hey my n/a vl is playing up!!! weneva u drive it and be sitting between 60 and 100 at a steady pace it just looses power until u take ya foot off then back on again can any 1 tell me wat mite b the prob?????
maybe a blocked fuel filter
hey mate i tried that as i replaced it im thinking the pump coz its also a bit fumy but thats another prob again
check the fuel hoses near the tank, one shaped hose is no longer available, the recommendation being to use a long straight hose to replace it, however hest coming back can soften it, allowing it to kink and restrict or shut off the fuel until it cools and opens again
this may not be the cause, but all strange fuel problems should make you think of kinked fuel hoses that unkink when cool
What happens when it dies?
Could be early signs of CAS failure.
Not that simple mate. Mine was cutting in and out. Not showing up in fault codes. But that's what it was.
Hmmm could be one of several things, grab a star screwdriver and tighten all the fuel rail clamps, return fuel line clamps and fuel line clamps in the engine bay. (these are exposed to extreme heat and cold and can work themselves slightly loose causing a drop in fuel pressure. It depends what you mean by "dying" it will either be fuel or spark related. Also when were your plugs and leads last replaced? is your coil in good order? is your distributor cap worn or having hairline cracks? is your AFM working correctly? (unplug when the motor is running and if it makes no difference then its smegged)
I had a similar problem that wouldn't go away and it was truly a nightmare and put me right off VL's but am now starting to regain trust in it after a good 6 months of perfect reliability. My problem was the 2 sparkplugs under the intake were not replaced when a service was carried out and as a result it would misfire on occasion and usually die completely. No one could find what was bloody wrong with it and it cost me a fortune until Bresciani racing sorted it out on the dyno and found the problem.
The CAS bearing can become sticky when hot causing occasional failures too so they can "be on the way out" it happened to me as well.
Good luck with it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I had same Problems. Mine was the AFM check your computer codes.
Mine was idling fine when i go to take off it sputtered, misfired and ran like ****. Until I was moving then it was ok for like 10 mins until I stop at intersections and start again.
Possibilities: Blocked Fuel Filter at fuel tank end. AFM, Leads, Check Black Piping up to Throttle body no cracks, no air getting in through vacuum plug half way up or in the rubber Constantine part. Both Fuel pumps working properly.(Primer and Fuel pressure pump) Not a bad Batch of fuel. Spark Plugs/ Coil, Dizzy Etc.
Good luck
Nathman
if i start my vl straight away it only goes 2000 rpm and dies until i back offit will drive fine so long as i don't hit 2000rpm I have worked it out that if I get in turn the ignition and wait the six/seven seconds that the pump runs to prime the injectors I can drive it to 5500 rpm no worries
I've been doing this for two years with no problems I was told the intank fuel pump was stuffing up
IT HASN'T YET!
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If you get out of the car when its running and go around to the back of the car you can hear the internal fuel pump buzzing away, it will sound like a pulsing buzz or constant buzz, if it sounds different from this it could be on its last legs. The internal fuel pump does not like to work well with less than 1/4 of a tank of fuel because it relies on being submersed in fuel for its lubrication and cooling and can intermittently seize and start again for weeks/months until its fully dead, this happened to me and now I wont drive with less than 1/4 of a tank. Just treat 1/4 as empty.
Hmm well i might not run it to the red line anymore as i have just read your last post. oops Bah Ahh well still going strong Go the L
all I here is bubbles! one mechanictold me that that was also a sign the pump was dieing he also told me that it had the voltage but not the amperage and was possibly operating BACKWARDS???
. it still runs fine under 1/4, I don't doubt what you say I'm happy at the moment
and I'll wait 'til it does die
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The bubble noise is from the swirlpot as the fuel returns from the bay via the return line it gets dribbled back into the tank. My fuel pump is less than 10,000 km's old and has made the buzz noise from new. I've had bad experiences with some mechanics (ultratune epping VIC) and they always seem to want to make a living from you and always assume that you are a stooge even tho you know what you are talking about they still want to argue with you about what is causing the fault and replace lots of parts. Just be wary of certain mechanics and workshops. There are some great workshops around tho.
Yeah like everything - there is good and bad.
I would agree with testing your AFM, does the car run rich at any stage or are you using more petrol now then you use to when you didn't have this problem?
Operating Backwards. I think that mecahnic is a stooge.
Regardless of amperage the pump wouold not work backwards only if u reversed the polarities. Try a mates AFM inplace of yours. Maybe your crank angle sensor is on its way out. Or your pump is on its way out.
Goodluck
ucwepn,I have been toying with the idea that the bubbles must be air in the return line? just wondering if it has something to do with the fuel pressure regulator since the the return line runs from there and it has a vac/blow line connected to the top of it, and does it have a diaphram in it? I'm not sure how the regulator works!
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