just bought vlt setup
hey just bought a standard vlt setup both manifolds, turbo, injectors, ecu, feul pump, feul reg, water and oil lines, vlt cam, few other bits. whole lot basically. just wondering if it would be safe to run it all just as standard on a natmo motor? no intercooler and with the 9.8comp. what timing should i run? and which cam would be better to use vlt vl n/a? and also which inlet would be better? turbo or n/a? and one last thing how boost does the standard ecu run? cheers.
Use VLT cam, N/A inlet and runners.
You should be ok with 6psi until you get a cooler.
Go THE SS's
I was told that you need a series2 motor to run a vlt setup because of the oil lines ect?
Technical Geek
you are correct. the S2 motor used the turbo block standard with all the oil lines blocked off.Originally Posted by Dan355
Its a common miss conception that people actually use their brains before they speak.
Technical Geek
it should be ok on lowboost depending on how tired your motor is. the ecu doesn't run a set boost, thats done by your actuator on the turbo. standard boost is 6-7psi.
Run standard timing i.e 15degrees and if it pings under load back it off straight away cause you'll say goodbye to a piston or two.
use the VLT cam as stated before. afterall it was designed for that motor.
running without a cooler could be your downfall and blow a head gasket or two.
you'll learn very quickly with a turbo, if you dont do it right, you'll pay for it one way or another.
Its a common miss conception that people actually use their brains before they speak.
Projecting
I retarded my timing back to about 12 degrees, run the highest octane fuel you can find, 98 RON, 96 minimum. If it doesn't ping on 15° then stick with it.
Get a boost gauge!!!!! Can't emphasise that point enough, make sure it sticks to around 6psi.
And yeah, whats already been said, n/a runners and about 6psi without the cooler. I wouldn't even think about upgrading it yet, and you'll find that once its all in and going you don't want too for a while anyway, as the power is somewhat of a huge increase.
the car is a series 2 and its only 157,000km 1 owner before me who was an old guy. is te turbo cam bigger or smaller? if i just drive normal it should be right without the cooler then? well then it seems all i gotta do is wait for the ecu to show up then its go time. cheers.
You can get a cooler for as little as $160 now
ok so what size intercooler should i use? i do not want it to sit below the front bar at all. and how much boost would i be able to run with the front mount? and would i still run 12-15 timing?
An AVO stage 2 would be good, it sits slightly below the standard bar. Maybe up to 10 to 12psi??
Technical Geek
i'll be having my avo stage 2 for sale soon. complete with plumback bov setup. i'm going a bigger cooler
Its a common miss conception that people actually use their brains before they speak.
what size is the avo stage 2? how much would you be looking for for it? would it be possible to have it sit at least flush with the standard bar? just dont want it showing at all, and i'll be making it black also. one other thing i just remembered the whole setup is straight of a bt1 would that make it any different? would at least the ecu be chipped? cheers.
Last edited by hosedogg; 21-12-2006 at 07:39 PM.
Nothing would be different, there is no "chip" in a BT1
Projecting
Technical Geek
mine is bax
Its a common miss conception that people actually use their brains before they speak.
Technical Geek
for the complete setup i'd be looking at around 700 including bov setup as the bov retails at 550 brand new. just for the cooler setup about 400 which includes all piping, but you'll need a bov or get it welded. you have to slightly cut your front bar in the bottom of the centre but mines black and it hasn't been noticed once even by people i've told that its there.
Its a common miss conception that people actually use their brains before they speak.
VN28CN
running the standard cast pistons with higher compression, you will run the risk of blowing head gaskets.
Timing wise see how you go with standard 15, if it pings, you can run higer ocrtane fuel with octane booster but that means more money at the bowser every time.
The VLT ran a knock sensor also, i'm not but if you have the computer, harness and sensors, us it too help control timing/pinging.
Soon to be back on the road, Turbo VG.
Projecting
Won't need a bov, what are you talking about. BOV = WANK
Yeah standard 15 timing may struggle heaps, but you shouldn't have any trouble with head gaskets at 6psi. R31 skyline guys have been doing this for eons without and worries at all.
so if i run say 12 degrees of timing, no intercooler just for now and get a boost gauge to make sure it dont go over 6psi. would i be fine to just drive normally? or would i have to drive it easy?
Last edited by hosedogg; 31-12-2006 at 01:36 PM.
bump
sorry just need to know if i'll be able to drive the car normal without a cooler, and give it a bit of a boot every now and then? cheers.
You will, but dont do it if the weather is hot.
dah dut dut da dah
from memory no problem modified atmo
only question is oil line for hairdryer!
Research has shown that men usually sleep on the right side of the bed.
Even in our sleep we happen to be right.
Powered By Garrett
going to be putting the turbo setup on this w/e without cooler for now and run 10-12deg timing on 98 octane fuel. also i'll be leaving my non turbo cam in as the turbo 1 i have is a bit worn. what is the difference between the 2 cams? a couple of my mates have told me there the same. cheers.
I have a 1988 wagon which would be series II right?
So would my car have the turbo block?
Is it just the block that was used or the cranks, rods etc as well?
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