You have no doubt seen my posts of things i'm checking in search of more miles per gallon or is it less dollars out of my wallet when I go to fill up. lol![]()
1st is b4 (look at the crud in there)
2nd is after (much better) also cleaned with throttle open full..
3rd a bit blurry but you can see where 3 leads are arcing.
4th fuel filter
5th temp sender 4 ECU
6th AAC valve 4 components the spring is missing..
7th A mod I use to do on 4 bbl Holleys is to take out the idle stop on the secondaries and put it in up side down, much easier to adjust if you NEED too!
8th Airflow meter checked
9th Ecu checked and fuel mixture OK
Last edited by mag; 18-04-2007 at 12:37 AM. Reason: more pics
I was confused now I'm just not so sure!!
RIP Peter (perfect) Brock....
you got me confused too
the engine temp unit and its electrical connection is very important as if not OK can make the ECU think the engine is cold all the time
Is it OK to remove the air intake hose at the engine and spray some carby cleaner around in there?
I was confused now I'm just not so sure!!
RIP Peter (perfect) Brock....
unscrew your O2 sensor tommorow Mark and have a look at it,
if you can replace it or at least get a wire brush and give it a clean,
this will help with your fuel hunt as the computer use the exhaust gas to calculate its performance and adjust acordenly
then just your typical checks, fuel spark and air.
filters and injectors are clean and at optimum, no leaks anywhere
right gap on spark plugs and condition of leads (as you have) condition of dissy cap points (clean and well sealed) and good working order of the CAS and cables.
right tuning of AFM.
but you should know that already![]()
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Glad I dont have an O2 sensor on my VL.
The condition of the outside of the O2 sensor makes absolutely no difference to its sensing capabilities unless the vents are blocked. In which case it will be stuffed as whatever blocked it will have contaminated the sensor so it will require replacing. The sensor is actually inside the casing and is about the size of an erasor you find on the top of a pencil.
Check the cat also, the best way is to take the car to an exhaust shop to do a temperature test on it, easier than taking it off and looking inside and risk snapping the bolts.
No problem. With the cat temp test, it has to be at least 10% hotter at the rear or its not working. Hotter at the front means a restriction, same temp front and back means not working, greater that 10% increase at the rear means it is fine. If it is found to be cactus then there is a problem somewhere that caused it and that needs to be fixed. Cats do wear out after about 80 000k's so bear that in mind when fault finding.
Have filled up tank and will see what fuel usage is like now!!![]()
I was confused now I'm just not so sure!!
RIP Peter (perfect) Brock....