutral, then back into another gear, then back to neutral. this will cancel 24
    9. turn the air con on, then off this will cancel 31
    10. look at the codes that are now displayed, 31 means you dont have air con or its not working and 44 means your air con is working.
    11. any other codes displayed besides this means there is a fault in that section
    12. turn the diagnostic mode selector back full anticlockwise then turn the ignition off.
    13. erase the memory by turning the ignition on, then moving the diagnostic mode selector fully clockwise for 2 seconds, then fully anticlockwise for 2 seconds. turn the key off and the memory is now cleared

    CODES ARE:
    11 Crank angle sensor circuit
    12 Air flow meter circuit
    13 coolant temperature sensor circuit
    14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
    21 ignition signal circuit
    23 throttle switch circuit
    24 neutral switch circuit
    31 satisfactory operation (non air conditioned models) air conditioner circuit (air conditioned models)
    32 starter signal circuit
    34 detonation sensor circuit (turbo models)
    44 satisfactory operation (air conditioned models)
    hope this helps it is a guide that is in the second form the top thread

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  16. #16
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    got a tip for ya....clean the little contacts inside dizzy cap, they get white powdery stuff on em from the rotor button spark, scrape em with a tiny screwdriver, be careful though, they are fragile, also where the wire plugs to top of dizzy (crank angle sensor) do the same with screwdriver to contacts and spray with wd-40, crc... etc etc.....do this to all unpluggable wire connections to assure good electrical contacts...p.s. disconnect the negative battery terminal first........my nans r31 was runnin like a pig, done this to it, now runs perfect again, mechanic told her it was head gasket, ha ha ha, bloody mechanics, just saved her hundreds. another thing....make sure your battery has good terminals and contact, as bad battery contact will restrict the power, usually earth terminal is the culprit, make sure earth wire is not hangin on by couple threads too little things like this make alot of difference, i reckon anyway, some people will probably disagree, but try it, and see

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